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    323 with fun little problems

    So im glad to find a more active forum finally to start helping me with some issues that has been plaqueing my 98' 323. Its the base model, so nothing fancy here.

    So let me start with some issues;

    First issue is some possible miss firing. I am still not certain if it is miss firing but it sounds like. Happens primarily one cold starts on mostly cold mornings; starts up right away and sounds like one or two cylindays is miss firing for about 5-10 seconds then completely goes away. After I let the car warm up and the RPM's go down after bout a minute, drives fine with out any issues.

    It use to do it before while I was driving on the freeway, and randomly. But found out my oil was horribly low so filled it up, as well as getting new plugs and it went away. But this miss firing seems to be for a different reason

    Second one is my seat belt, its broken as far as I can figure. Locked up one day and after fiddling with it, it now doesn't spool back up so I have tons of slack on my seat belt. Obviously this is a serious safety concern to myself and I have gone around junk yards and a place the specializes in older Mazda cars, and still found nothing. So was curious if anyone knew of a good site that would have what I need, and if it something I should take to a shop to install.

    Third and final are Struts. They are stiff as all hell and obviously dieing out, Les Schwab qouted me about $700. So alternatives? Preferably ones that are a lot cheaper, or is this a thing that is going to be expensive unless I have the knowledge and tools to do it myself.

    Beyond that I got new tires and a new CV Joint/drive shafts and drives much smoother. Transmission still in awesome shape and the clutch as well. Car has a bunch of electrical issues that are not major concern but I wana get fixed (Stereo needs to be replaced, re defrost doesnt work).

    #2
    The cold midfire. Is it accompanied by some engine rattling noise? If so it's a collapsed hydraulic lifter. Oilchange can help, along with switching to a decent synthetic. Otherwise, if the plug wires are original, it's time to change em out for either new OEM or NGK and nothing else. Covey's auto parts in Marysville is a good place to look for your seatbelt.
    Struts. I assume they''re original equipment? Stiff as hell typically isn't a sign that they're bad, it's the other way round. Wallowing soft. If you can push on a fender and have the car drop down some and then bounce back up but only once, the struts are fine. If the car bounces more than once, they're hosed, and if the car drops down and stays there they're really hosed (been there seen that!). Jack the car up and pull the wheels and have a look, for oil leaks around the struts or rust on the pistons. Replacing them is a thing that will cost bucks no matter what if you have someone else do the job. I bet in ol' Les' case, they'll spend 30 bucks a corner on parts and the rest will be labor. Good luck in any case and welcome to the forum.
    '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
    '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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      #3
      Originally posted by jay View Post
      (good advise snipped) Replacing them is a thing that will cost bucks no matter what if you have someone else do the job. I bet in ol' Les' case, they'll spend 30 bucks a corner on parts and the rest will be labor.
      You hit the nail on the head with that statement, I have to replace my front struts and was quoted a price of $800. So I ordered a pair from rockauto @ $110 for both and this weekend I will be replacing the front struts. I was wondering if I should take pictures of the procedure and post here?

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        #4
        I went to coveys for seatbelt but the only car they had in my year was not he hatchback and the seatbelt is different. Mine has a metal rail at the end it attaches to vs a loop.

        The miss firing sounds like a possible rattle, but i can't really tell. I will look up more info on hydraulic lifters, but what can you tell me about them, like how do i check them or replace them. or is primarily a shop deal and what is the expected price.

        The struts are probably OEM, I got no info from my father about the old owner, but its best to say they are. I hear poping sounds from the struts, and there isnt a whole lot of bounce to them when I push down on the hood it doesnt seem like it is but Les Schwab say they are leaking a bit, and I can see that.

        Im running off today to get my battery load tested and probably grab new plug wires, but they look new to me still but they dont cost much so i can grab those.

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          #5
          HLA's are under the camshaft(s) and cost 30-40 bucks each and if you have to replace one you might as well do em all. If it's just rattling some when it's cold and making a bit of misfire and it goes away once it's warm, I'd leave it alone. 2-400 in parts+3-4 hours labor. I certainly wouldn't pull the trigger on that one till a real tech has a looksee at the car for sure...
          '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
          '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

          Comment


            #6
            K if it can wait then I will do that, as long as i keep my eye on Oil levels and keep up on oil changes so it doesn't get worse.

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