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87 Mazda 323 LX

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    87 Mazda 323 LX

    So since I've got a good starting point I'm going to go ahead and start my work log. I'm working with a 1987 323 LX sedan it currently has a 1.6L 8 valve SOHC engine and automatic transmission. I've just got my hands on two BP blocks one has BP-1 stamped on it and the other has BP-2 stamped on it both have the piston oil
    squirters but the BP-2 seems to have bigger oil squirters then the BP-1 block or I'm just wishfully seeing things so I'm going to be building up the BP-2 stamped block. I've got two completely assembled heads and one that is not but has all the parts to rebuild it. I've got a full set of 8.5:1 B8 pistons 3 cranks one in which has a larger
    crank nose then the others so I think I'm going to use it in my build. With all the parts I have I can almost build two engines I'll get some pictures up as soon as I can.
    I'm a balla on a budget

    #2
    What's up? I'm in K-falls for work right now.

    1988 White GTX - #1 parts
    1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
    1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
    1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
    1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car

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      #3
      Nothin much man Just cleanin up my blocks and heads. Work huh you found work in Kfalls?
      I'm a balla on a budget

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        #4
        Today I got the pistons in and the large nose crank put in but I think something is a miss, every time I tighten down the crank it gets so stiff that I cant turn it even though the head is not on to cause compression. I've lubed up the bearings for the crank but nothing changed is this normal for these engines? The pistons move with some small resistance but that's normal at least in other engines I've worked on. So tomorrow I will swap to one of the smaller cranks and see if that changes anything.
        I'm a balla on a budget

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          #5
          Did you check your bearing clearances? Sounds like they're too tight.
          12 cbr250r: daily ride
          01 saab 9-3: daily
          98 gsxr 1100: for sale
          93L: money pit/ space waster
          92GL: low and slow beater
          90?: the rust free shell
          89LX: swapping to rust free shell
          89L: for sale
          89L: parts
          87 conquest: dohc 4g64 swap underway
          76+80 vw dashers: for sale

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            #6
            They looked okay to me but then again I just looked and didn't measure anything
            I'm a balla on a budget

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              #7
              plastiguage is your friend


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                #8
                Are the caps in the correct order? New bearings or used?
                -Steve

                94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                VF10 powered!
                262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                13.1@107

                '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

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                  #9
                  I think that the caps are in the right order but I'll double check to be sure as for the bearings they are new but I got the old
                  ones from the block so I can compare them
                  I'm a balla on a budget

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                    #10
                    it's essential that they are in the correct order and direction or else the crank will not spin freely at all.
                    -Steve

                    94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                    VF10 powered!
                    262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                    13.1@107

                    '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

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                      #11
                      I think that the caps are in the right order but I got two sets of them one set to use with a cranke girdle and the other is to not run the girdle as for the bearings these are new but I got the old ones from the block both do the same thing maybe I'll swap the crank caps to the other set an see if that works
                      Last edited by Tpan; 10-19-2011, 02:26 AM. Reason: typo
                      I'm a balla on a budget

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You need to use the caps that came with that block.
                        12 cbr250r: daily ride
                        01 saab 9-3: daily
                        98 gsxr 1100: for sale
                        93L: money pit/ space waster
                        92GL: low and slow beater
                        90?: the rust free shell
                        89LX: swapping to rust free shell
                        89L: for sale
                        89L: parts
                        87 conquest: dohc 4g64 swap underway
                        76+80 vw dashers: for sale

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Total fail. You cant "eye"bearings. Also just as stated, you must use the same caps that came with the motor as they are line bored
                          1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
                          1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
                          2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
                          2010 VW routon

                          Originally posted by jay
                          .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You're not using under sized bearings,right?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              My problem is when I got the blocks and parts they were all in pieces in unmarked boxes so I'm not to sure which ones are which.
                              Last edited by Tpan; 10-19-2011, 09:23 PM. Reason: typo
                              I'm a balla on a budget

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