Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Big Brake Upgrade Questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Big Brake Upgrade Questions

    From what I've read, a '91 929 master cylinder is the one to use for this upgrade. However, when I looked that part up for both the SOHC & DOHC models, it appears the one from a '91 is shown as having a 7/8" bore like the stock GTX one does. The '92 929 master cylinder however is shown as having 1" bore which I'm guessing would be the better choice. Is this correct? Also, the 929 m.c. is shown with a spacer between it and the 929 booster. Is this spacer necessary when the 929 m.c. is used with the '95 Protege booster? Any help from those who have done this conversion would be appreciated. Thanks.

    #2
    You want the 1" bore and be sure to grab the big clevis from the pedal rod. They say non ABS but I don't think it matters. All the ABS stuff comes off. The 95 Pro booster will work...I used a 96 but I would think they are the same. Also grab the banjo joints with the booster and you will need to rebend one of your lines to mate with the MC. All is easy enough.
    Clay

    Comment


      #3
      Edit ...Banjo joints with the MC not the booster.

      Comment


        #4
        What about the spacer between master cylinder and booster...necessary or not?

        Comment


          #5
          Edd, I do not see a spacer on mine.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks Clay. It's about 1/2" thick so if you had it, you'd see it. I guess it's not needed. One less thing I'll need to source.

            Comment


              #7

              Comment


                #8
                Yea...what he said

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just read the Dustdevil writeup and it raises another question. Why is it necessary to bend the front brake line for the 929 master cylinder? The port spacing where the brake lines connect appears to be the same as the stock GTX master cylinder. What am I missing here?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The Banjo Bolt goes in to the port farthest away from the firewall, the stock line will not thread in to that port unless the banjo bolt is there. The line will have to be bent to go in to the banjo bolt, which is perpendicular to the original port.
                    The pics don't do it justice, you'll understand when you see it in person.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I'm going to bump this.
                      I was having some "soft pedal issues" during the last autocross event. After some researching, I found this on YouTube and tried it out. The pedal feel has been improved a lot. You'll need a 7mm wrench/socket and a pair of angle-pliers. I had both the booster and MC removed from the car and did the adjustment. The last adjustment made was to the clevis joint when installing the booster to the pedal assy. Have fun.
                      http://youtu.be/GrFEzfDnzqM

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X