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Turbo Overboosting! BZZZZZZZZ

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    Turbo Overboosting! BZZZZZZZZ

    i finially got my GTX running recent and stopping somewhat decent so i decided to see if it rolls.
    Now this is the first time ever driving this car since when i bought it, it was not running.

    Just so you know it has an HKS boost controller hooked up.
    Also the genius who did that never put in a boost gauge.

    So i starting driving.(throttle response was SO SLOW!)
    change to second gear, put the foot down and nothing....
    Turbo finally spools then a second later this Buzzer comes on! BZZZZZ!!

    scared the **** outa me and i stop to pull over.
    My FC RX7 had a buzzer when you would redline it.
    figured it was a mazda thing.

    so i try again to pay down some power and again it buzzes and instantly kills the throttle.

    Obviously i need a boost gauge because i have no idea how much boost the engine is getting but you would think with that controller it would have a Chipped ecu to bypass the stock boost or whatever?


    Anyways, its annoying because it kills the engine throttle and i go slow, ha

    how can i fix this? if the engine can handle the boost i should be able to chip the ecu?

    no idea with these cars thats why im asking you guys!

    PS: sorry for the long winded explanation!!

    #2
    1st thihng 1st. Boost guage. Slow throttle says that something else is wrong, but no idea what at this point.
    '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
    '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

    Comment


      #3
      Sounds like you might have a leak right at the exhaust manifold/turbo. Check for any exhaust leaks and also check your intercooler pipes. Can you temporarily bypass the boost controller? Take it out and hook it back up like stock?
      Create your own VB Gallery here.

      Please DONATE to keep our forum alive!

      I've decided that my car is a girl, she's picky as hell, won't listen to me, always wants to fight me, and when i give her presents it's never good enough and she always wants more.


      <-"Will be the death of this forum"


      Comment


        #4
        Yeah thats what i was going to do.
        Run stock boost till i get it tuned and possibly the ECU chipped.

        the best way to check for boost leaks? since this only happens under load and not at idle.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by audi5000 View Post
          Yeah thats what i was going to do.
          Run stock boost till i get it tuned and possibly the ECU chipped.

          the best way to check for boost leaks? since this only happens under load and not at idle.
          You can make your own homemade boost leak tester. My friend and I made one to test our systems with. Bascially we used PCV piping and an air fitting and put it after the turbo, and then cap off the piping right before the throttle body and use an air compressor to pressurize the system and check for leaks at couplers or possible cracks/holes in the pipes.
          Create your own VB Gallery here.

          Please DONATE to keep our forum alive!

          I've decided that my car is a girl, she's picky as hell, won't listen to me, always wants to fight me, and when i give her presents it's never good enough and she always wants more.


          <-"Will be the death of this forum"


          Comment


            #6
            Download the Factory Service Manual. I have a feeling that you'll be needing it.

            Comment


              #7
              lol already got that. not much help when i dont know where to start poking around.

              Comment


                #8
                Also i think my incredibly slow throttle response also is related to this issue.
                im thinking thats the MAF thats causing that because i just replaced the TPS.

                Comment


                  #9
                  What makes you say that it is the afm? Isn't the afm responsible for metering the correct amount if fuel?

                  In my experience, timing was the culprit; I had a worn crank keyway, which threw off timing to around 20* and it ran like crap at low rpms but took off like mad at high rpms.

                  What is the timing set at?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                    In my experience, timing was the culprit; I had a worn crank keyway, which threw off timing to around 20* and it ran like crap at low rpms but took off like mad at high rpms.

                    What is the timing set at?
                    That sir, is dead on!

                    bad acceleration but then around 4K rpm she goes.
                    The timing was off 180* when i bought the car.
                    So i set the engine to TDC, ill have to get the timing light out and set it right.

                    i think it says to sert it at 12* under the hood.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Well now there's yer problem!
                      '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                      '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                      http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Look for the link to check the keyway issue. This forum or google: miata crank failure.

                        Be prepared to pull the timing pulley to either:
                        Source a new engine or
                        Source a large nose crank, oil pump, seals, pulleys
                        Loctite / JB Weld fix

                        Lots of write ups on here and yahoo forum.

                        Good luck

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Wait, what?
                          The engine was swapped with a Gtx engine from japan land

                          Crank does not wobble.
                          I will reset tdc and use a timing light to get the proper degree.

                          That should fix it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            My advice: find the timing groove on the innermost pulley, paint it white then go outboard on the other pulley and make a corresponding paint mark. Then paint the timing marks on the plastic cover. It's damn near impossible to read the mark on the inner pulley when it wants to be tucked behind the cover.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Drive it around a bit then recheck the timing to see if it moved. If it did, then pull the timing cog and inspect the keyway and replace the woodruff key.

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