Process? Yeah Process. It's not really a build log... yet.
Anyway, They call me Grimmy, Grimlok, Grimski, Dr Grim, and even sometimes A-hole. Lurking for 2 years, Been trying to get my hands on a cancer free project shell for some time now. I've owned 3 BF mazdas before this one, a couple of BDs, (Or KC's or whatever subframe ford call their laser), and the "family car" is a BH. Had most of the B series in pieces over the last 17 years, from my BDs and BFs, thru to an exe's BG I did a BPT conversion in. Personally always liked the BF though... Enough intoductions, I'm sure you will see, I talk a lil crap, like a lil smoke, and think a cold beer tastes best at 5pm. Refuse to pay someone to do something I know I can do myself with the help of google, and ain't afraid to get stuck in... So... Let's get into it.
1985 BF5P Mazda Familia, With amusing factory "Sport" decals either side. I still have no idea what the "Sport" part actually means, especially with an E5 carb and 3 speed slushbox. I think it means "Top rear lip, and leather steeringwheel", cus apart from that, it's no different to the last E3 5 speed, 5 door hatch I had.
These are all the pics that were up on the auction before I brought her.
99% cancer free, Windshield needed replacing, small 1/4" hole bubbling thru behind it, so out with the sandblaster and mig and into it I went. I wish I had pics of the cancer behind the windshield, but I was starting to get over it for the day "Just fuggin fill the hole and let's get some paint on it so it cures and I can get the new glass in" type moment. She also had a leaky strut in the left rear. But I've owned 3 other BFs (All 4 door hatches), and still have the last one as a Parts Car, So swapped that out while wating for the RTV in the windshield to go off. Also swapped on the GTX grill I've had waiting for a couple of years.
Windshield done, Leaky strut sorted. Thru her 6 monthly Warrant Of Fitness without drama or suprises.
I've used the same tester for my w.o.f's for the last 17 years, So he knows me pretty well, will let the odd small thing slide "I'll pass it, I should make you do that and that before I pass it, But I know you will do it" type guy. I work at the local Indoor Karting Facility, with 24/7 access to a workshop most grease monkeys dream of. So working on her is going to be pretty easy.
left to do for now...
Couple of small spots of cancer in the bottom of both doors, (Only 2 doors to worry about, and after chasing cancer in the bottom of the 4 doors, there is enough room to swing a cat inside these ones) Some ripples that need heatin' and freakin', and realign the front bumper and left guard.
I'm pretty sure she's had an arguement with a parking facility at some point down the left hand side, The ripples in the door skin, and in the sil/guard behind it, as well as the front guard and bumper being pushed back all point to a glancing blow to that side of her.
Then a Regun in Ford's fleet vehicle stock white, It's prolly not a 100% paint match, But it's close enough, and the boss has a heap of it left over from a fleet respray he did a couple of years ago. Finish it off with a metal flake/glitter thru the clear, just to make it a lil different. Dump it down on Jamex low springs (Not super low, this is my daily afterall) Wrap the lights and glass in 35% tint, swap the front calipers out for the 22v versions, do the master cylinder swap, rear disks if I can find them. Then it's time to do the engine bay.
This is where I've come to a complete stop. I'm not sure weather to squish the v6 in there and work my way thru all the fab work, or just dump and FE in there and be done with it. KL's can be picked up here for around $500nzd with loom, ecu, and gearbox, And the FE's your looking at around $1000nzd with loom, ecu, box etc.
The FE is pretty minor work compared to the KL, and by the time you factor custom outer halfshafts, Radiator, either tranny piping or hydro clutch, your prolly speaking the same sorta costs all up. AND the KL-ZE does sound pretty epic in a small car. To quote my boss "You really wanna make that ford v8 in the lane next to you at the lights panic and wonder why your 85 mazda is pulling away from his $30,000 car? Go the v6"
I've read ALL the FE and KL swaps here, seems there's no definitive answer, or point of reference inside the enginebay. Decided my best bet is to take a laser level of the inner h/shafts and where they sit, and position the new motor/box accordingly, then move/make up mounts to fit. I'm already gonna be messing around with custom shafts, better to get the motor and box perfect before even taking h/shaft measurements.
Anyway, That's where I'm at for now.... almost everyone seems to be doing the K swap with a manual 5 speed box. Any real major dramas doing it with the matching auto box outta the GE chassis? I see a member here has done it to the BG, any reason it's going to be difficult for me? I'm over changing gears in my daily, I have racekarts and motox bikes with gearboxes to play with when I really feel the need to change gears. :-)
Anyway, They call me Grimmy, Grimlok, Grimski, Dr Grim, and even sometimes A-hole. Lurking for 2 years, Been trying to get my hands on a cancer free project shell for some time now. I've owned 3 BF mazdas before this one, a couple of BDs, (Or KC's or whatever subframe ford call their laser), and the "family car" is a BH. Had most of the B series in pieces over the last 17 years, from my BDs and BFs, thru to an exe's BG I did a BPT conversion in. Personally always liked the BF though... Enough intoductions, I'm sure you will see, I talk a lil crap, like a lil smoke, and think a cold beer tastes best at 5pm. Refuse to pay someone to do something I know I can do myself with the help of google, and ain't afraid to get stuck in... So... Let's get into it.
1985 BF5P Mazda Familia, With amusing factory "Sport" decals either side. I still have no idea what the "Sport" part actually means, especially with an E5 carb and 3 speed slushbox. I think it means "Top rear lip, and leather steeringwheel", cus apart from that, it's no different to the last E3 5 speed, 5 door hatch I had.
These are all the pics that were up on the auction before I brought her.
99% cancer free, Windshield needed replacing, small 1/4" hole bubbling thru behind it, so out with the sandblaster and mig and into it I went. I wish I had pics of the cancer behind the windshield, but I was starting to get over it for the day "Just fuggin fill the hole and let's get some paint on it so it cures and I can get the new glass in" type moment. She also had a leaky strut in the left rear. But I've owned 3 other BFs (All 4 door hatches), and still have the last one as a Parts Car, So swapped that out while wating for the RTV in the windshield to go off. Also swapped on the GTX grill I've had waiting for a couple of years.
Windshield done, Leaky strut sorted. Thru her 6 monthly Warrant Of Fitness without drama or suprises.
I've used the same tester for my w.o.f's for the last 17 years, So he knows me pretty well, will let the odd small thing slide "I'll pass it, I should make you do that and that before I pass it, But I know you will do it" type guy. I work at the local Indoor Karting Facility, with 24/7 access to a workshop most grease monkeys dream of. So working on her is going to be pretty easy.
left to do for now...
Couple of small spots of cancer in the bottom of both doors, (Only 2 doors to worry about, and after chasing cancer in the bottom of the 4 doors, there is enough room to swing a cat inside these ones) Some ripples that need heatin' and freakin', and realign the front bumper and left guard.
I'm pretty sure she's had an arguement with a parking facility at some point down the left hand side, The ripples in the door skin, and in the sil/guard behind it, as well as the front guard and bumper being pushed back all point to a glancing blow to that side of her.
Then a Regun in Ford's fleet vehicle stock white, It's prolly not a 100% paint match, But it's close enough, and the boss has a heap of it left over from a fleet respray he did a couple of years ago. Finish it off with a metal flake/glitter thru the clear, just to make it a lil different. Dump it down on Jamex low springs (Not super low, this is my daily afterall) Wrap the lights and glass in 35% tint, swap the front calipers out for the 22v versions, do the master cylinder swap, rear disks if I can find them. Then it's time to do the engine bay.
This is where I've come to a complete stop. I'm not sure weather to squish the v6 in there and work my way thru all the fab work, or just dump and FE in there and be done with it. KL's can be picked up here for around $500nzd with loom, ecu, and gearbox, And the FE's your looking at around $1000nzd with loom, ecu, box etc.
The FE is pretty minor work compared to the KL, and by the time you factor custom outer halfshafts, Radiator, either tranny piping or hydro clutch, your prolly speaking the same sorta costs all up. AND the KL-ZE does sound pretty epic in a small car. To quote my boss "You really wanna make that ford v8 in the lane next to you at the lights panic and wonder why your 85 mazda is pulling away from his $30,000 car? Go the v6"
I've read ALL the FE and KL swaps here, seems there's no definitive answer, or point of reference inside the enginebay. Decided my best bet is to take a laser level of the inner h/shafts and where they sit, and position the new motor/box accordingly, then move/make up mounts to fit. I'm already gonna be messing around with custom shafts, better to get the motor and box perfect before even taking h/shaft measurements.
Anyway, That's where I'm at for now.... almost everyone seems to be doing the K swap with a manual 5 speed box. Any real major dramas doing it with the matching auto box outta the GE chassis? I see a member here has done it to the BG, any reason it's going to be difficult for me? I'm over changing gears in my daily, I have racekarts and motox bikes with gearboxes to play with when I really feel the need to change gears. :-)
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