I used Red Line oil (SAE 10W-30 as specified in the FSM). Red Line is one of the "true" synthetic oils and is readily available at a performance shop near my house. It cost me US $7.50/qt and comes in a container that allows pouring directly into the engine without a funnel. For more information on this topic, check out this post by TheMAN:
www2.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32904&page=2&highlight=mobil+horse**** (post #24)
TheMAN points out that the FEDS allow an oil to be called synthetic even if it has some organic content. True synthetics, like Red Line, use Ester base stocks only, while Mobil 1 and Amsoil use PAO base stocks which are derived from mineral oils in the production process.
The beneficial characteristics of synthetic oils have been well-documented so I won't repeat them here. My own experience after the changeover was that the engine idled slightly more quietly and revved more smoothly throughout the RPM range. I also felt that acceleration was improved and the engine generally felt more responsive. This is to be expected since synthetic oil, by reducing internal engine friction, produces an increase in BHP in comparison with mineral oil.
Indicated HP (IHP) - HP used to overcome internal engine friction (also known as Friction HP) = BHP (aka crank HP or SAE net HP). How much the HP is increased and how noticeable it will be is another matter entirely. However, every little bit helps.
I used the std OEM oil filter since I had one available. Next time, I'll switch to the larger 6 cylinder OEM filter. According to the FSM, oil and filter replacement requires 3.7 qts. I put in 3 qts of oil and then used a glass measuring cup to add an additional 23 oz (.7 qt = 22.4 oz). This brought the level right up to the mark on the first attempt.
With all the advantages of synthetic oil, performance and otherwise, I think its use ought to be considered for our engines.
www2.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32904&page=2&highlight=mobil+horse**** (post #24)
TheMAN points out that the FEDS allow an oil to be called synthetic even if it has some organic content. True synthetics, like Red Line, use Ester base stocks only, while Mobil 1 and Amsoil use PAO base stocks which are derived from mineral oils in the production process.
The beneficial characteristics of synthetic oils have been well-documented so I won't repeat them here. My own experience after the changeover was that the engine idled slightly more quietly and revved more smoothly throughout the RPM range. I also felt that acceleration was improved and the engine generally felt more responsive. This is to be expected since synthetic oil, by reducing internal engine friction, produces an increase in BHP in comparison with mineral oil.
Indicated HP (IHP) - HP used to overcome internal engine friction (also known as Friction HP) = BHP (aka crank HP or SAE net HP). How much the HP is increased and how noticeable it will be is another matter entirely. However, every little bit helps.
I used the std OEM oil filter since I had one available. Next time, I'll switch to the larger 6 cylinder OEM filter. According to the FSM, oil and filter replacement requires 3.7 qts. I put in 3 qts of oil and then used a glass measuring cup to add an additional 23 oz (.7 qt = 22.4 oz). This brought the level right up to the mark on the first attempt.
With all the advantages of synthetic oil, performance and otherwise, I think its use ought to be considered for our engines.
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