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Diesel sounding noises and burning oil!

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    Diesel sounding noises and burning oil!

    Hey guys i did search btw but heres my deal. I just bought my Gt about 4 months ago and just got it up and running about a month ago. Ive just now got it registered and insured and started driving it regularly for about 3 weeks.

    I bought the car off of this kid who doesn't know anything about cars and his dad who knows more but doesn't really speak english. So the history i know for sure is the kid over heated one time and cracked the head. They replaced the head but then after that they had some electrical problem ( which my mechanic fixed recently. The whole loom was all jacked!) Its good now though. starts first try. anyway they also said it has been siting for like 4 years. so now im driving it and it makes an odd sound i think from the valve train. Sound kind of like a diesel ( that's the best description i can come up with) at low rpm. You can hear it if i just tap the gas a little, and it increases with rpm. It doesnt sound like valve ticking though. It also burns a ton of oil at idle and while driving down the road. It eventually clears up but it takes a little while. performance is still there though. I hit the gas and it boosts fine and pulls good so i dont think its anything bottom end related.

    I changed the oil about 1000 miles ago and i checked the dip stick and it was virtually all burned up so i just put more in and the noise is still there. also my temp guage doesnt work so i dont know how hot its running and the rad needs replacing but i keep it taped up with coolent.

    I was thinking it was HLS needing to be cleaned or replaced. maybe seals too. Im hoping i dont have to do rings but it ill do what ive got to do. I just need to figure out whats making this odd noise cuz i its just not running peak performance like i want it to. Any help on this would be great> Thanks!

    ps its got 158,xxx on the clock.

    #2
    sounds like HLAs to me. if the oil burning cleans up a little better after you drive awhile id think it was your valve stem seals going out.


    '88 323 sedan, K-swapped..

    '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege - miss it so much..

    '01 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins - 323 hauler

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      #3
      Pull your plugs,and have a look see.Any noticably gnarly or odd looking plug(s)will give you an idea of a perticular cylinder thats having issues.

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        #4
        Thanks guys! Im going to check the plugs today and see whats going on.

        Is it ok to drive it if its the HLA's? I have my other BF I was thinking of switching over the insurance and driving it, because I was worried I would cause more damage if i kept driving it. Should I do that? Or does it matter?

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          #5
          My plugs I noticed cylinder 1 and 2 mostly 2 look pretty ronchy! what could this indicate?
          Attached Files

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            #6
            Also on a side note. My PCV valve makes an odd buzzing noise so Ive got to replace that, I know.

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              #7
              Have you checked the timing? Grab your FSM (or download it), and start cracking.

              You might as well expect the worst but hope for the best.

              I would check:

              Timing
              Distributor springs (replace if broken)
              Check the action of the dizzy advance mechanism - the advance breaker plate has bearings that will stick when the lube dries out. Clean and re-lube.
              Crank keyway - but only if you are experiencing sluggishness at low RPMs and balls-out fun at high RPMs.

              Do a leak-down test / compression test.

              Fix / connect the wire to your water sensor - located on side of thermostat housing, faces towards firewall... PITA to work with when you need to re-terminate the wire.

              Buy some Sea Foam motor treatment.

              That's about all I can think of at the moment.

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                #8
                I could check all those things but my dizzy is spankin new. When I took the car to my mechanic to fix that wiring issue he said he set the timing for me and checked injectors and everything. I did run some sea foam today and did an oil change and I also replaced the PCV which I can tell helps but isnt solving the problem. As far as the keyway goes, it doesnt look that wobbely. Im thinking its one of the HLA's it sounds like its coming from piston 2 and as you can see from the pic thats the nastiest one. As for burning oil maybe rings?? Valve stem seals?? Where can I get a good FSM? Thanks for the suggestions guys! Ill keep you all posted.

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                  #9
                  Goodness I know its been for ever but ive finally got the thing fixed up! I ended up taking it to my trusty mechanic. The car has been drive able but he fixed it up and now its running quite smooth. What he did was put some 20 50 castral gtx he tuned my mass air flow sensor, he said i was running to lean and he said i had a lazy lifter so he cleaned that up and now its running almost like a champ. lol.. He said i have a slight bottom end knock :s. One of the rod bearings is going. I wanted to replace the crank anyway since the stock small nose one is crap anyway. Im thinking i want to build the motor though. Weisco pistons eagle rods and balanced crank exc.. arp studs all that good stuff. what do you guys think? Any pointers on some stuff i might not have though of or just tips that helped you guys during your build? Im wanting to do it on my own and this will be my first build ever. I feel that i can do it but if there is any tips than give me a shout out. I know illl need the block at least honed. Im not sure i want to go and boar it much. I was thinking of just keeping it stock cc.

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                    #10
                    If the crank keyway is fine, then don't bother replacing the crank. One of the Miata guys had a good hypothesis as to why the crank keyway failure was happening, and he came to the conclusion that the alternator belt and the P/S belts were too tight. This would put a lot of strain on the end of the crank, and along with the bolt torque specs, and the other bits, would cause the failure.

                    But, if you are going to go all-out and build up the engine, then by all means, grab a new crank and oil pump and pulley.

                    I had a rod-knock symptom once, but I immediately stopped driving it and rebuilt the engine. Hard to do if it's the only car to commute to work with, but I had everything ready to rebuild and had a few days of vacation saved up. Not something I particularly want to experience again, but the job got done.

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                      #11
                      your knock could be piston slap,get under the hood and tip the throttle,if you hear a rattle that disappears immediately,good chance the pistons are gone.Never had a bad bottom end on a b6t(maybe 10)they're tuff f%$@&ers.The pistons do wear pretty good though,on a beaten motor.How are your plugs?That #2 cylinder is in poor shape by the look of that plug.

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                        #12
                        That is very interesting news about the crank failure. It makes sense. From what i can see the crank is fine no key way wear from the looks of it. I could def see the difficulty in having to rebuild your daily due to time constraint. Luckily ive got a my spare 323 i can register and drive around in in the mean time. ( glad i didn't sell that thing ha) But if i rebuild it im just going to go ahead and replace the crank then ive got no worries of anything going bad at some point. of corse it all takes money. I priced out all the parts to a grand total of 2000 to 2500 smackers. Hopefully it will hold up until i get the money.

                        As far as plugs go i need to replace them. Im still running those you see there. I don't know if a lazy hla could cause the burning of oil but if not im thinking maybe the rings are worn out. He did say that i has a little bit of a leak at the turbo but it wasn't that bad. Maybe that's my oil problem.

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