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HElP please! unpredictable steering, HELP ball joint? help

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    HElP please! unpredictable steering, HELP ball joint? help

    okay so first off
    I have a 92 protege lx
    when i first got it, under higherspeed corners when i adjusted the line at all
    it would jerk over, it felt like the tires were folding over onto there sidewalls
    i got alot of steering and traction, but it was really sudden and scary

    so i eventually replaced the tires, with new 195 65's
    when i got it alligned after, they found my nearly torn off CV boot

    so i got that replaced eventually, but now the problems worse
    under cornering the is a click or pop noise, when the wheel is turned all the way in either direction or when turning over hills or bumpy road

    when the car acclerates the steering wheel pulls itsels 3 inches or so to the right the car still goes pretty straight and then when i shift i pull it back, and it "pops" back into the straight position, it will stay there and travel straight
    but the pop is very sudden

    under cornering , the steering will feel "numb" initally, then it will get all its sterring and grip back, but its sudden and scary. its hard to drive and not very enjoyable
    but its usually only when im going slightly fast
    i can go slow and almost not notice it

    but i want to enjoy and auto cross the car

    Im willing to replace the ball joints, if thats it, but are the ball joints the entire shaft or just the endlink?
    what is that shaft that is next to the cv axle and has boots on each end ?
    because when looking at it the boot closest to the engine seems to have been replaced and is held on with wire tie or something

    i realy need some help and ideas?

    it seems bad usually when the right side is under load
    like right hand corners are alright

    but i want the car to be more progressive
    and normal
    how can i do that?

    #2
    i had a problem like this. then i floored it, it would torque steer to the right really bad.

    it was because my right axle was sticking. the axle can look fine, boots not torn or anything, and the axle can still be bad. a sticking axle can cause the car to pull to one side.
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      #3
      how are the tie rods? take off the wheel and wiggle the hub check for play, left and right play is your tie bar, up and down is the.. lca? this correct? I'm suffering from the same problem, except I KNOW it's my driver side outer tie rod it wiggles like hell lol. advance auto sells new ones for like $20 each
      00 dakota 4x4
      90 crx si - ls/vtec

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by ne3ek
        how are the tie rods? take off the wheel and wiggle the hub check for play, left and right play is your tie bar, up and down is the.. lca? this correct? I'm suffering from the same problem, except I KNOW it's my driver side outer tie rod it wiggles like hell lol. advance auto sells new ones for like $20 each
        Checking the tie rods should be done with the wheel on the ground.
        Or with a jackstand under the control arm.

        Up and down is usually the wheel bearing.
        Ball joints..................
        Not sure if this is correct for FWD, but on some types of suspension you chck them with a jackstand under the lower control arm, and put a prybar between the LCA and the part that attaches to the ball joint.
        Last edited by midnightblue97; 07-06-2004, 07:24 PM.
        Ryan The middle child is always ignored
        BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
        Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

        Comment


          #5
          well guys
          I replaced the right axle
          and it pulls right...i would replace the left one but i'm not positive its the problem
          I was thinking of switching to a 323
          and taking all the cool LX parts and put them on it
          cause my cars from ohio, and all rusty on the bottom but little actual body rust
          very little actually
          and the paint is nice but it was in an accident
          and the body work was done really poorly
          like theres an area of matte black paint on the right rear
          and when i baught the car it had the 90-91 tailight on the right side
          and the gas tank leaks when its filled up, and the trunk leaks because of the repair
          and it leaks a little between the sunroof and the winsheild
          and it makes squeeky noises sometimesinthe front suspension
          and i want to replace the bushings
          and i dont have a muffler

          so sould i jsut get a 323 and then swap the brakes and engine and wheels onto that?
          i hear its lighter and more rigid
          i want to autocross
          and replace my bushings and have an exaust and AC
          but i dont want to keep putting money into a car if i should give up on it before im to invested
          so keeping that in mind
          should i try and replace the left axle myself?
          consitering it would go with me to a theoritical 323 swap?


          but it does seem to pull left kind of too, and there are noises comming from taht side now
          uhm
          but i figure i can get a nice 323 for 500 or so
          also i devised a plan to replace the 1.6 sohc into the protege with the crappy wheels and brakes
          and selling it to recoup costs
          uhm
          so opinions on that and hard facts on the suspension/drivetrain issue

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by TheMAN
            your axle is toast, get a new one

            also check your caster settings on the alignment
            I didn't think it was possible to adjust the caster on these cars.......
            Ryan The middle child is always ignored
            BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
            Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

            Comment


              #7
              this sounds very familiar. *scratches head*
              cone filter, pacesetter shortshifter, 15 in. used slicks on stock steelies, dropped with zx2 struts and eibach springs, custom crush bent 2 1/2 inch piping, catco freeflow cat, DTM muffler, cams n turbo UNDERWAY.

              Comment


                #8
                could it be my power steering rack?
                should i change it to manual steering?
                and just ditch the power steering an pump?

                i think the steering links are what i was talking about
                with the boots on the end cuase the steering gets off track more than the power

                does that make sence?
                Last edited by ChrisKory; 07-09-2004, 03:25 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  okay,
                  i need some help for real
                  I think my rack and pinion needs replacing
                  most of the problems i'm having seem to match that diganosis

                  i was leaking power steering fluid, which is dirty and brown
                  even though i replaced it
                  when the car is stopped, and i slowly turn the wheel to the left
                  there is a creeking noise, it creeks as i turn it left, turning right there is a little noise but not as loud

                  there is also a creek noise when the suspension goes under any compression
                  like a speed bump, or when you push down on the front of the car
                  its *creek* on the way up and down
                  only on the left side though

                  the same side the steering creeking comes from
                  and the same side that has sloppy steering response
                  both sides are bad though

                  QUESTION
                  is the creeking noise from the tie rod ends/ steering rod things?
                  is the rack and pinion replacement in order

                  im planning on swapping it to a manual steering R&P
                  and a forum member is selling one used
                  should i just invest the money in a new unit?
                  is this the problem im having?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    it's a 92, 12 years old, it's gonna be creaky if it wasn't given some TLC.

                    replace the tie rod ends, it's a cheap start. Tie rods are what the rack and Pinnion connects to the spindle with. Those are in plain view when the wheel is removed.

                    Ball joints connect the LCA to the spindle. You gotta get under the LCA to see these. Then run about $35-40 each at Kragen, Pep Boys etc. I'd say replace those too. THEN get an alignment. (~$50)

                    Total so far, ~$150ish

                    The jerking or unstable feeling you said you get when cornering hard, may be a result of blown struts. As if they are blown, your riding on all spring and no damping, the spring will give you that unstable jerky feeling. and your right, not fun at all.

                    Could also be your alignment is way off and there is uneven toe in/out settings between the left and right sides, this could explain your feeling of , there's grip, theres no grip, there's grip. Negative camber and toe out will give you a strange feeling, it takes some getting used to (and you will need to when you autox ) The steering wheel will seem under high load, then at a certain point near the end of it's travel, fell like it just goes limp (or numb) I dunno if this is just toe out, but thats the feeling i get with mass neg camber and a hair of toe out.

                    Keep the Protege.

                    oh, and ya, leave the wheel on. We have floating rotors. Meh, i guess you could lug nut the rotors in place...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      hum
                      i consiter putting just the tie rods on
                      but the steering feels like its the problem, like its slacking and leaking
                      is the actual R & P thing sealed inside? so it cant really be damaged?
                      and the tie rod ends the part that are usually the source of the problem
                      I just dont want to pay for tie rod ends and there install
                      if i only have to buy the new tie rod ends that come with a steering rack
                      when i have to replace it
                      i think the racks the problem, are used manual racks pretty reliable to buy?
                      or a waste of money?

                      the alligment is set to factory specs, its just never felt right. the struts are,
                      well at least relacements, it dosent feel bouncy over bumps and such so i dont think thats the problem
                      its sounds like coil springs, but i seriously doubt that
                      can the tie rod ends or any suspension components like the ball joints make those noises?
                      it jsut sounds to simmilar to the creeking noise when im stopped and turn the wheel to be diffrent things
                      its comming from teh left side, adn the car isnt under compression when i just slowly turn the wheel
                      but still a CREEEEEK noise
                      the same one over the bumps

                      humft, how much to install a new rack an pinion ?
                      anyone know, also, my front sway bay is not connected on one side
                      the bolts and bushings for that matter are old and one side just snapped i guess
                      i have new end link bushings and new bolts but i want the other sway bar bushings, the frame ones before i install them

                      Comment


                        #12
                        hum
                        if it were my steering rack
                        It would still have good feel right?
                        I'm thinking it might be my motor mounts????
                        how easy / cheap are those to replace?
                        i guess i'll eventually take it to a mechanic
                        but im low on funds

                        motor mounts?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by TheMAN
                          your axle is toast, get a new one

                          also check your caster settings on the alignment
                          I thought the same thing.... something similar happened to me. (Ran over a curb at 35mph and careened down a steep hill... it was foggy..... managed to not die or do serious damage to my car somehow, but alignment was screwed.) Check caster before you do anything else.
                          ~Mar.

                          Now say it with me... B-R-A-K-E.

                          Good job!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by midnightblue97
                            Checking the tie rods should be done with the wheel on the ground.
                            Or with a jackstand under the control arm.

                            Up and down is usually the wheel bearing.
                            Ball joints..................
                            Not sure if this is correct for FWD, but on some types of suspension you chck them with a jackstand under the lower control arm, and put a prybar between the LCA and the part that attaches to the ball joint.
                            DEF NOT needed for my car. I'd take a video but I'm way too lazy, my tie rod is shot, you can wiggle away at it forever and the steering wheel wont move a 10th of a millimeter. If everything goes well, I'll be replacing it tomorrow.
                            00 dakota 4x4
                            90 crx si - ls/vtec

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I had a similar problem... while turning to the right once the weight transfer set in my car would make a pop! and pull like crazy, anyway that problem combined with wet roads eventually caused me to take the ditch! ( not a place I recommend going!) turned out to be a broken front spring which I replaced along with ****load of damaged parts...take it easy till ya get that problem solved
                              '91 Mazda Protege GT/ Completely re-built engine w/.020 head shave, intake/exhaust P&P & 3 angle valve job, 2.25 full custom exhaust, RX-7 AFM, K&N Cone, 18* Timing advance, exhintake cam mod w/Fly'n Miata adjustables, Custom short shifter, CenterForce clutch, lightened flywheel, HAWK pads on all 4, Motegi Racing 8 spoke 16"s w/205/45/ZR16 rubber, VentShade window visors, lower lip spoiler, 4" driving lights w/halo's. MX-3 center console & Black carpet swap w/2 layers dynomat type insulation.
                              Soon to come... Garret T25 turbo, DSM injectors, GTX ecu (Needed) SAFC (Needed) FMIC (Needed)

                              '91 Toyota Soarer GT-TL/ Stock 1JZ-GTE, K&N drop in filter, Gewalt Evolution deep dish 17"s, Nardi steering wheel

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