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    I need an engine install tip

    I'm trying to mate the engine with the tranny and it just won't align properly. I've removed everything from the front of the engine that I can to get it more mobile in the engine bay but it just wont mate.

    Does anyone have any tips? I feel like I'm going insane.

    It's a GTX


    Nik

    #2
    Pull it out, put it together, then put it back in.

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      #3
      +2

      Working the two in the engine bay sucks
      1991 Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT AWD Bastardization/conversion
      1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo AWD

      Creator of the B6T Rocketchip
      www.werbatfik.com

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        #4


        A crow bar, a hammer with a block of wood, and some patience.
        1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
        1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
        2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
        1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

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          #5
          Fark,how did you get the motor out alone?Yeah,thats going to go in a lot easier as one unit.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by nickz View Post
            Fark,how did you get the motor out alone?Yeah,thats going to go in a lot easier as one unit.
            lol, it's just the bottom block. It's a miata engine so I needed to remove the head. Getting the engine out wasn't too bad.

            ... heres the tricky part, I built an engine lift pretty much for the weight of the block alone. I don't know if it could support more (how much does the tranny weigh anyways?).

            I'm thinking I might detach the tranny from the car, bolt the engine into place, and then try to reposition the tranny into the engine instead of the other way around. I've never removed the tranny so I'm not too familiar with it.

            It's just so frustrating because the engine looks aligned with the tranny but I just can't get it to slide in the last inch ... F'n spline just won't mate (more lube???).

            Comment


              #7
              You didn't by any chance loosen the pressure plate when you had it out, did you?
              1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
              1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
              2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
              1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 1st Gen View Post
                You didn't by any chance loosen the pressure plate when you had it out, did you?
                The miata engine I'm putting it was Auto, so it have everything re-attached. But everything's back together to spec. The alignment tool goes in and out no issues.

                I've probably burred the clutch splines slightly, so I'll probably have to file them off.

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                  #9
                  No you probably didn't "burr" anything(though it does seem like some things messed up after trying to install that effer)been there.Can you attach any of the 2 top bolts?That really helps getting a couple bolts atleast threaded on a bit.You can swing the motor a round a bit yeah?Floor jack under the the motor & or tranny,to lift here or there abit?

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by nickz View Post
                    No you probably didn't "burr" anything(though it does seem like some things messed up after trying to install that effer)been there.Can you attach any of the 2 top bolts?That really helps getting a couple bolts atleast threaded on a bit.You can swing the motor a round a bit yeah?Floor jack under the the motor & or tranny,to lift here or there abit?
                    I've gotten the two top bolts threaded in a bit, but then the engine just feels jammed and I can't get the engine tilted right to connect the bottom ones. I haven't tried a floor jack on the tranny ... that could be good.

                    Theoretically, if everything is aligned just right, shouldn't the engine just slip right in? Will the splines rotate themselves into place?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yeah try getting the floor jack under the motor if that doesn't work try the tranny,you tilt them here and there.Also not sure if you've tried but put a socket on the crank bolt turning it a bit trying to get the input shaft to mesh with the clutch disc.As mentioned earlier some times shaking the motor up ,down,this way& that way has helped me.The motor has to be "floating" or supported by the hoist to do this.Good luck.

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                        #12
                        It usually doesn't just slip together, the bolts you have threaded into the motor will help button it together just don't start reefing on them if there seems to be resistance.

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                          #13
                          When I replaced the clutch in my 4WD protege, I dropped just the tranny. That was the biggest single Pain In The Ass I've ever dealt with on this car, trying to fit it back to the engine.

                          When I bought the gray one out in Montana, and had to change the clutch and rear main seal, I just got a chain hoist at a local big box hardware store, and Craig and I used that. Might take about 15 more minutes to un-do wires and hoses, but it saves about 2 hours worth of pain and suffering.

                          Maybe try putting an axle into the end of the trans, and have it in gear, and rotate it a bit, so the input shaft splines move a bit. There's not a lot of play there, it's gotta be nearly dead nuts on.

                          I would never thread in any of the bolts, until I know the input shaft is through the clutch disc.

                          Just be prepared to have a sore neck, arms, back, and shoulders if you don't already. I think the AWD tranny weighs about 100lbs, give or take a few. Wrestling it around by hand, lying on my back on the cement floor (with cardboard for cushion of course) definitely wore me out for awhile.

                          --sarge

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                            #14
                            They won't slip together easily. I've done two motor-only installs on the GTX, and they sucked. You'll need someone with a wrench on the crank and have them turn it slowly back and forth while you and someone else aligns it. Big PITA.

                            The best method is by dropping the whole thing all together out the bottom. I pull the axles and struts out as one unit, then the jack shaft. Remove the radiator and intercooler. Remove A/C and P/S pumps from block and zip tie out of way. Unbolt the wiring harness from the driver's side frame / fender (the fuse block, etc.) and zip tie it to the rest of the harness. Undo the fuel and coolant hoses by the firewall. Support the engine. Disconnect prop shaft. Undo the motor and Driver's side tranny mount. Undo the 4 bolts on cradle. Check for any wiring and hoses still running to the firewall. Lower assembly. Celebrate with copious amounts of beer.

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                              #15
                              Thanks for the tips so far guys. Still no luck, although I feel like I'm getting better at trying

                              So far I've been doing this on my own, so a friend helping is next idea. I'm thinking I might have to do what BFMRGTX suggested. I really didn't want to deal with another heavy loose item that is attached to the car in many places just to connect 4 bolts ... but I might have to.

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