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How's this for power delivery?

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    How's this for power delivery?

    Check out my torque curve, and smooth power gain.



    That was before and after RX7 AFM in case you were wondering.

    #2
    nice numbers!.... better than what i've gotten on a dynojet

    few questions - what kind of weather that day? before the RX7 meter, did you have all the stock intake plumbing in place? or did you have a cone filter on your stock meter? what do you have on the exhaust side??
    Original owner: 1991 Protege LX (now w/SOHC) and a few more BG's ....

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      #3
      I did a baseline run with just an OBX muffler and a K&N drop in and got 110.9hp and 108.2lb/ft. The same day, I did a run with a Fram paper filter and it made the same hp(fractionally more actually). Then I took the filter right out, and again, it made the same power. Which means it doesn't matter what kind of filter you have in the airbox, they all flow enough air for that configuration. My only other 'mod' was removal of the radiator attached resonator tube.

      Then I did full 2.5" exhaust, with 2.5" hi-flow cat and resonator, with a new 2.5" OBX muffler. Put it on the dyno, and it made pretty much the same power up til 6000rpm, where it REALLY opened up. I was up to 113.9hp and still 108.2lb/ft, but I got a 5hp gain at 7000rpm.

      Then we played around with ignition timing. It turned out that my car was already at 16 degrees advanced, which explains why it ran stronger than most Proteges already. We bumped it up to 20 and lost power, then brought it down to 10 degrees, and it only made around 108hp. So we brought it up to 18 degrees(make sure to use premium fuel) and got about 1.5hp gain across the board compared to 16 degrees. More importantly, we got 7hp across the board to make it 114.9hp and 109.1lb/ft now.

      Next was the RX7 AFM and pod filter. I installed it myself and adjusted the flapper door tension til it ran smoothly. I put it on the dyno, and we only made 107hp. I had it WAY too rich(flapper door tension was way too lose), so we adjusted it click by click til we got the best numbers. I'm not at 117.2hp and 111.7lb/ft of torque. Not bad for only a few mods. Header is next, hopefully that'll get me another 7hp.

      Conditions were pretty much the same most days. It was cold and dry outside, but obviously the runs were done inside where it was warmer(maybe 18 degrees Celcius), and one day it was cool outside, but rainy. All the numbers are corrected anyways on the Dynojet.

      naprotejay, I recommend you go back to the dyno, and tune your ignition timing and AFM till you get best power #s. Since you have headers, you should be getting at least 120whp......

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        #4
        I need to get my 323 tuned like this.
        Have the genie headers droped in price yet at all?
        I don't want the pacesetter headers, but I guess if the price was right...


        After idle stabelized how many clicks did you adjust the VAF again.
        photo album|photo album 2 (pbase)

        dbest1a AT yahoo DOT com

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          #5
          I'm sorry, but I didn't count. Since I only got 107hp before I tightened it, I moved the little spring back and moved it a whole bunch of clicks at once. Too far actually, so that it didn't idle properly. Even when we got most power, I had to adjust the idle screw in the TB to get it to idle properly, that's how lean it's set.

          I'd guess that I'm at 4 clicks CCW over the setting it came with. It'll be different for everyone though, depending on how much power you make to begin with. If you're only putting down 110whp, you might need 6 clicks.

          How much are the Genie headers? I'm paying $800 for custom 4-1 headers with 1 3/4", 36" Primaries and a 10" collecter. My car's gonna scream when that's put in. I'm expecting 7whp at 6600rpm and 10whp at 7400rpm. And that's considering the conservative gains I've gotten so far.

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            #6
            thanks for the info!
            next time when you're on the dyno, it'd be interesting to see your results of a stock VAF with no cone filter, airbox, etc vs the tuned RX7 VAF with no cone filter. reason i ask is because in my latest round of dynos (29 runs), i found that my tuned RX7 VAF made only about 1hp more at peak over the stock VAF! in both comparisons, no filter was used - and that was with the stock DC(upper manifold)
            now, in my initial round of dynos on a Mustang dyno(see my sig), i went straight from the stock airbox, plumbing, etc to the RX7 VAF with just a cone filter. i got ~7hp. i thought those gains must be coming from the RX7 VAF because of the well-published Miata results. but i wondered how the stock VAF would compare with the same situation - no airbox, etc....
            that's what i got to try this time around and with the results i got, the gains appear to be coming mainly from removing all the stock plumbing - NOT from the RX7 VAF. if you try the same experiment - and got the same results - it'd help to confirm it.

            anyway i did a lot of experiments this time around - mainly to compare the 2nd gen and stock DC - i'll post that soon in a new thread...

            the Genie headers cost $242. please be sure to post some pics of your 4-1 header when its done

            one reason for my 'average' hp could be my high mileage - 223,000 *miles*. also those runs were done in 4th gear. timing was ~14 degrees with 87 octane.
            how much mileage on your engine and what gear were you in??

            bty hello to former protegeclubbers
            Original owner: 1991 Protege LX (now w/SOHC) and a few more BG's ....

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              #7
              I noticed a slight difference when I removed the stock intake piping and installed a cone filter. Low end power seemed to suffer in favor of higher rpm power. Didn't feel a slightest difference once the RX-7 VAF was on and I played with the tuning for quite a while......

              Nice to see you around Jason! Hope you visit this forum more often
              -------------------------
              '91 LX
              '03 Mazdaspeed Protege #235
              -------------------------

              Originally posted by pigeon
              well if you're a fan of inaccuracy and uncertainty.... then by all means, go set your timing by feel and sound

              while you're out there, you might as well adjust your air/fuel ratio by smell... and your tire pressure by ride height

              Comment


                #8
                My car has 168, 000km. Or just over 100,000 miles. My dyno runs were also done in 4th gear, on a Dynojet dynometer. I'll be sure to take pics of the header when it's done.

                My next mods are going to be cams, cam gears and Greddy E-Manage.

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                  #9
                  hmm..thats weird? u go up to 20 deg on ur timing? mine can only go up to 14 degree.There's no more adjustment on the disty its all the way already....hmm.. imusta be doing something wrong...

                  i put the jumper wire and everything and still i can only go 14 deg the most...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Look forward to seeing how much power you make with your future mods
                    I'm planning on basically doing the same thing with a few differences...

                    Thanx Identity_X for the welcome!
                    Original owner: 1991 Protege LX (now w/SOHC) and a few more BG's ....

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