Some mods and faq!

[Loco_R]

Recently y went to the track and made my self a fiberglass headlamp... with a hole conected to my flowmeter so it could "breath" air from outside... i reduce my time with only this mod in 0.2 seconds in 1/4 mile... and got better miles per hour at the end of the 1/4 of mile!!! i removed the resonator box so it could fit the fiberglass lamp hole... there is any record or think about a mod like this in a proto?

Also here in panama we dont use cat back... i have 4 to 1 header(long one) and a 2 1/4 inch pipe line straight back.. not cat no nothing!...just a pseudo performance exhaust!!! i feel i need little more mid range power... by changing the pipeline into 2 inches i think it will improve... or by adding ...(i dont know the exact word in english) but the think that we usually put before the exhaust pipe so it could mek less noise... and it will give me more back pressure that in this case with a car like mine with not too much torque is a must!

What you think about this? Thanks
Manuel

[bruce95fmla]

I think it's a great idea.

You are speaking of a resonator. -- that goes before the muffler to quiet it up.

So what was your 1.4 mile time.

[Loco_R]

mine at sea level ( we run at 150 meters from a beach i nad old airport) and in the tropic with a lot of heat and humidity is right now 16.2 from 16.4 to 16.2 was the drop!

[Loco_R]

here is a pic of me in the mid, with the intake on my hand.. before i conected it to the headlamp! and with some fellas!

http://www.panamaspeed.com/coronado_abril_18/12.jpg

[Gen1GT]

Are you sure you have 280 degree cams? What make are they? What's your cam timing set at, and what's your overlap? How does your car idle? What did you do for increased fuel? You're obviously not tuned right, if you're only running 16.2 on 280 duration cams......

[Loco_R]

sorry

Are you sure you have 280 degree cams? What make are they? What's your cam timing set at, and what's your overlap? How does your car idle? What did you do for increased fuel? You're obviously not tuned right, if you're only running 16.2 on 280 duration cams......

mi car indeed idles.. when i have the distributor moved foward.. also i gat the cams,they are grinded but indeed their performance does not seem to be good for a 280 degrees... also another guy told me that those cams could be 264 or something like that!... fuel only i removed the vacum hose of the return line in the fuel rail! thats it if that help... i dont have any info about the overlap of the cams... and about fuel also y move three click of the vaf so it could be a little loosen...my spark ´plugs are nearly brown if that means something! what do you recomend me to do?

[Gen1GT]

mi car indeed idles.. when i have the distributor moved foward.. also i gat the cams,they are grinded but indeed their performance does not seem to be good for a 280 degrees... also another guy told me that those cams could be 264 or something like that!... fuel only i removed the vacum hose of the return line in the fuel rail! thats it if that help... i dont have any info about the overlap of the cams... and about fuel also y move three click of the vaf so it could be a little loosen...my spark ´plugs are nearly brown if that means something! what do you recomend me to do?

I recommend you take your car and do some dyno tuning with your AFM and ignition timing. If you're running rich, you could be losing power too.....

[Loco_R]

mi dear friend the only dyno we have here is the track!

[91ProtegeLX]

Yea, you definately need some dyno tuning. Do you ever shoot out black smoke from your taillight? If so, your prolly running rich. And from what I understand our cars like to be run lean.

[dylan]

Yea, you definately need some dyno tuning. Do you ever shoot out black smoke from your taillight? If so, your prolly running rich. And from what I understand our cars like to be run lean.

lean is bad. if you cant be in the middle(stoich, spelling?) then you should be rich. from what i understand our cars came from the factory running rich? someone tell me if im wrong.

[charles]

Well, any car is gonna gain performance by running lean. The problem is you have to avoid detonation. So it would probably be better just to say, the Protege could benefit from a slightly leaner fuel curve, but you never want to be totally "lean." The 3rd gens are rich as hell, but I think the first gen has a somewhat decent map stock. Only real way to tell would be a wideband, though.

[Gen1GT]

Ok, by lean I mean closer to stoichiometric ie 14.7:1. I've dyno tuned my car on 4 separated occasions, and it always makes best power when it's running warm and lean. Our car likes rich (say 12:1) below 4000rpm and likes to be lean(14:1) above 6000rpm. (this is why an aftermarket computer is important)

When I first installed my RX7 AFM, I had it running great and smooth, but WAY too rich. I was down on power from before the install(114.9hp down to 107hp). I was probably running 10:1 air/fuel. WAY too rich for an NA car. We leaned it way out by tightening the flapper door tension, much tighter than we though would make power. Finally got 117.2@6600, a gain of 2.3 at peak, and I got 5hp at 7000rpm. I also raised peak torque and got 5hp at 2700rpm.

Now this is the problem. When a car is running rich, it's running WELL, because it runs cool and smoothly. So you could be under the impression you're up on power.

[Loco_R]

so if i move the wheel of the vaf so the dorr could be tighten about 2 clicks from the stock click it will run lean but faster!... also guys here in panama we dont have dynos!

[zorlac7]

those cams i'm almost sure aren't 280º..most probably are around 250º-260º

a mild setup.