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    Basic Haltech wireing to a BP engine.

    Enjoy.

    This should work with the E6K and E6X

    Unplug the ECU and remove it from the vehicle. Clip all tie downs and unbolt all bolts holding any of the loom to the chassis. Pull the loom out from the engine bay through the firewall. This does not need to be done if you wish to keep cruise control or factory idle.

    Note: Some wire colors may vary, I have tried to spot them all and note them but it may differ on your harness.

    Haltech E6K Install Notes

    Fuel Injectors

    Batch Fire (Optional)
    Batch fire is only for people who need to use the extra Digital Outputs on the E6K. This mode fires the two banks of injectors alternately, i.e. 1+2 fire, 3+4 fire. This in term is like waste-spark but with fuel. You will always be injecting 1 cylinder with un-needed fuel.

    Haltech BP-Turbo

    INJ-1 (LIGHT BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-1 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
    INJ-2 (BLUE / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-3 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
    INJ-3 (GREEN / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-4 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)
    INJ-4 (PINK | +13.8V) Cylinder-2 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)

    Sequential (Recommended)
    Sequential injection allows fuel to be delivered to the engine at a time that produces best combustion. Since this time is different for each cylinder, sequential systems inject fuel at different engine angles for each cylinder. This means better gas mileage and smooth idle!

    Haltech BP-Turbo

    INJ-1 (LIGHT BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-1 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
    DIG-2 (WHITE / BLACK | +13.8V) Cylinder-3 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
    INJ-3 (GREEN / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-4 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)
    DIG-1 (BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-2 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)


    Ignition / Distributor

    Factory Ignition
    When using the factory ignition setup the Ignition Setup to the following settings:

    Trigger Input: Rising Edge
    Trigger Output: Falling Edge
    Fires on: Falling Edge
    Constant Charge
    Charge time is 3.0ms.

    Haltech BP-Turbo
    Trigger Input Harness Distributor Harness

    Ground (BLACK) Ground (BLACK / LIGHT GREEN)
    Trigger (YELLOW) Trigger (WHITE)
    Home (GREEN) Home (YELLOW / BLUE)
    +13.8V inj (RED) +13.8V inj (WHITE / RED)

    Haltech BP-Turbo
    Ignition Output Igniter | Coil
    This can get tricky so follow along closely

    Ignition Output (LIGHT GREEN) Igniter + (GREEN / WHITE)
    Ground (BLACK) Igniter - (BLACK / ORANGE)
    Condenser - (BLACK / ORANGE)
    Igniter>Coil + (Merge YELLOW/BLUE)

    Haltech BP-Turbo
    This is for using the stock ECU harness and leaving the ignition circuit intact.
    LIGHT GREEN (GREEN / WHITE)

    Using an MSD 6A
    Change the charge time to 1.0ms and the Firing Edge to Rising.

    Haltech MSD
    Ignition Output 6A

    Ignition Output (LIGHT GREEN) Trigger (WHITE)

    Factory Coil Blaster Coil
    Coil + (YELLOW / BLUE) Coil + (Small ORANGE)
    Coil - (BLACK / ORANGE) Coil - (Small BLACK)


    External Sensors

    Throttle Position Sensor
    The factory GTX TPS can be used in place of the haltech sensor if you do not want to fabricate the appropriate mount, or do not have a “D” shaft type throttle body. The automatic transmission TPS from the Escort GT or Protégé LX will be the same.
    Note: Each TPS sensor requires a different throttle body.

    4-wire GTX (or Automatic) Haltech

    +5 Volt (RED / GREEN) +5 Volt (ORANGE)
    Throttle % (GREEN / WHITE) Throttle % (GREEN)
    Ground (BLACK / BROWN) Ground (BLACK)
    Idle Switch (RED / WHITE) Ground (BLACK)

    Oxygen Sensor
    If you are using the Haltech 4-wire o2 sensor or a standard 4-wire Bosch o2 sensor the following wiring diagram will suit you. To retain the use of the factory 4-wire o2 found on most GTX and N/A motors use the second diagram, you will need to retain your factory harness for this to work properly.

    4-wire GM / Bosch Haltech

    Heater + (WHITE) +13.8 V (GREY / RED)
    O2 Signal (BLACK) o2 Signal (GREY)
    O2 Ground (GREY) Ground (BLACK)
    Heater - (WHITE) Ground (BLACK)

    Factory 4-Wire Haltech

    O2 Signal (RED / BLUE) O2 Signal (GREY)

    Cooling Fan Relay
    Be careful when hooking this up, always use a Ground to test this wire with the key on. If the fan comes on then it is ok to hookup the PWM to it. The settings for most cars are:

    On Temp: 190
    Off Temp: 180

    *Using a 180F Thermostat.

    Factory Wiring Haltech

    Relay Ground (BLACK / GREEN) PWM 1 (VIOLET / WHITE)

    Boost Control Solenoid
    There are three parts to the solenoid, one is the wastegate inlet, one is the manifold pressure inlet and one is the breather. You may have to switch the wastegate and manifold lines according to which way you hook up the BCS wires. PWM Settings are:

    Period: 33mhz.
    Use Wastegate: MAP 1
    Boost Cut: 12

    Boost Solenoid Haltech

    Solenoid + (RED) +13.8 V Power (RED)
    Solenoid - (BLACK) PWM 2 (PINK / BLACK)

    BAC Valve
    The BAC valve works in conjunction with the ISC (Idle Speed Control) valve on this motor. From 0-104F the wax inside the ISC starts to melt allowing more air into the manifold. There are two settings to this and they vary for every car, they are below:

    Input/Output
    Idle Speed Control: DISABLED
    Target Idle Speed: 1000
    Cold-Idle Up: 200
    Start RPM: 200
    Number of Steps: 100
    Cold Temp Limit: 104F
    Cold Min Pos: 78 *varies
    Hot Min Pos: 77 *varies
    Cold Open: 10
    Hot Open: 20

    PWM 3
    Period: 10ms.

    BAC Valve Haltech

    BAC + (WHITE / RED) +13.8 V Power (RED)
    BAC - (BLUE / ORANGE) PWM 3 (BLUE / GREEN)

    #2
    seeing as im new to this i only understand parts of it, but im catching on.
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by bpt323 View Post
      seeing as im new to this i only understand parts of it, but im catching on.
      It's scary the first time, but not that bad.

      Comment


        #4
        I haven't been scared with my car in awhile! i think im up for it
        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

        Comment


          #5
          Hmmm, I found that a dwell time (charge time) of 3.1 or 3.2 ms gave slightly better spark at high loads (aka boost or high compression) than 3.0 ms. You don't want to go too much higher than this, but the spark coil shouldn't get too hot with this setting. It should help give a bit more powerful spark in these conditions.

          Not correcting you, just mentioning that it's safe to go a bit higher if you're having trouble sparking up there at all.

          EDIT: With the PWM idle valve, mine was noisy as hell at 80 Hz (12.5 ms PWM period), which is not far away from your 100 Hz (10 ms PWM period). If it makes a racket, try setting the PWM period down to 6 ms (which is about 170 Hz). That should quiet the motor inside it down. It's a constant motion servo inside it, and if the period is too slow, it'll start to return to its off position before the next signal comes in. This makes it hum really obnoxiously loud. If you can set the PWM period down to that, try it... it might make it quieter.
          Last edited by matt_fulghum; 07-03-2007, 09:05 AM.
          Ask me about engine management!

          Comment


            #6
            I've been using a dwell of 3.8 IIRC on my blaster SS coil without any ill effects.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by matt_fulghum View Post
              .

              Not correcting you,
              I did say basic, so feel free to add in your two cents.

              Comment


                #8
                E6X wiring

                I wired up an E6X id just like anyone else who wants to wire it not
                to make the same mistakes I did and flood a cylinder with gas.

                Installing a Haltech E6K on your Mazda BP Motor

                Preparing your motor prior to the install will take a little bit of time, but will be well worth it. Follow most of my instructions and you should be up and running in no time.

                Factory Harness Removal (Optional)

                Unplug the ECU and remove it from the vehicle. Clip all tie downs and unbolt all bolts holding any of the loom to the chassis. Pull the loom out from the engine bay through the firewall. This does not need to be done if you wish to keep cruise control or factory idle.

                Note: Some wire colors may vary, I have tried to spot them all and note them but it may differ on your harness, please alert me via e-mail if you find any discrepancies in colors at Braden@barelylegaltransplants.com.

                Haltech E6K Install Notes

                Fuel Injectors

                Batch Fire E6K (Optional) E6X - Sequential wired as below (WIRE AS BELOW FOR E6X)
                Batch fire is only for people who need to use the extra Digital Outputs on the E6K. This mode fires the two banks of injectors alternately, i.e. 1+2 fire, 3+4 fire. This in term is like waste-spark but with fuel. You will always be injecting 1 cylinder with un-needed fuel.


                Haltech BP-Turbo

                INJ-1 (LIGHT BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-1 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
                INJ-2 (BLUE / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-3 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
                INJ-3 (GREEN / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-4 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)
                INJ-4 (PINK | +13.8V) Cylinder-2 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)

                Sequential E6K (Recommended) E6X - DO NOT NOT NOT WIRE E6X AS BELOW
                Sequential injection allows fuel to be delivered to the engine at a time that produces best combustion. Since this time is different for each cylinder, sequential systems inject fuel at different engine angles for each cylinder. This means better gas mileage and smooth idle!


                Haltech BP-Turbo

                INJ-1 (LIGHT BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-1 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
                DIG-2 (WHITE / BLACK | +13.8V) Cylinder-3 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
                INJ-3 (GREEN / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-4 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)
                DIG-1 (BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-2 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)


                Ignition / Distributor

                Factory Ignition
                When using the factory ignition setup the Ignition Setup to the following settings:

                Trigger Input: Rising Edge
                Trigger Output: Falling Edge
                Fires on: Falling Edge
                Constant Charge
                Charge time is 3.0ms.


                Haltech BP-Turbo
                Trigger Input Harness Distributor Harness

                Ground (BLACK) Ground (BLACK / LIGHT GREEN)
                Trigger (YELLOW) Trigger (WHITE)
                Home (GREEN) Home (YELLOW / BLUE)
                +13.8V inj (RED) +13.8V inj (WHITE / RED)

                Haltech BP-Turbo
                Ignition Output Igniter | Coil
                This can get tricky so follow along closely

                Ignition Output (LIGHT GREEN) Igniter + (GREEN / WHITE)
                Ground (BLACK) Igniter - (BLACK / ORANGE)
                Condenser - (BLACK / ORANGE)
                Igniter>Coil + (Merge YELLOW/BLUE)

                Haltech BP-Turbo
                This is for using the stock ECU harness and leaving the ignition circuit intact.
                LIGHT GREEN (GREEN / WHITE)

                E6X-
                If retaining stock distributor, wire in aux out Green/Black wire to Yellow/Blue wire
                and set to Tach out and 0-12v.


                Using an MSD 6A
                Change the charge time to 1.0ms and the Firing Edge to Rising.


                Haltech MSD
                Ignition Output 6A

                Ignition Output (LIGHT GREEN) Trigger (WHITE)

                Factory Coil Blaster Coil
                Coil + (YELLOW / BLUE) Coil + (Small ORANGE)
                Coil - (BLACK / ORANGE) Coil - (Small BLACK)


                External Sensors

                Throttle Position Sensor
                The factory GTX TPS can be used in place of the haltech sensor if you do not want to fabricate the appropriate mount, or do not have a “D” shaft type throttle body. The automatic transmission TPS from the Escort GT or Protégé LX will be the same.
                Note: Each TPS sensor requires a different throttle body.


                4-wire GTX (or Automatic) Haltech

                +5 Volt (RED / GREEN) +5 Volt (ORANGE)
                Throttle % (GREEN / WHITE) Throttle % (GREEN)
                Ground (BLACK / BROWN) Ground (BLACK)
                Idle Switch (RED / WHITE) Ground (BLACK)

                Oxygen Sensor
                If you are using the Haltech 4-wire o2 sensor or a standard 4-wire Bosch o2 sensor the following wiring diagram will suit you. To retain the use of the factory 4-wire o2 found on most GTX and N/A motors use the second diagram, you will need to retain your factory harness for this to work properly.


                4-wire GM / Bosch Haltech

                Heater + (WHITE) +13.8 V (GREY / RED)
                O2 Signal (BLACK) o2 Signal (GREY)
                O2 Ground (GREY) Ground (BLACK)
                Heater - (WHITE) Ground (BLACK)

                Factory 4-Wire Haltech

                O2 Signal (RED / BLUE) O2 Signal (GREY)

                Cooling Fan Relay
                Be careful when hooking this up, always use a Ground to test this wire with the key on. If the fan comes on then it is ok to hookup the PWM to it. The settings for most cars are:

                On Temp: 190
                Off Temp: 180

                *Using a 180F Thermostat.


                Factory Wiring Haltech

                Relay Ground (BLACK / GREEN) PWM 1 (VIOLET / WHITE)

                Boost Control Solenoid
                There are three parts to the solenoid, one is the wastegate inlet, one is the manifold pressure inlet and one is the breather. You may have to switch the wastegate and manifold lines according to which way you hook up the BCS wires. PWM Settings are:

                Period: 33mhz.
                Use Wastegate: MAP 1
                Boost Cut: 12


                Boost Solenoid Haltech

                Solenoid + (RED) +13.8 V Power (RED)
                Solenoid - (BLACK) PWM 2 (PINK / BLACK)

                BAC Valve
                The BAC valve works in conjunction with the ISC (Idle Speed Control) valve on this motor. From 0-104F the wax inside the ISC starts to melt allowing more air into the manifold. There are two settings to this and they vary for every car, they are below:

                Input/Output
                Idle Speed Control: DISABLED
                Target Idle Speed: 1000
                Cold-Idle Up: 200
                Start RPM: 200
                Number of Steps: 100
                Cold Temp Limit: 104F
                Cold Min Pos: 78 *varies
                Hot Min Pos: 77 *varies
                Cold Open: 10
                Hot Open: 20

                PWM 3
                Period: 10ms.


                BAC Valve Haltech

                BAC + (WHITE / RED) +13.8 V Power (RED)
                BAC - (BLUE / ORANGE) PWM 3 (BLUE / GREEN)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hi guys,
                  I just purchased the haltech sport 1000 for my mazda BP 1.8l turbo. Is the wiring diagram also same as explained for the E6K and E6X ?
                  I'm a new guy with this great ecu, are there any photos/diagram/web that i can refer to, how to assemble the individual coil?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Wiring diagram is not the same but the flying lead on the Sport 1000 is way better than what you ever got with the E6 ECUs.

                    That said, there isn't a guide out there that i'm aware of for installing on a BP. If you get the factory wiring diagram, should be pretty easy to match up to the flying lead.

                    What about the coils specifically are you asking?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yes, i have the factory wiring diagram for my mazda. i'll refer to it. Thanks for remembering it to me.

                      I'm not quiet sure which type of coil i will use.....as long as it easy to assemble/modify to my engine...but take a look at this photo:
                      Click image for larger version

Name:	BP 1.8 turbo stand alone ecu.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	110.7 KB
ID:	1233985

                      I wanna to modify like this engine, but i need the figure/diagram how to do it, which wire i should use/don't use... i mean every thing... . "do it yourself" is the best way. lol. Please help me. I know out there many modifying heroes can help people like me.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Drooling over that engine bay. Make a worklog. would love to see what all is done to your ride. don't make a lost in this thread.
                        1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
                        1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
                        2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
                        2010 VW routon

                        Originally posted by jay
                        .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          those almost look like GM coil packs from like a 3.8 or something...
                          sigpic

                          03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
                          92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I think the GM coilpack upgrade on the miata, and using the miata CAS is fairly common, isn't it?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Dunno. I thought a lot of them used DSM packs or Toyota COPs
                              sigpic

                              03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
                              92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

                              Comment

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