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    Transmission Oil Specifications, BJ

    The American Petroleum Institute (API) Service rating of a transmission oil refers to the amount of EP (extreme pressure) additives it contains. An API Service GL-1 oil contains no EP additives and a GL-4 Service oil contains about 1/2 the additives of of a GL-5 Service oil. EP additives are composed mostly of sulfur/phosphorus compounds that can harm yellow metals such as copper or brass that are contained in some synchros. Protege synchros do not contain yellow metals and consequently, as clearly stated in the M/T section of the FSM, either GL-4 or GL-5 oils are completely safe to use. The API Service rating is completely independent of the viscosity rating, so for example, an SAE 75W-90 oil could have a GL-4 or a GL-5 or even a GL-1 Service rating.
    www.api.org/Standards

    According to the Lubrizol Corporation:
    API Category GL-4 designates the type of service characteristic of spiral-bevel and hypoid gears in automotive axles operated under moderate speeds and loads. These oils may be used in selected M/T and transaxle applications.

    API Category GL-5 designates the type of service characteristic of gears, particularly hypoids in automotive axles under high-speed and/or low-speed, high-torque conditions. Lubricants qualified under SAE J2360 also satisfy the requirements of the API GL-5 service designation.

    In point of fact, API categories GL-1, GL-2, GL-3, and GL-6 were declared inactive (obsolete) by an SAE Technical Committee in 1995, although oils may still be marketed with these designations. Concomitantly, ASTM International (American Society for Testing and Materials) does not plan to maintain the performance tests associated with these categories, as in a number of cases these tests can no longer be run because parts or test installations are not available.


    Manual Transmissions
    F25M-R (1.6 L ZM-DE and 1.8 L FP-DE Engines)
    G15M-R (2.0 L FS-DE and FS-DET Engines)

    The capacity is ~ 2.83 qts (2.68 L). The FSM specifies SAE 75W-90 (all season) or SAE 80W-90 if the temperature never falls below 50 deg F (10 deg C); API Service GL-4 or GL-5.

    Automatic Transmission
    FN4A-EL (all 3rd Gen Proteges)

    The capacity is 7.6 qts (7.2 L) after a complete fluid removal. The FSM specifies ATF type M-V or equivalent (e.g. Dexron III).

    ATF in Manual Transmissions?
    This is in reference to situations where the manufacturer does not specifically recommend its use. Apparently, some Forum members use ATF in their M/Ts. To begin with, I think it's a bad idea if for no other reason than it goes against OEM recommendations. Additionally, it's highly unlikely that ATF is an optimal lubricant for synchros which are absent from A/Ts. Red Line, for one, states that some ATFs may be too slippery for proper synchro engagement. Finally, I'm not sure if EP additives are even contained in most ATFs.

    If you insist on using ATF, you might consider Red Line D4 as the best choice only because it's rated as a GL-4 oil, one of the M/T oil requirements listed in the FSM. I'm not saying other ATFs aren't GL-4 or 5 rated, only that I have not yet found one listed as such.

    Happy Motoring!
    Last edited by goldstar; 01-27-2012, 10:51 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    Transmission Oil Change Intervals

    In my '02 FSM's Scheduled Maintenance Table, there is no mention of a mileage interval at which it is recommended that the transmission oil, either M/T or A/T, should be changed. This applies to both Schedule 1: (Normal driving conditions) U.S.A. and to Schedule 2: Canada, Puerto Rico and (Unique driving conditions) U.S.A.


    Manual Transmissions
    My Mazda dealer, whom I trust, recommends an oil change every 30,000 miles (or 24 months) and schedules it as part of the normal 30,000 mile maintenance (and multiples thereof). This interval also seems to be generally accepted, by consensus, on most Protege Forums.

    Automatic Transmissions
    The same dealer recommends an ATF change every 30,000 miles, as above. The Automatic Transaxle Fluid (ATF) Replacement section in the FSM specifies the proceedure as follows:
    1. Remove the oil dipstick.
    2. Remove the drain plug and washer from the transmission oil pan.
    3. Drain the ATF and replace the drain plug with a new washer.
    4. Top up with ATF through the oil filler tube to the lower notch of the dipstick.

    However, my Mazda dealer asserts that this proceedure is inadequate and that rather than just removing the ATF found in the bottom of the pan, the transmission and its torque converter should have all of their old, contaminated fluid removed and replaced with new ATF. This, of course, is an extra cost option. To accomplish this, my dealer uses the process, equipment and additives from BG Products, Inc.
    FYI: http://www.bgprod.com/products/transmission.html

    The color of the ATF can also signal need for a change. According to the '02 FSM, the following table relates ATF color to its condition.
    Clear Red: Normal

    Light Red (pink): Contaminated with water

    Reddish Brown (has no burnt smell): Normal, discoloration due to oxidation

    Reddish Brown (has burnt smell and metal specs are found): Deteriorated ATF

    Finally, again according to the FSM, one way of determining whether the transaxle should be replaced is by noting:
    If the ATF is muddy or varnished
    If the ATF smells strange or unusual

    Happy Motoring!
    Last edited by goldstar; 06-23-2010, 11:52 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      Current List of 100% Fully Synthetic Transmission Oils

      Updated October 2011

      Based on the API's definition of a true synthetic oil as one derived from Group V (Polyol ester) or Group IV (PAO) base stocks, for purposes of this thread I'm operationally defining a true synthetic oil as one in which the manufacturer specifies his oil is derived from one of the above groups or both in combination. It's not enough simply to state that the oil is synthetic, fully synthetic or 100% synthetic.

      I'm in no way implying that hydrocracked Group III oils labeled as synthetic are not high quality products and shouldn't be used. Nor is the intent here to rank oils in order of quality and claim that one oil is better than another. This post is strictly for those who believe that true synthetic oils have certain advantageous properties not found in petroleum based formulations and want those properties incorporated in the oil they choose for their own vehicles.

      Based on the foregoing, here is a list of transmission oils I believe to be true synthetics based on their specified constituents as listed by the manufacturer. The following oils are listed in alphabetical order.

      Manual Transmissions (F25M-R; G15M-R)
      Amsoil - Polyaphaolefin-PAO based.
      Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube SAE 75W-90, API GL-4 (MTG)
      http://www.amsoil.com

      Motul - Polyol ester based. A French company, Motul produces 100% synthetic, synthetic blends (referred to as Technosynthese) and mineral-based oils. The following 100% synthetic ester based oils are avalable in 1-liter containers:
      Gear 300 SAE 75W-90, API GL-4/GL-5
      Gear 300 LS SAE 75W-90, API GL-5
      For transmissions with highly stressed LSDs.
      http://motul.com/us/en-US
      Motul Canada: http://www.motul-canada.com
      For a USA vendor, Euro Synthetic Oils:


      Red Line - Polyol ester based. All Red Line lubricants are derived from Group V (Polyol ester) base stocks.
      MT-90 SAE 75W-90; API GL-4,
      According to Red Line, it has the appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers. The company claims that many gear oils, engine oils and ATFs are too slippery for proper synchro engagement. Red Line states that it also satisfies the viscosity requirements of an 80W-90 gear oil.
      http://www.redlineoil.com

      Torco - Polyalphaolefin-PAO/Polyol ester based.
      SGO Synthetic Racing Gear Oil SAE 75W-90, API GL-5/GL-6
      According to the manufacturer, this oil is derived from 100% synthetic Group IV/V base stocks and is suitable for both racing and street use. As noted above, API GL-6 is an obsolete classification that would provide a level of EP additive protection far in excess of anything our M/Ts currently require. Available in 1-liter containers.
      http://torcooil.com

      Does the Use of Synthetic M/T Lubricants Permit Extended Drain Intervals?
      Red Line addresses this topic in a manner that may well apply to other synthetic lubricant manufacturers as well."Being formulated with extremely stable synthetic basestocks, MTL and MT-90 will last much longer than conventional petroleum lubricants. However, we do not recommend extended drain intervals, since without a filtration system there is no way to remove metal shavings other than draining the lubricant. The regular maintenance intervals are also recommended to insure that the proper level of the fluid is maintained."

      Automatic Transmissions (FN4A-EL)
      Amsoil
      Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Transmission Fluid;
      (ATF)

      Red Line
      D4 ATF
      According to the manufacturer, this is a suitable replacement for the following products: Dexron II, Dexron III and Dexron IIIH; Mercon and Mercon V; Mazda ATF M-V. Interestingly, this is a GL-4 rated oil, making it also suitable for use in some M/Ts and transaxles.

      Torco
      HiVis ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid,
      PAO/ester based. Available in 1-liter containers. According to the manufacturer, it is suitable for both racing and street use. Replaces Dexron II, IIIH/M, and Mercon V.

      Euro Synthetic Oils: An excellent USA vendor for many brands of domestic and imported oils.


      Happy Motoring!
      Last edited by goldstar; 01-24-2012, 12:00 PM.
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment


        #4
        ok

        Can you povide links instead of just writing what you read?
        Last edited by goldstar; 01-24-2012, 11:56 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by psiturbo
          Can you povide links instead of just writing what you read?
          Sure. Links are in the first post of this thread.

          Last edited by goldstar; 06-23-2010, 06:44 AM.
          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

          Comment


            #6
            When should the trans be flushed and how do you conduct such a process? Some places want $99.00 to do this.
            Stuff for sale PM me if you are interested.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by dwpeek
              When should the trans be flushed and how do you conduct such a process? Some places want $99.00 to do this.
              If you have a M/T, it never needs to be flushed. Just draining out the old oil before refilling is sufficient. Beforehand, run the car until the transmission oil is hot as it drains more easily and completely that way. Then remove both the fill and drain plugs until the trans is empty. Replace the drain plug, refill with fresh oil, replace the fill plug and you're done. The Forum consensus seems to be that the M/T oil should be changed every 30,000 miles.

              With an A/T, the bulk of the oil is within the torque converter and there is no way to remove all the old oil through a simple drain. Flushing is the only way to completely remove the oil. For drain intervals, see post #2.

              Happy Motoring!
              Last edited by goldstar; 03-10-2010, 06:56 AM.
              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

              Comment


                #8
                Very helpful, thanks.
                Stuff for sale PM me if you are interested.

                Comment


                  #9
                  What's the view on Syncromesh by GM?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    automatic should be done every 30000 on factory rec's and most tranny shops will tell you once a year or 12000 miles. there are ways to flush it at home but they are not to reliable. basically it involves the use of 2 buckets. your best bet is to have a shop do it. and amsoil atf mobil 1 atf or royal purple maxatf is what i personally would rec. versus mercon 5 from ford to royal purple max atf my tranny temp dropped 10 degrees on avg in my f-150. to me thats a big deal.
                    mods: engine: fm stroker lightened and knifedged crank, 11:1, custom crank scraper, fully p&p head and intake mani, bored throttle body, flowed and matched stock injectors, rx7 vaf, apexi safc, gude race cams, modded ecu 8200 fuel cutoff, blaster coil, clutchmasters stage 3 clutch, fidanza fly wheel and timeing gears, msp diff, custom shortram in a cold air box

                    suspension: s/r struts intrack springs and intrax sway bars 15x6.5 rims kumho mx tires 205 50 r 15

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Got a JDM 4WD - 4EC-AT, live in the tropics.
                      Import, never got the owner manual or found a shop manual that covers JDM.
                      Does anybody know the OEM ATF Spec or can suggest a compatible option ?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Probably Dexron/MerconIII ATF.
                        I hear that you can use the new DexronIV ATF but I haven't seen it for sale yet.


                        Redline D4 ATF
                        Royal Purple Max ATF
                        Motul Dexron III
                        Specialty Formulation's AutoGlide ATF
                        Amsoil ATF
                        and Mobil1 ATF would all be good synthetic choices.
                        Redline is cheapest from www.myoilshop.com


                        Do you have Walmart in Trinidad? They sell ATF cheap there.
                        Supertech DMIII should work fine, Castrol or Valvoline will cost a little bit more.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Or it might use MV ATF? Which I'm guessing is Mercon V, since that's what Ford (they own mazda) switched to around '97-98.
                          Luckily some Mercon V's work in Dexron/Mercon III trannies.

                          So what do you use if you don't have an FSM? First, I'd try to check with a Mazda dealer/service dept.
                          If they don't have any idea I'd try using the following ATF's that will all work in Dexron/Mercon III AND Mercon V trannies.
                          IMHO, the best choice would be Redline D4 ATF or Amsoil Universal ATF
                          Then
                          Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF
                          Valvoline Mercon V ATF
                          Mobil Multi-Vehicle ATF
                          Castrol Multivehicle ATF

                          Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF, Quaker State Multi-Vehicle ATF, and Shell FormulaShell ATF MERCON V should all be about the same.
                          And I'm sure there's more out there...


                          Or you could use any regular Dexron/Mexcon III ATF and if it doesn't shift well add this Lubegard additive

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Mobil

                            I tried the 75W-90 synthethic GL-5 oil from EZLUBe in my 2000 Mazda Protege, and I didnt notice any significant improvement. My transmission still feels kinda notchy like it did before. Waste of 55 bucks. Im contemplating now wether to try the mt90 red line or not. I have a feeling it wont improve my shifting smoothness.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              What is the best transmission oil to put in my manual transmission???????

                              Comment

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