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    How-to Turbo your BP

    BP-05 Turbo install

    This is a write up of how I turboed my BP. There has been a few people who wanted to know how to do this, so here you guys go. I claim no responsibility for what you do to your car. This is a guideline; there are many different ways to do this.

    Turbo- VJ-20 from Corksport
    GTX exhaust manifold from Corksport

    gReddy intercooler piping set- This comes with various bends, couplers and clamps.
    Intercooler- Ford probe with relocated end tanks, like a FMIC
    BOV- TCC works, this was some generic one, it works and sounds pretty cool, vent to the atmosphere.

    Management
    Apexi SAFC air/fuel controller
    GTX injectors (330cc?)
    Walbro intake fuel pump from a 89 RX-7
    Jacobs boost master timing controller with boost activated retard
    Cartech FMU
    gReddy turbo timer

    Gauges
    Auto meter Boost, pyrometer, air/fuel

    Other items
    Silicon couplers 90 degree and one extra coupler for IC pipes
    Bolts, nuts, screws
    Tubing for coolant supply and return
    Plastic 3/8 inch T for coolant return

    OEM Mazda coolant nipple off block from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
    OEM Mazda banjo bolt for oil supply from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
    OEM Mazda oil supply pipe and connector from a 1989 323 GTX (USDM)
    Oil return flange from eBay
    Oil resistant tubing for oil return
    Oil sealant for oil pan

    Exhaust-Custom welded from the cast down pipe to the cat with a flex pipe between the DP and cat

    ACT Clutch part number ZP2-HDSS from Corksport

    NGK iridum plugs
    STI plug wires

    Before you think about turboing your BP, know what you are getting into. A turboed motor requires a lot more attention. If you treat it right and don’t do stupid things to it, it will be a really fun ride.
    First make sure your current motor is in good running condition. Do a compression test, check all seals, and replace things that look like they are old or worn. Basically be sure your engine can take the new loads of a turbo. The BP can take a lot of abuse(which I will get to later) but one that is not in good condition will die on you pretty fast. My motor had 179 psi in all cylinders and ran very very well.
    First off, get your turbo and manifold. From here it’s pretty easy to get things and get started.
    Unbolt your old manifold and remove it form the car. Before you put the turbo on, unbolt the blind plugs off the block for oil and coolant supply. Take a small screwdriver or something and stick it in the hole to remove any gunk that is in there. When I did this, the coolant al drained out of the engine, as did what oil was above the plug. Bolt in the coolant supply nipple.
    I tied the exhaust piping off to the side while I was putting in the turbo. Before I put in the turbo and manifold, I painted the manifold with high temp black paint because they tend to rust and look like crap. I also did this to the cast dump pipe that was sent with my turbo. Find some 8mm bolts to bolt the turbo to the manifold. I fount it easiest to bolt up the turbo to the manifold and get it in from the bottom of the car. It is helpful to have another pair of hands, but I did it by myself. Once you have it in bolt the manifold down.
    After you have the turbo and manifold on, get some high temp tubing for coolant supply and connect. Make sure you use some kind of a clamp at both ends. I had a few OEM Mazda clamps lying around that I got from the junkyard so I used them, but anything will work.
    For coolant return I put a T on a rubber hose that goes into the water pipe return near the throttle body area. I took off the hose, added an inch of tubing to one end, put the T in the middle, connected the other end to the existing tube, and then put the coolant return tube in. Works well and is pretty simple. Make sure you use clamps here as well.
    For oil supply, you will need the OEM banjo bolt and a new oil supply pipe and connector to the turbo housing. The one that was sent with mine was bent and leaked, so I bought a new one. Put the banjo bolt in, and start tightening it into the block. Tighten it until it is snug, but not really tight. Now take the other end and connect it to the turbo housing. Tighten this side down; I believe it was a ½ inch wrench that I used. Now tighten the banjo bolt. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN OR YOU WILL HAVE A BROKEN BANJO BOLT WITH THE THREADED PART IN THE BLOCK AND THE HEAD IN YOUR HAND!!!!!!) I over tightened mine and did this. After 2 days trying to mess with it, I took it to a shop; cost me 80 bucks to get it out.
    Oil return in pretty simple. Take your flange and eye up about where you want it and mark it. Take into consideration you will need to run a tube from the oil return flange on the turbo to the flange on the oil pan. Unbolt the oil pan. There are a lot of little bolts, all 10 or 12 mm I think. There are 4 on the transmission side that also need to be removed which are very long. Once you have it off, clean up the surfaces. Fine your marks and drill holes for the flange. Mine had the nipple, then two bolt holes. Once you have them drilled, clean ANY and ALL fragments of aluminum from the oil pan. Put some high temp sealant around the flange, be generous. Put more sealant around the oil pan and around the ends where the gasket is (or buy a new set) and bolt it back up. Make sure that your oil supply flange is above the oil level in the oil pan so it can flow freely back into the pan. Bolt everything down evenly with a criss-cross pattern to make sure it seats properly. Take the oil resistant tubing and connect the two flanges using clamps.
    Put in your injectors. This is pretty easy and straightforward. I adjusted the VAF 3 clicks counterclockwise to let it idle correctly. Also install your Walbro fuel pump. This is also pretty easy and straightforward
    Wire in your AFC or put in your FMU. Right now I am only running the AFC without the FMU. No pinging so far. I also have the timing controller that isn’t wired up, but should get to that eventually. Set timing to 8 degrees BTDC.
    Intercooler piping has many possibilities. I used a 90 degree aluminum elbow off the compressor housing with a bracket made up by a machine shop. I also got them to tap a hole for my waste gate source. Take the piping to the passenger side, make a 180 degree turn, then connect to the IC. Then I used a 45 degree bend an 90 degree bend, then it goes up with a piece that was from a probe which fit perfect to the throttle body. Get your BOV welded near the throttle body on this pipe. I used a T off a vacuum nipple on the intake manifold then ran a piece of tubing from there to the BOV. For piping from the compressor inlet to the VAF, I used a 90 degree coupler and a 45 degree bend. The 90* went from the compressor inlet to the 45, then a 2-3” reducer was used to connect the VAF and air filter.
    As far as I can remember this is what I have done. Tuning is biatch but the Apexi SAFC is pretty easy to work. When I got the car dynoed I was pining like a mo-fo, so we only got it up to 4000 RPM’s. After that I increased the fuel to 50% more at 3000RPM’s and up and it has helped a lot. Get a good clutch in there to hold the power, my factory one only lasted about a week if that.
    Hope this helps for all of those that wanted to know how to turbo their BP.
    BP-05 Turbo-Sold
    2004 MK4 AWP Jetta GLI

    #2
    greatly appreciated..

    Comment


      #3
      No prob. Sticky this people!!
      BP-05 Turbo-Sold
      2004 MK4 AWP Jetta GLI

      Comment


        #4
        How would you go about doing a low-boost, non-intercooled turbo? I'm not looking for more than 4-6psi... do you think i'd need bigger injectors and an FMU with that little boost?
        _________________________________
        '12 Focus SE hatch
        '04 Eddie Bauer V8 4X4 Explorer
        '05 Saab 9-3 turbo (sold)
        '90 Mazda 323 GT (sold)
        '04 Mazda Tribute (sold)
        '92 Mazda Protege LX (sold)
        '91 Mazda Protege LX (blown engine)
        '91 Honda Prelude (totalled)
        '91 Honda CRX SI (sold)

        Comment


          #5
          whats the mileage on your motor...BTW....and how is everything holding up thus far?

          Comment


            #6
            I have 140,000 miles on the motor, doesnt leak much oil and runs really well, about 5,000 on my tranny which was rebuilt last Christmas. Everything is running pretty well so far besides my clutch. That wil be going in early next week. Two weeks ago my air/fuel gauge stopped working and then a CEL was lit. I found out that it was running lean, hence the air/fuel not lighting up. It started working about 15 mins after that. I think that happened because my car was sitting for 5 days straight, so maybe that has to do with it, but its running fine now. Once I get the clutch in I will see what this thing can really do.

            As for a low boost non-intercooled set up, I am not really sure about that. I mean why wouldnt you want an intercooler, its just more stuff that will help your motor run better and not have a cahnce of breaking. Trying to only run 4-6psi you will need some kind of wastegate that will open then, and the VJ-20 opens at 8 or so. If your going to turbo I would go with an intercooler, just for your motors sake. As for fuel stuff, i'm not really sure, but I would upgrade just for safty sake.
            BP-05 Turbo-Sold
            2004 MK4 AWP Jetta GLI

            Comment


              #7
              thanks for the write up..
              Somebody sticky it!..
              Past: 1994 White Protege DX ~DEAD~

              Current: 05' Onyx Black Mazda 6 'S' ~Bone Stock~


              Originally posted by TheMAN
              you MUST keep in mind the 2nd gen is the bastard child of the proteges...

              Comment


                #8
                good write up.
                The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                Comment


                  #9
                  info greatly apreciated!
                  '91 Mazda Protege GT/ Completely re-built engine w/.020 head shave, intake/exhaust P&P & 3 angle valve job, 2.25 full custom exhaust, RX-7 AFM, K&N Cone, 18* Timing advance, exhintake cam mod w/Fly'n Miata adjustables, Custom short shifter, CenterForce clutch, lightened flywheel, HAWK pads on all 4, Motegi Racing 8 spoke 16"s w/205/45/ZR16 rubber, VentShade window visors, lower lip spoiler, 4" driving lights w/halo's. MX-3 center console & Black carpet swap w/2 layers dynomat type insulation.
                  Soon to come... Garret T25 turbo, DSM injectors, GTX ecu (Needed) SAFC (Needed) FMIC (Needed)

                  '91 Toyota Soarer GT-TL/ Stock 1JZ-GTE, K&N drop in filter, Gewalt Evolution deep dish 17"s, Nardi steering wheel

                  sigpic

                  Do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewing of your mind!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by elscotto80
                    As for a low boost non-intercooled set up, I am not really sure about that. I mean why wouldnt you want an intercooler, its just more stuff that will help your motor run better and not have a cahnce of breaking. Trying to only run 4-6psi you will need some kind of wastegate that will open then, and the VJ-20 opens at 8 or so. If your going to turbo I would go with an intercooler, just for your motors sake. As for fuel stuff, i'm not really sure, but I would upgrade just for safty sake.

                    Well a non-intercooled/low-boost setup would have very little lag (less charge piping) and would take up less space under the hood. Air-air intercoolers aren't very efficient at low boost levels and the performance/reliability gain would be negligable under 6psi.

                    I'm just wondering whether the stock fuel/ignition is up to the task of handling 6psi, the Protege isn't my race car... I just want it to have a little extra "zoom".
                    _________________________________
                    '12 Focus SE hatch
                    '04 Eddie Bauer V8 4X4 Explorer
                    '05 Saab 9-3 turbo (sold)
                    '90 Mazda 323 GT (sold)
                    '04 Mazda Tribute (sold)
                    '92 Mazda Protege LX (sold)
                    '91 Mazda Protege LX (blown engine)
                    '91 Honda Prelude (totalled)
                    '91 Honda CRX SI (sold)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Personally I have no idea if its up to the task, I would just upgrade for the sake of a safe setup. And how are air-air intercoolers not efficent at low boost? When i drive, I never hit anymore than 5 psi if that when I just drive around town. If you touch the cooled side of the IC pipes, they are much much colder than the hot side so somthing has to be working correctly.
                      BP-05 Turbo-Sold
                      2004 MK4 AWP Jetta GLI

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I don't think that 4-6psi would heat the intake charge enough to warrant all the extra parts and labor associated with an intercooler. I didn't really mean that they wouldn't be thermally efficient but that they wouldn't be very practical when running low boost.
                        _________________________________
                        '12 Focus SE hatch
                        '04 Eddie Bauer V8 4X4 Explorer
                        '05 Saab 9-3 turbo (sold)
                        '90 Mazda 323 GT (sold)
                        '04 Mazda Tribute (sold)
                        '92 Mazda Protege LX (sold)
                        '91 Mazda Protege LX (blown engine)
                        '91 Honda Prelude (totalled)
                        '91 Honda CRX SI (sold)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sounds alright to me. It was not that much extra labor putting in the IC pipes and IC. AHrdest part was getting the flange made and cutting 2'' pipes with only a dremel.
                          BP-05 Turbo-Sold
                          2004 MK4 AWP Jetta GLI

                          Comment


                            #14
                            great writeup, but what did you pay for your greddy intercooler piping set??? sounds expensive, i know i bought my piping from jc whitney, and only spent like 150 bux on all of it, and i had a ton of u bends,
                            .....HELLO MY NAME IS BEN...



                            186.08whp
                            225.94wtq
                            torque monster!!!!
                            dyno graph 8-10-and 12psi
                            http://www.msprotege.com/members/THE...no%20graph.jpg
                            http://videos.streetfire.net/player....0-C19CA06AF01E dyno vid

                            blahblahblahblahblahblah

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Nice!

                              Where did you get your flange for the intake charge pipes made? How much did that run you? I've been searching for the possiblity to just buy one, but it looks like I need to get mine made


                              BTW, I have been working on my turbo project for a year now -- I've been getting into other things (Bought a camaro) and finally decided to finish her up I miss the protege.
                              Current Cars
                              2003 Nissan 350z. Touring Edition, Pike's Peak White and dark tint. Some audio work. Twin turbo swap and more audio work over the winter. Wheels and springs this winter.

                              Past Mazdas
                              1994 Mazda Protege DX. DOHC swap in progress. Sold due to a move
                              1992 Mazda Protege DX. BPT (GT-X) swap w. Haltech & MSD. Sold before it saw the road
                              1996 Ford Probe GT. Flawless. 5-speed. Kept stock. Sold for an LS1

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