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    Installed Suvlights Heavy Duty Headlight Wiring Harness

    This is a universal harness that is made to power a variety of bulb types and lighting configurations. I obtained the one designed for my sedan with one 9003/H4 bulb per headlight. Harnesses are also available for 9004, 9005, 9006 and 9007 bulbs. The harness appears to utilize 14 AWG (condiderably larger in diameter than OEM) with a fusible link, and contains 4 crimped-on ring terminals; 2 large ones to be connected to the + battery terminal and 2 smaller ones to be connected to the neg battery terminal. The harness also contains a wired-in dual relay socket and a plug with 3 contacts matching a 9003/H4 bulb as well as 2 headlight bulb sockets that will replace the factory sockets. Two heavy duty relays are also included. No instructions were provided. The harness is available from http://www.suvlights.com and the current cost is US $50 plus shipping. The installation was simple but you can download general instructions from the FAQ section of the website. There, you will also find illustrations of the various available harnesses.

    The first thing I did was to apply heatsinks to the 4 crimped-on ring terminals and solder them. This makes for a stronger connection than crimping alone and coating the wire strands with solder reduces the possibility of corrosion. After connecting the 2 large ring terminals to the + batt. terminal (which I was able to do by feeding them one at a time through the terminal cover), the relay socket has to be mounted near the left headlight. Conveniently, I found an unused threaded hole in the left inner fenderwell that will take an M6 x 1.0 bolt. The bolt I used was about 25 mm long as I had to space out the relay socket with a couple of nuts and flat washers to get the necessary clearance. I also had to slightly ream out the mounting hole in the relay socket to obtain clearance for the bolt. This makes for a solid, secure mounting.

    The next step is to unplug the factory socket from the left headlight bulb and then attach the mating harness plug to that. This step connects the entire factory headlight lighting system to the harness. Then, the harness bulb socket closest to the left headlight is attached to the left headlight bulb. I then ran the harness branch to the right headlight across the valve cover (zip tied to the OEM cable already running there), unplugged the factory headlight bulb socket and attached the second harness bulb socket to the right headlight. The factory socket just hangs there now and is not used. I connected each ground wire terminal from the new harness bulb sockets to the bolts that hold the radiator upper mounting brackets as they were conveniently close.

    Before plugging in the relays, the instructions call for applying contact grease to the relay terminals to prevent corrosion. At PEP Boys, I found Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease which, according to Permatex, "Protects electrical connections, ignition parts, and wiring from moisture, salt, dirt and corrosion." I used it on the relay terminals and on the harness plug terminals, applying it with a toothpick, before plugging in. This completes the installation.

    With the harness in place, the factory wiring system serves only to energize the relay coils which draw very little current. The heavy headlight bulb current is drawn directly from the battery through the large gauge harness wire and the heavy duty relay contacts. This insures that the bulbs get full voltage and current at all times to maintain their maximum brightness and light output. Another advantage of the modification is that it is easy to return to stock since no permanent modification to the factory system is required. This is strictly a plug 'n play system.

    Further Improvements
    The original large battery terminals provided with the harness did not provide an optimal connection. Their outside diameter was too large to fit in the channel on the outside of the battery clamp behind the nut forcing me to place the terminals between the clamp halfs - not a good idea because it can result in not getting the clamp tight enough for good contact on the terminal. Furthermore, the mounting holes in the terminals were much larger than the battery terminal bolt size meaning there was not much metal-to-metal contact between clamp and terminals. The battery clamp bolt appears to be an M6 x 1.0 meaning that its diameter is less than 1/4" whereas the diameter of the terminal holes was much greater than that. This is a universal harness after all.

    To resolve the problem, I snipped off the original terminals and replaced them with Lightning Audio Bolt BSRT 14/16 AWG gold-plated ring terminals. Two of the 4 terminals included in the package have 5/16" holes and the outer diameter of the rings enables them to fit perfectly in the channel of the battery clamp right behind the nut. This enables the clamp to be properly tightened on the terminal and provides much more metal-to-metal contact than the original terminals, even though the new ones are smaller overall. Because the new terminals are closed end, I drilled them out using a pin vise so that I could both crimp and solder on the new terminals. Some of you might think that overkill - and you might be right. BTW, this job is made easier due to the fact that the fusible link can be unplugged from the rest of the harness.

    Happy Motoring!

    Photos:
    1. Illustrating how the wiring harness (the two smaller black conductors) connects to the battery + terminal.

    2. Showing the location of the two relays and the dual relay socket bolted to the left inner fenderwell by means of the unused threaded hole found there. The coolant overflow tank is on the left. The mounting bolt is between the socket and the fenderwell so cannot be seen in this view.

    3. The white OEM connector has been unplugged from the driver's side headlight bulb and plugged into the harness' yellow connector (red-white-black wires), on the right of the photo, where it now serves only to provide relay coil current.

    The harness' yellow connector (blue-yellow-black wires), on the left side of the photo, replaces the OEM white connector and carries current directly from the battery + terminal, via the relay's power terminals, to energize the headlight bulb. Note the conductor size difference between OEM and harness.

    4. The OEM white headlight connector on the passenger side has been disconnected (it just hangs there now) and replaced with the harness' yellow connector (blue-yellow-black wires), providing current directly from the battery + terminal through the relay power terminal. Again, note the discrepancy in conductor size.

    5. Black ground wire from driver's side headlight plug connected to the chassis by one of the two radiator upper mounting bracket bolts. Same arrangement for the passenger side headlight plug ground wire.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 03-11-2010, 01:46 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    Improving the Headlight Wire Harness Ground

    Having improved the power feed to the headlight bulbs, I decided to now check out the quality of the ground circuit. As I stated above, the wiring harness has two ground leads (one for each headlight) each of which I connected to a radiator upper support bracket. Using a Wavetek HD160 DMM, I then measured the resistance between each radiator support bracket and the batt. neg terminal. I found the resistance to vary from .3 to .4 ohms. Since my DMM reads.1 ohm when the leads are shorted together (the resistance of the test leads), this meant that the resistance between headlight ground and batt. neg terminal was .2 to .3 ohms. I then confirmed this measurement by reading the R between the batt. neg terminal and the chassis grounding plate to which the stock ground cable is connected, where I again obtained a reading of .2 to .3 ohms. Since this ground resistance is in series with the headlight bulb filaments, there will be an IR drop across the ground resistance thereby reducing the bulb voltage to some degree. This suggested the factory ground was somewhat inadequate.

    To improve the ground, I made up a 9" length of 4 AWG wire with a Phoenix gold terminal crimped to each end and connected it in parallel with the factory ground wire. I used a Lightning Audio Translucent Silver power wire and Phoenix Gold P444/2 gold plated 4 ga. ring terminals with 1/4" mounting holes since both the battery clamp bolt and the ground plate bolt are M6 x 1.0. I filed down the edges of the ring terminal that I attached to the batt. + terminal so that it would fit snugly in the channel of the clamp underneath the nut, making a very secure connection. Using a coarse file, it only took a couple of minutes to shape the terminal. The terminals are the open type so I would have liked to have soldered them as well as crimp, but I don't have a heavy enough iron to do the job.

    Now, between either radiator support bracket and the batt.- term., I obtained a reading of .1 ohm. Likewise between the batt. neg terminal and the ground plate, as would be expected.

    Results
    With the harness in place, the headlights are noticeably brighter than with the stock arrangement. There is more light output on the ground, more distant objects are easier to see than previously, the shoulder is better lit than before and there is no noticeable dimming when such high current devices as the AC and the fan turn on. Coupled with my Osram Night Breaker bulbs, my lighting system is now noticeably superior to the factory setup. I consider the harness mod a worthwhile improvement. That being said, I have the OEM audio system so I don't know how effective this wiring mod would be (in terms of dimming) for those of you with high current draw aftermarket systems.

    Happy Motoring!

    Below, the ~ 9" long, 4 AWG, additional ground wire I added between the batt. neg terminal and the ground plate. Note how much larger in gauge the added wire is compared with the factory ground:
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 03-11-2010, 01:58 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      you can get brighter headlights by

      a polishing your lights

      b reground your engine bay

      C buy 100/65 bulbs instead of 65/55's my napa sells them if any one needs them or cant find them
      eat me

      Comment


        #4
        There are two problems with replacing the 60/55 watt H4 headlight bulbs with high-wattage types. First, 100/65 watt bulbs are illegal for use on any public highway in the US or Canada. Second, high wattage bulbs can damage or melt headlight connector plugs and internal headlight components.

        Engine ground systems by themselves do little to improve headlight output without at the same time providing heavier gauge wires, with the shortest possible run from battery to bulbs, in the headlight circuit itself. Which of course was the whole purpose of installing a heavy duty headlight wire harness in the first place.
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment


          #5
          In regard to polishing the headlights, that's a completely separate topic and has nothing to do with the purpose of this thread.
          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

          Comment


            #6
            how are the results, you went thru all the trouble of writing up the how to and didn't say how it looks!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 95ProLeila
              how are the results, you went thru all the trouble of writing up the how to and didn't say how it looks!
              If you're asking about the functional results, I already stated that the headlights are noticeably brighter than with the stock arrangement. There is more light output on the ground, more distant objects are easier to see than previously and there is no noticeable dimming when such high current devices as the AC are turned on. That being said, I have the OEM audio system so I don't know how effective this wiring mod would be (in terms of dimming) for those of you with high current draw aftermarket systems.

              If you're asking about physical appearance in the engine bay, the wiring harness integrates nicely into the factory system and provides a clutter-free, neat and almost OEM-like look.

              Happy Motoring!
              Last edited by goldstar; 03-11-2010, 02:01 PM.
              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

              Comment


                #8
                i received the same results by regrounding engine bay and engine with 4 gauge wire

                also if your headlights dim that may mean your alternator is having a hard time keeping up with the current required to power the amp i sujjest you goto napa and get a new rewound performance alternator ( there powder coated too if you didnt know )
                eat me

                Comment


                  #9
                  This thread is becoming cluttered up with useless comments.

                  First, look at the date this thread was posted. At the time, my car was a little over a year old and no, there was absolutely nothing wrong with my alternator, then or now. Therefore, your suggestion that I go to NAPA for a new, performance rewound, powder-coated alternator is pointless.

                  Second, I bought and installed the Heavy Duty Wiring Harness in an attempt to improve my lighting system not because I felt there was anything wrong with it.

                  Third, as I carefully explained, providing an additional ground reduces resistance in series with the bulbs IN THE GROUND CIRCUIT ONLY; it does nothing to decrease series resistance in the feed or positive side of the circuit. My experience has been that engine bay ground systems, even using 4 gauge wire, provide marginal results at best.

                  Fourth, I'm truly happy that you got results equal to mine by regrounding your engine bay and engine even though you can't possibly know this having never seen my car. That being the case, why don't you start your own thread detailing your mods so we can all appreciate your knowledge and ability. You could even title it: My Lighting Mod is Better than goldstar's.

                  Fifth, this thread details a particular mod for those who may be interested. It is not a thread devoted to comparative lighting systems.

                  Sixth, being an apprentice or regular moderator and not one for this sub-forum (as I was at that time), there's little I could do here. However, if I only had the power I would delete posts #3.4,5 and 8 in the interest of clarity and rational thought.

                  Happy Motoring!
                  Last edited by goldstar; 03-11-2010, 02:05 PM.
                  02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                  MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                  MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                  Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                  MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                  Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                  Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                  Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                  Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                  Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                  Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                  Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                  Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have a question. Looking at the picture of the harness at www.suvlights.com I can see that the negative lead of the harness is running all the way back to the battery. Your posts read that you are using ring terminals to ground each headlight. Can you confirm that your harness doesn't have a negative lead for the battery?

                    I made my own harness using 12 gauge wire, and it is almost identical to the one pictured at www.suvlights.com with the exception of the negative battery lead (and the custom fit). I am using chassis ground for each headlight instead of the negative battery terminal. Should I consider re-wiring it?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Unless a change was made to the current harnesses, my harness had two relatively short ground leads, one from each headlight socket. Since they weren't long enough to reach the battery neg term, I simply connected their ring terminals to the radiator mounting brackets. After connecting the additional ground wire from neg batt term to grounding plate, no potential difference existed between the ground wire ring terminals and neg batt term so I concluded that no further ground was needed. However, it would have been just as easy to splice in additional wire to the supplied grounds and run them direct to the ground plate or neg batt term.

                      I would think that you could measure to see if any potential difference existed between headlight chassis ground and neg batt term. If so, running a wire from that chassis point to the battery should eliminate it.
                      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                      Comment


                        #12
                        My grounds are on the rad. support as well. I will check the voltage drop before I finalize the install. I was merely testing functionality (because of the bi-xenon HID retrofit, I wanted to make sure I've preserved high/low beam functionality).

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sounds good. Your homemade harness is probably better than the Suvlights 14 gauge one since you're using 12 gauge wire.
                          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I have reached the conclusion that it may be overkill. Especially because the HID ballasts are rated at only 35W. But at least I am sure they have all the juice they will ever need.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              That certainly seems true!
                              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                              Comment

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