Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Mobil 1 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy Oil

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Mobil 1 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy Oil

    This is a review for Mobil One 0W20 Full Synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy oil.

    The stuff is awesome! I used it for an entire season in my enduro car. Since its a race car, it is always full throttle, above 6000 rpm. I ran it against the 7250 rpm rev limiter for a few seconds each lap at a certain track last year when my clutch was slipping. Because it is so thin, it doesn't have any starting problems in cold weather, even if it was -10 degrees. It can also withstand the high heat of racing applications without breaking down at all. (I have put on over 500 miles of the most extreme conditions possible on it. (Some races were below zero degrees, others were 90 degrees out. One time, my radiator got clogged with mud and I pegged my water temp gauge. It's still good today, but I will be changing it as I don't want to push my luck by trying to run another season on it when most guys change their oil after every race. The only downside to this oil is its cost, but if you are looking for the best oil out there, this is it. I don't know if it actually does increase fuel milage like Mobil 1 claims, as it doesn't apply to me, since it IS a race car.

    But to the rating, I'm happy to say its a 10 out of 10. Awesome product, and will buy again.
    My family has lots of bg's!
    2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
    1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
    2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
    1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
    1992 Mazda 323: Race car
    1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
    1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
    Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx

    #2
    Ok, so not trying to hate or anything but because your motor didn't catastrophically fail your giving the oil a 10/10? There's much more to motor oil than how easily it starts the engine. I'm confident you could have had the same results with a cheap conventional oil. Until you get a UOA or take apart your motor and measure everything theres no supporting evidence that this oil isn't any better than any other oil. You don't know how much your bearings wore or what the additive content of the oil is(before and after) so basically my point is that there's no way you can judge an oil without a UOA or measuring.
    -Steve

    94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
    VF10 powered!
    262 Whp & 257 Wtq
    13.1@107

    '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

    Comment


      #3
      I know this is a very crude way of testing oil, but....

      My grandpa and I use different oils, but we both have the same engines. (identical modifications, identical replacement parts.) He has just installed his third engine, as he keeps having oil problems. His mains ran dry at high rpms and that caused the bearnings to fail. Both previous motors failed because the oil broke down/seperated. He runs castrol syntec 5w 20. I run mobil one. My oil both looks and feels like new, even after a season. You can actually feel the difference in his oil after one race. When his oil is new, you can dip your finger in it, and rub your fingers together with it. The oil runs off the finger a little slower than water. When his oil is used one race, it is VERY thinned out, It runs off your finger so easily that it hardly leaves a residue. When you try to rub your fingers with it, its like its not there. The fingers don't slid very easily. Not so good for an engine oil.

      Like I said, crude way of testing, but i could feel the difference.
      My family has lots of bg's!
      2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
      1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
      2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
      1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
      1992 Mazda 323: Race car
      1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
      1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
      Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx

      Comment


        #4
        Mobil1 is pretty good stuff, Redline is maybe better, and I've heard good things about Amsoil. The oil I'm using now is a German full synthetic called Pento-syn (freakin' 50 bucks a gallon) that my pal John gets for his customer cars. Mercedes spec's it in the AMG cars as well. What I've noticed is a total lack of HLA noise on cold startup, and a generally much quieter idle. It's what I'll be running in the rallycar once we get it broken in and the rings sealed, assuming we ever get it all back together of course. Main reason John is using the stuff is that in any of the cars he sees that run it, there's zero engine wear 'tween service intervals. Yah OK that's prolly good enough for me!
        '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
        '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
        http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jay View Post
          Mobil1 is pretty good stuff, Redline is maybe better, and I've heard good things about Amsoil. The oil I'm using now is a German full synthetic called Pento-syn (freakin' 50 bucks a gallon) that my pal John gets for his customer cars. Mercedes spec's it in the AMG cars as well. What I've noticed is a total lack of HLA noise on cold startup, and a generally much quieter idle. It's what I'll be running in the rallycar once we get it broken in and the rings sealed, assuming we ever get it all back together of course. Main reason John is using the stuff is that in any of the cars he sees that run it, there's zero engine wear 'tween service intervals. Yah OK that's prolly good enough for me!
          +1 for the amsoil... I ran that for a good chunk of 60k + miles that I owned my p5. The BITOG forums list it as one of the "true synthetics" out there (at least they did the last time I was on BITOG)

          To the OP, you might try something in the Valvoline line... the BITOG forums UOA typically yields desireable results.

          Here lately I have been too lazy to call my Amsoil dealer and have been just using the clean 5000 mobile 1 in most of my stuff without issue.
          The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

          Comment


            #6
            I ran the 0w20 over winter 2009/2010 in my B8 in my blue 4WD. I was having a hard time starting, and plenty of HLA noise. I ran the Mobil1 0w20, all winter and through plenty of ice races, never had a problem. once it got back warm enough, though, I switched back to a 5w30 asap, since it just felt like the oil was too thin.

            I use Amsoil in my corolla now. I used standard Pennzoil to break it in, then used Mobil1. Then I read that they had changed their base stocks and were hydrocracked, so I moved up to Amsoil. Expensive, but worth it in the long run I think.

            --sarge

            Comment


              #7
              yeah, I've been considering amsoil but I don't like the price. It's even worse than what I'm paying now.
              My family has lots of bg's!
              2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
              1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
              2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
              1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
              1992 Mazda 323: Race car
              1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
              1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
              Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx

              Comment


                #8
                Here's my understanding of oil weight, describing viscosity. The first number here (0) followed by a (w) is the cold weight, and (20) in this case is the weight at normal operating temperatures.

                So once it's all heated up it doesn't matter if it's 15w/20 or 0w/20

                Here's how I make sense of this:
                The (w) is a winter weight viscosity so...
                0w is good below -30°
                5w is good to -30°
                10w is good to -20°
                15w is to -10°
                20w is to 0°

                Here are some tips: As mileage adds up, internal engine wear increases bearing clearances. It would be wise to switch to a slightly higher viscosity rating to prolong engine life, reduce noise and oil consumption. For example, if motor form the factory calls for 5W-30 originally, but now has 90,000 miles on it, switching to a 10W-30 oil may provide better lubrication and protection. The thicker oil will maintain the strength of the oil film in the bearings better so the engine will have more oil pressure. This will also reduce engine noise and reduced bearing fatigue (which can lead to bearing failure in high mileage engines).

                For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20 or 5W-30 to reduce friction and drag.

                Since were talking motors here... I'll add this Miata/ BG workshop manual link for our convenience... http://books.google.com/books?id=8eN...page&q&f=false
                Last edited by 93_EGT; 03-26-2011, 10:56 PM.
                ?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 93_EGT View Post
                  Here's my understanding of oil weight, describing viscosity. The first number here (0) followed by a (w) is the cold weight, and (20) in this case is the weight at normal operating temperatures.

                  So once it's all heated up it doesn't matter if it's 15w/20 or 0w/20

                  Here's how I make sense of this:
                  The (w) is a winter weight viscosity so...
                  0w is good below -30°
                  5w is good to -30°
                  10w is good to -20°
                  15w is to -10°
                  20w is to 0°

                  Here are some tips: As mileage adds up and internal engine wear increases bearing clearances. So it would be wise to switch to a slightly higher viscosity rating to prolong engine life, reduce noise and oil consumption. For example, if motor form the factory calls for 5W-30 originally, but now has 90,000 miles on it, switching to a 10W-30 oil may provide better lubrication and protection. The thicker oil will maintain the strength of the oil film in the bearings better so the engine will have more oil pressure. This will also reduce engine noise and reduced bearing fatigue (which can lead to bearing failure in high mileage engines).

                  For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20 or 5W-30 to reduce friction and drag.
                  awesome post. I'll keep that all in mind.
                  My family has lots of bg's!
                  2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
                  1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
                  2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
                  1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
                  1992 Mazda 323: Race car
                  1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
                  1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
                  Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jay View Post
                    Mobil1 is pretty good stuff, Redline is maybe better, and I've heard good things about Amsoil. The oil I'm using now is a German full synthetic called Pento-syn (freakin' 50 bucks a gallon) that my pal John gets for his customer cars. Mercedes spec's it in the AMG cars as well. What I've noticed is a total lack of HLA noise on cold startup, and a generally much quieter idle. It's what I'll be running in the rallycar once we get it broken in and the rings sealed, assuming we ever get it all back together of course. Main reason John is using the stuff is that in any of the cars he sees that run it, there's zero engine wear 'tween service intervals. Yah OK that's prolly good enough for me!
                    I hadn't heard of Pentosin so I looked it up. Apparently, Pentosin makes oils in three categories: mineral-based, semi-synthetic, and HC synthetic. However, the synthetic oil is actually a hydrocracked Group III formulation derived from petroleum base stocks. That's why it's prefaced with an HC, I assume, and of course you all know that hydrocracked Group III oils can legally be sold as true synthetics in the US. Not commenting on the quality of the oil since if it's recommended by M-B it's obviously of high quality, but at almost US $13/quart it's right up there in Red Line (Group V, Polyol ester) country pricewise.


                    Those seeking a true synthetic oil from Germany might consider Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30 (also known as German Castrol) which is group IV PAO based. It's readily available from Autozone and PEP Boys but stay away from the domestic Syntec which is just another hydrocracked group III oil.

                    Happy Motoring!
                    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by goldstar View Post
                      I hadn't heard of Pentosin so I looked it up. Apparently, Pentosin makes oils in three categories: mineral-based, semi-synthetic, and HC synthetic. However, the synthetic oil is actually a hydrocracked Group III formulation derived from petroleum base stocks. That's why it's prefaced with an HC, I assume, and of course you all know that hydrocracked Group III oils can legally be sold as true synthetics in the US. Not commenting on the quality of the oil since if it's recommended by M-B it's obviously of high quality, but at almost US $13/quart it's right up there in Red Line (Group V, Polyol ester) country pricewise.


                      Happy Motoring!
                      Redlinr for $13 a quart?!!! Where do you get your prices from??? I can get it locally for $10.99 a quart. But they only have certain ones available. Not the entire line.
                      My family has lots of bg's!
                      2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
                      1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
                      2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
                      1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
                      1992 Mazda 323: Race car
                      1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
                      1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
                      Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Red Line costs me US $10.50/quart for 5W-30) at my local dealer. My point was that a hydrocracked Group III oil selling at ~ 13/quart compared with a Group V Polyol ester formulation costing substantially less, might give one pause when making a purchasing decision.

                        Happy Motoring!
                        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                        Comment


                          #13
                          +1 for Amsoil. 5w40 for winter, 10w40 for summer.
                          I get better performance and MPG with these weights than I did with 5w30 or 10w30. I'd try Redline, but nobody carries it around here. Amsoil dealer is just one block from work, plus is a friend so I get it at his cost.
                          94 pro base model, all synthetic fluids, s/r struts, front & rear ebay upper strut bars,front & rear tie bar, ZX2 1" front swaybar, EGT 21mm rear sway bar, custom delrin endlinks front & rear, custom delrin rear swaybar mount bushings, EBC front blanks & redstuff pads, CS ss brake lines & dot 4 fluid, big drum brakes in rear (from ZX2, free parts), 2.25 custom exaust w/magnaflo oval muffler, 4-wire o2 sensor, custom ram-air, 4-wire BP tb, MSD super conducter plug wires, MSD Blaster SS coil, NGK iridiums,OEM weighted shift knob, ebay short shifter, bronzoil bushings, CS ss clutch line, custom air splitter, mx-3 recaro drivers seat, EGT foglight switch, 35w 5000k hi/lo hid's

                          soon:
                          lightened flywheel & clutch; in garage,
                          Miata Daisy's; after new tires

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I just looked at the jug here, and the stuff we're using is called pentosin high performance II. This is a full synthetic step up from the stuff Goldstar found, and really does seem to be all that. http://www.pentosin.net/pressrelease...o_II_5W-40.pdf
                            That said, there's an interesting discussion here, http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1184642&page=1
                            wherein there is some discussion as to whether it really is full synth, or hydrocracked, and whether or not it matters these days. All I know is I have full time silent HLA's and Redline has never been able to do that. Sorry for the threadjack...
                            '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                            '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                            http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                            Comment


                              #15
                              In an effort to make their cars go,
                              N00bs reach for that old PAO.
                              While Amsoil users just fester
                              Give me that fine Polyol ester,
                              Red Line takes win, place and show.

                              Happy Motoring!
                              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X