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Preparing for engine rebuild 88 GTX

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    Preparing for engine rebuild 88 GTX

    Hey guys,

    I'm preparing to rebuild the motor in my 88 GTX. From what I was told by the PO it has low compression on 2 cyls. I have yet to verify this as I have been extremely busy with school(damn midterms) and work(Were trying to finish a '71 Chevelle but its taking forever)

    So my plan is to pull the motor send the spare head and block I have out to be cleaned and checked, valve job, surface the head, magnaflux etc etc etc. Then build the motor, new gaskets, new bearings, new rings and so on. I plan on driving this car for quite a while so I want a good strong reliable motor.

    My other thoughts are to add some larger injectors in order to cope with the VJ-11 that is currently bolted to the motor. The PO recommended 440cc units from an eclipse, he claims that they are plug and play but I would like a verification/suggestion for possible alternatives.

    One of my other questions are what is the best/most economical source to find a complete gasket set for the GTX? I know I should be able to use the gasket sets from the Miata but I would like to know if there are alternatives. I know Fel-Pro is an outstanding manufacturer of OEM gaskets but I have to ask the question are JIS, or Eristic worth anything? They are both found on EvilBay but for the price its quite a value to get a whole gasket set for the motor for ~$50. When I built the Diesel for my F-250 I picked up a Fel-Pro Head set for ~$120 but when I tried to source a head set for the 1.6 at the local parts house they wanted almost $200. And for my Small block I can get a complete rebuild kit for under $100. Maybe I just need to suck it up but I dunno, its been a very long day.

    Here are the links to the EvilBay gaskets

    Eristic:


    JIS:
    1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.

    1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)

    #2
    The inexpensive head gaskets i've seen on ebay are good templates for quad mega slurpee cup holders. Why cheap out on internals?

    Comment


      #3
      I don't want to cheap out on the internals, I just had to ask the question I'm mainly curious if anyone has ever used them with any type of success
      1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.

      1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)

      Comment


        #4
        I've used the Eristic kit on a BP with good results. Came with OEM style intake gaskets (some ebay kits dont and Idk if I trust the other style) , valve cover didn't even leak and I used some crappy RTV instead of the "Right Stuff" which is literally the name of the sealant lol.

        I never used the headgasket, or oil pan gasket though, it was just me re-gasketing an n/a BP.
        -Jack

        ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

        91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
        http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

        01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

        91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
        http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

        Comment


          #5
          My plans were to use all gaskets but the HG I was going to get an MLS gasket for that because I don't feel like doing the job twice
          1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.

          1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)

          Comment


            #6
            OEM Mazda head gasket. Felpro works good and is reliable for the rest. Use plenty of RTV sealant around the oil pan gasket and at the "lumps" in the valve cover gasket.
            "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

            Originally posted by neuspeedescort
            the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
            -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
            -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
            -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
            -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
            -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

            Comment


              #7
              Is it possible to pull the motor on this thing through the top or do I have to drop it out the bottom like an Fbody?

              Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
              1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.

              1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)

              Comment


                #8
                Yes you can. I just had to remove a few things from the block (crank pulley, alternator, etc.) to clear the pass. side framerail.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Okay sweet just got to the shop this morning I would like to have it pulled by the end of the day :D

                  Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
                  1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.

                  1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by trailrider098 View Post
                    OEM Mazda head gasket. Felpro works good and is reliable for the rest. Use plenty of RTV sealant around the oil pan gasket and at the "lumps" in the valve cover gasket.
                    I'll second this - dont use the cheap eBay style gaskets. Fel-Pro gaskets work very well, close/same as OEM quality IMO.

                    Are you running a full VJ11 or a 14/11 hybrid? You don't need larger injectors, the stock ECU can handle the VJ11. You will need to chip it though if you want to raise the boost above 11lbs, if that hasn't been done already. Stock injectors will run a VJ11 @16lbs.


                    -Rocket
                    1991 Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT AWD Bastardization/conversion
                    1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo AWD

                    Creator of the B6T Rocketchip
                    www.werbatfik.com

                    Comment


                      #11
                      As far as I know its a plain old VJ11.

                      Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
                      1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.

                      1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Also does anyone have any leads on a chip for the ECU in this thing?

                        Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
                        1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.

                        1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by chevyboy_0 View Post
                          Also does anyone have any leads on a chip for the ECU in this thing?

                          Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
                          I'm the only guy currently chipping B6T ECU's. Info page: www.werbatfik.com/ecu.htm

                          email me for more info. rocketman AT werbatfik DOT com
                          1991 Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT AWD Bastardization/conversion
                          1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo AWD

                          Creator of the B6T Rocketchip
                          www.werbatfik.com

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You'd be better off by dropping the engine and tranny as one unit. I've done it every-which-way, and this is just my opinion.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I pulled my engine and gearbox out the top on the weekend, not too bad. Just had to loosen the bolts on the cross member at the back and drop it down a bit so I could get clearance for the rear mount. You have to wiggle it around a bit to clear the brake bias unit and some other things but it went well. Sending it in tomorrow for all the engineering to be done.
                              My Hiroshima Screamer

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