Ive got a rod knock and was going to replace the bearings. Motor is stock. I just need to know what size bearings to order. I noticed on Rock Auto there were a few different sizes. Also any suggestions on the work involved would be helpful. Thanks!
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crank will likely need machining& the rod resized.If the journals look very good,at least plastigauge.Doubt it will be ok.Good luck. -
So maybe it would be best if i just replace the crank and all bearings? Im assuming plastiguage is the only way to know what size bearings ill need? damn i wish i had enough to just build it but i just dont have the mulah for that right now. humm...Comment
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And the bad rod,I would just replace the bottom end complete,Do you know why the rod shat itself?Curious,it's a SUPER bottom end on that motor as we are well aware of.Yeah, a crank & rod would work too,major hassle.Comment
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Ah man you think the rod is bad? Its not a really loud knock.
Ive only had the car for about 6 months and when i bought it it wasn't running. The guy that had it cracked the head because he over heated, so it has a new head on it but the wiring got screwy( dont know how) so my mechanic re wired the whole loom. so it runs now but it had a lazy lifter and made a lot of racket in the top end so i had him fix that up and he tuned it up. He leaned it out a little because i was running to rich. and on top of that it burns an excessive amount of oil. I think maybe the rings are bad. so it could be a combination of things that made the rod shat all over the place. lol Dam i just need to re build it.Comment
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I replaced the bearings with the same size that was already in it, standard size. I Lightly sanded off any groves and polished up the journals with some Emory cloth. I found out that getting the oil pan gasket to line up is the biggest PITA!... So i got it all together and it sounds like it hasn't done much good. it still sounds like its knocking..... (Sigh) Rods all looked straight. Mechanic did a comp test and said it was good.
I did noticed a hole and im not sure if its supposed to be there. If your looking up in to the engine from the bottom end with the oil pan off its the cylinder closest to the Trans (far left) There was a big rectangular hole by the oil feed line going up behind the cylinder and its pretty big im not sure if that's supposed to be there or not. Most likely not? That was the side with the worst looking bearings. If anyone has a pic of a good bottom end of a b6t that would be really helpful thanks!Comment
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How did the bearings you pulled out look? The B6T I had with a rod knock, the bearings were mushroomed out sideways a bit.
I wonder if it could be piston related?1991 Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT AWD Bastardization/conversion
1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo AWD
Creator of the B6T Rocketchip
www.werbatfik.comComment
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Nope they don't look mushroomed any. The two outer cylinders are discolored and warn and the inners are warn but evenly and not discolored.The ousters are warn more in certain areas with discoloration in those spots. particularly the cylinder closest to the trans.
How could it piston related? Curious, because its starting to sound almost like a higher pitched ping noise now. Almost like Valve ticking.Comment
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What happened? You replaced the main/rod bearings, stuck it back together, and you have the same noise?Comment
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Do you know what was causing it to run rich? Also what is the timing set at?
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.
1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon
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Hey sorry guys ive been busy. My ecu is chipped by gforce which ive heard runs kinda rich but my mechanic set the wheel in the maf sensor so that shouldnt be a problem any more but my concern is that when i did the rod bearings it still knocks. it quiets up when it warms to operating temp but you can still tell that its making some noise. My mechanic also told me that when he did the compression test that it checked out ok so the rods arnt bent. so im kindof stumped. I just need it to run good so i can make some power out of this thing haComment
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the rods also didnt look bent when i was doing the work either. any suggestions? Ive heard that pistons can warp? what are the odds of that? It has had a new head put on it from the previous owner. he over heated the thing and cracked the old one. oh and it sat for 4 years until i bought it about 5 months ago. : /
Not sure about the timing. Ill have to get back to you on that.Comment
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