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n_prime's 1987 BF 323

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    n_prime's 1987 BF 323

    Bought my latest 323 about 3 weeks ago, and that means a new project begins. The car has a surprisingly clean body for its age and all the chrome and glass are in great shape. Everything on the inside works good all the way down to the clock and tape deck.

    When I found it the axels, struts, brakes, and hatch supports were all shot. Tires are turbo bald as well. Lucky for me I have a parts car sitting in my garage. So far I've got the following done:

    -swapped on a good set of passenger and driver axels
    -installed my KYB GR2 struts on the front passenger and driver side
    -bled brake lines
    -swapped hatch supports for a good set
    -ditched the dx 13" wheels and rubber on the front for the 14" lx wheels with nexen rubber I had in storage
    -installed passenger side mirror from parts car, it was just way too weird to drive it with only a side mirror on the driver's side


    Work to be completed still:
    -installing rear KYB struts
    -swap 14" wheels and rubber onto the rear
    -adjust hand brake cable
    -check inside drums to see if the brake shoes need replacing
    -find where leak in hatch is coming from


    Took her for a spin tonight, bit of a shake between 100-120km probably because it needs a wheel alignment. After bleeding the brake lines I can stop safely now. But the pedal is feeling soft, any tips?
    ~n_prime

    #2
    Whoop, whoop have had this puppy road worthy for awhile now, bout time for an update.

    Work that has been completed:
    -installing rear KYB struts
    -swap 14" wheels and rubber onto the rear

    Work still to be completed:
    -adjust hand brake cable
    -check inside drums to see if the brake shoes need replacing
    -find where leak in hatch is coming from

    Click image for larger version

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    ~n_prime

    Comment


      #3
      glad you got her on the road. Any other plans for the car?
      -Jack

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        #4
        So many plans.... But I'd really like to make it look pretty first. Get it in to an autobody shop for a nice paint job and install my GT bumper I've been saving for it. Still need to source a rear bumper and side skirts though.
        ~n_prime

        Comment


          #5
          Oh,ya.Nice clean subject I would'nt,but I would make it faster.

          Comment


            #6
            Update:

            Alternator pooched on me last week and needed to be replaced. Time to upgrade, to something that puts out more juice than a stock replacement. Good thing I had a spare RX-7 alternator in my garage from my last 323 project. One problem though, the alternator I pulled out of my 87 carby had 3 wire connections to it, and the RX-7 alternator I want to put only has room for 2 wire connections. I know for a fact that this alternator works fine on a 87 that is fuel injected with a simple bolt mod. Just can't remember if that 3rd wire connection matters or not. Maybe someone can chime in with some wisdom, in the pic you can see the RX-7 alternator on the left and the stock one I pulled out on the right.


            Click image for larger version

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            ~n_prime

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              #7
              i THINK it's internally regulated vs externally ... would have to see a schematic to be sure


              Comment


                #8
                Okay, so my question is.... Does that matter to me?
                ~n_prime

                Comment


                  #9
                  well .. yes

                  unless you want to cook batteries weekly


                  Comment


                    #10
                    So I traced the extra wire that there isn't room for on my RX-7 alternator. It goes to this bad boy...

                    Click image for larger version

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                    My ****ty Chilton's service manual makes me believe that this is my automatic choke. Given my limited experience with carbs, I'm thinking I'm probably going to need to keep this operational.
                    ~n_prime

                    Comment


                      #11
                      yeah electric choke . there is a bi-metal spring inside that will expand with power. umm seems a little odd it's wired direct to the alt tho ? that doesnt seem right


                      Comment


                        #12
                        Factory style connector on the end of it that clips into the alternator makes me think it's legit. Lesson learned, carbed alternators and fuel injected alternators not swappable on this car.
                        ~n_prime

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by n_prime View Post
                          Factory style connector on the end of it that clips into the alternator makes me think it's legit. Lesson learned, carbed alternators and fuel injected alternators not swappable on this car.
                          they are you just need to run 12v constant to that wire on the choke.

                          I have had heaaaaps of the carb bfs and done swaps a million times you can even run a late model BG/BA/BH alternator as well
                          FE3 POWA
                          1985 Mazda 323 BF5P - FE3 powered

                          Comment


                            #14
                            UPDATE: I solved my alternator problem some time ago, but I thought I would post my solution so you know what to do when it happens to you.

                            I ended up buying a re-manufactured alternator, but I had to buy one that was meant for a different vehicle. The original alternator for the car is a Mitsubishi style, which luckily is used on many other vehicles on the same vintage. The one that I went with is a Dixie Electic part #A-8223. According to their website they list the alternator for use on 1986-1987 Mazda B-Series Pickup (2.0L 4cyl), 1988-1989 Mazda B-Series Pickup (2.2L 4cyl), or 1984 Mazda RX7 (1.1L 12A Rotary).

                            Here is the link to the manufacturers website: http://www.dixie-electric.com/
                            Here is the link to the part itself: http://www.dixie-electric.com/catalo..._Ext=a8223#App


                            As you can see, this alternator has both plugs that you will need for the BF 1.6L carburetor setup. However, please note that one on the bottom mounting flanges is not threaded like the stock one. You will need to do the old bolt mod to make it work (i.e. Slightly thinner and longer bolt with washers, lock washer, and nut).
                            Attached Files
                            ~n_prime

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Also had a heck of a time finding a replacement air filter for this car. Every part store I dropped in on only has the FI motor listed, so finally one of the parts guys let me go in the back and find as good of a match as possible from the stock on the shelf.

                              Ended up with a Fram #CA327, seems to be working pretty good. Now I have a reference from which I can upgrade from in the future.

                              Manufacturer's website: http://www.fram.com
                              Link to part itself: http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=CA327
                              ~n_prime

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