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323 BF GTX from Bulgaria

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    323 BF GTX from Bulgaria

    Hi Everyone!

    I’m from Bulgaria and last year I bought 2 Mazda’s 323 BF GTX, which are very rare here as they are around the world, ofcourse.
    The first one (Black) is going to be used for spares and the second one (Blue) will be fully rebuild – engine, suspension, body, looks (as standard as possible) and everything else.

    This one, as I said earlier, will be used for spare parts.
    Once it was a drag race car, but because of poor engine tuning it blown several times and the previous owner decided to sell it, so there are lots of useful spares:






    From this car I used custom headers, turbocharger Garret T3, gearbox (standart) and other useful parts like blow-off valve, fuel pressure regulator, etc.

    This is the car that is going to be on the road:
    It will be used for mountain fun in winter times like this - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYYZG...eature=related , not for daily summer drive.







    When I bought it, she was far from perfect condition:
    - the turbocharger was gone
    - when I removed the stock headers I saw that 3rd cylinder was wet, oily
    - there was quite a lot of rust
    - the suspension was like on a boat and many other things

    However I decided that it’s worth the effort and I started the project.

    1. Engine:
    - the block was machined and honed to first oversize
    - the head was polished and ported
    - the crankshaft was machined, because it was damaged
    - new inlet and exhaust camshafts (standart)
    - Wiseco Forged Pistons 0.20 Oversize:



    - ACL Main and Rod Bearings + Thrustwashers:


    - Custom headers from the black one:


    - Garrett T3 Turbocharger from the black Mazda as well:


    - It had small play in shaft, so it was repaired:



    - Blow-off valve:


    - Fuel pressure regulator:


    - Front mount intercooler from Ford Escort Cosworth Gr.A
    - Radiator from BMW; completely different cooling system because of the bigger turbocharger
    - Magnecor ignition leads
    - NGK Iridium Spark plugs
    - Open Air Filter
    - Castrol Racing 5W-50
    - until better days, the car will be running on standart ECU, which suggests, that the pressure will be no more than 0,8bar

    2. Gearbox:
    - Exedy clutch kit
    - Because the central diff was broken, I used the gearbox from the black Mazda
    - After a lot of research I decided to put Kroon Oil (Netherlands) ATF Dextron II in the gearbox; Kroon Oil 75W-90 in the transferbox and 75W-90 in the rear diff

    3. Suspension
    - as I mentioned earlier, the suspension of the blue one was in very bad condition. I’m going to install the one from the black for a while until better days

    4. Brakes
    - front Brembo Rotors with Textar brakepads
    - rear standart rotors with Textar brakepads

    5. Body
    - there is quite a lot of work, because its rusty, needs really good repair. This is the first on the list.

    6. Rims
    - 4x 15"Axis rims with Toyo Proxes T1-R tyres


    - 4x 14"standart Mazda BF GTX rims with Semperit SnowGrip tyres (with holes for spikes)
    - 4x 15"BH rims with *****n WR G2 winter tyres

    Continued....

    #2
    ...

    After year and a half rest, first days driving it:





    Quick change of rims:




    Exterior:






    Interior:


    Engine bay:



    Using it as planned:





    Home rest:


    Hope you enjoyed.
    Regards,
    Ivo

    Comment


      #3
      That's pretty cool, I had no idea there would be any of these in Bulgaria. Lucky you, looks like you got to have some fun in the snow. I broke my GTX before the snow started flying here.

      Comment


        #4
        what was your average repairs' cost??
        y i ask u so is because i have one to work on and i do mean work on.

        Click image for larger version

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        Last edited by Jerome Als; 03-06-2012, 10:29 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Sorry for the late reply.
          Hope it still helps.

          Well, there are really a lot of things you need to do obviously.
          I can average my cost but it won't be relevant to your problem unless you tell what you think you have to do.
          If your engine is running well I would advice you to start the battle with the rust Then do everything else.

          I didn't invest too much in the engine:
          - grinding and honning of block, head and crank - 200$
          - Wiseco forged pistons - 500$
          - ACL Main and Rod bearings - 100$
          - Turbo rebuild - 250$
          - Exedy clutch kit - 200$
          - Engine, gearbox, transfer and diff oils - 150$
          - and approx. another 3-400$ in additional parts throughout the rebuilt (bolts, filters, piping, etc)
          - these prices may vary and exclude labour costs, however they can give you the overall picture of a cost of engine rebuild

          Ivo

          Comment


            #6
            Wow, that looks good. Needs lowered a touch.

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks!

              Yes, I know. Right now it's on standart shocks and springs. I did a lot of research and there aren't many options.
              A set of KYB shocks with custom springs will cost almost the same as getting a set of adjustable coilovers.
              I'll probably go for a set ot D2's soon...

              What spring rates would you guys suggest for a normal daily drive, because a friend of mine has K-sport coilovers on his GTX and when set to the softest possible setup there is no dampening like they are welded..?
              Maybe 5kg/mm front and 4kg/mm on the rear?

              Cheers,
              Ivo

              Comment

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