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    In search of engine mounts

    So the Mazda dealer still swears up and down that there's nothing wrong with my car, but it still feels to me like the engine is flopping around in a bucket of Jello. Basically, if this is the way it's "supposed" to be, it's time to make a small mod.

    I've been reading up on the AWR engine mounts. Better control, not as "rubber-band-y," and a slight increase in NVH, which I don't mind. And the price is pretty reasonable.
    I have 2 questions: First, the AWR mounts are just the front and rear mounts, not the passenger-side or the top-of-tranny mount. Will changing to urethane mounts in 2 places cause problems with rubber mounts in the other 2? Put them under extra stress, anything like that?
    Second, is there a better way to go about this? Is there another company's products I should be considering?
    ~Mark.
    2002 Protege DX 5 speed, "Kenmore White," well-loved and a little over half paid-for

    #2
    Do you have to pull the engine to change the mounts?

    Comment


      #3
      No, not according to what I've read. The front mount is a 10 minute job, and the the rear is a real PITA, but it can be done.
      ~Mark.
      2002 Protege DX 5 speed, "Kenmore White," well-loved and a little over half paid-for

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        #4
        PITA to do yourself or PITA for anyone including pros?

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          #5
          you can also upgrade the #3 (passanger side) mount to the mazdaspeed one. it is expensive ($150)
          <img src="http://www.moccforums.com/alan/uclap5sig.jpg">

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            #6
            I just changed mine out this past weekend. I would suggest doing at LEAST the front mount. It is quite easy. The rear one is a bitch. There are a couple of tricks that once you figure out make it much easier, like getting the wire harness out of the way, and using 2 10" socket extensions. There are a lot of threads about it here and at mazdamp3.com.

            I wouldn't think that changing all four mounts would make much difference. The way the engine bucks is front to rear, so the other two (car's left and right) are on the axis of sympathetic rotation. I am sure there are technical terms for this, but I don't know them. Think of it this way: the engine has spinning components, and thanks to a certain law of thermodynamics (#2?) for every action there is a reaction. So, as energy is applied to get the pistons moving, there is energy applied in the opposite direction on the engine, which in the Pro's case is front and rear oriented, meaning the front and rear mounts handle the engine bucking.

            I could be completely off my rocker as this is simply by deducing, and deducing by a person with very limited automotive skills. Take it for what it's worth.
            My MAM SS Kit Install Thread | Gauge Customization kit - LEDs, icons, more! Sample:

            Replacement Stainless Steel Hex Screws for your AWR swaybar! now 19mm AND 21.5mm!

            99 ES 1.8 | Highlight Silver Metallic | shaved mouldings | DaveB's Brushed Gauge Rings | Llumar Tint charcoal 35 side, 20 rear; smoked mirror 18 moonroof | clear corners
            JVC deck w/ Infinity Reference 5x7s and 6x9s, XM Radio via Custom Mount Delphi SkyFi | Rage Vigors 17x7 metal | Potenza RE750 215/40 rubber | Espilir springs
            AWR 21.5mm Sway Bar w/adjustable endlinks & Trailing Links & Front/Rear Engine Mounts | Custom Fiberglass hood from Maz1.8T | 626 Wiper Stalk

            C-17 Pilot--Jonathan--ProTuner

            Comment


              #7
              lol, I believe you're talking about Newton's laws relating to physics, not thermodynamics, but then again I could be wrong.

              edit: I'm beginning to second guess myself, but I'm not sure
              Last edited by 95ProLeila; 04-27-2004, 07:26 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                could be! that's why I'm a pilot, and my wife's the engineer. You don't happen to be an engineer, do you? cause there's lots of em around...

                Append my last post to read: and very limited scientifical skills
                My MAM SS Kit Install Thread | Gauge Customization kit - LEDs, icons, more! Sample:

                Replacement Stainless Steel Hex Screws for your AWR swaybar! now 19mm AND 21.5mm!

                99 ES 1.8 | Highlight Silver Metallic | shaved mouldings | DaveB's Brushed Gauge Rings | Llumar Tint charcoal 35 side, 20 rear; smoked mirror 18 moonroof | clear corners
                JVC deck w/ Infinity Reference 5x7s and 6x9s, XM Radio via Custom Mount Delphi SkyFi | Rage Vigors 17x7 metal | Potenza RE750 215/40 rubber | Espilir springs
                AWR 21.5mm Sway Bar w/adjustable endlinks & Trailing Links & Front/Rear Engine Mounts | Custom Fiberglass hood from Maz1.8T | 626 Wiper Stalk

                C-17 Pilot--Jonathan--ProTuner

                Comment


                  #9
                  no, your right, its Newtons laws not thermodynmics, thermodynamics is the way heat is transfered....

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thought so. . . the whole "Thermo" thing, but I think they're related. . . as far as engineering. . . hell no, Music Tech major

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I understand what you mean. I remember a little bit of physics from high school (very little, though...) I just know that fixing one weak link causes something else to become the new weakest link (Goodbye!) and I was wondering what that next weakest link was.
                      I'm going to go ahead and order the mounts in a week or so, next paycheck.
                      ~Mark.
                      2002 Protege DX 5 speed, "Kenmore White," well-loved and a little over half paid-for

                      Comment


                        #12
                        good stuff, be sure to post results

                        Comment


                          #13
                          AWR M/T mount are way too rigid from what I hear; I went with the A/T mounts, which are softer durometer. Still waiting to install them.

                          Other option is to fill the voids in the existing motor mounts with 3M "Window Weld"; its a urethane caulk used to seal windshield glass, available at NAPA Auto. Do a google search and you'll find some how-tos that have been posted on various forums.
                          Officially Sponsored by www.ProtegeGarage.com

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Are the AT and MT mounts identical except for the firmness?
                            ~Mark.
                            2002 Protege DX 5 speed, "Kenmore White," well-loved and a little over half paid-for

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mark 02dx
                              Are the AT and MT mounts identical except for the firmness?
                              Absolutely correct. The only difference are the inserts, which have different durometer ratings. I believe the M/T are about a 92-94 durometer, and the A/T are an 88. Anyone correct if I'm wrong please.
                              Officially Sponsored by www.ProtegeGarage.com

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