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    #16
    you might need a apexi afc controller. that might do the trick
    1990 Protege 4wd: BP05 forged internals, Mild ported head, GTR intake manifold, Gates racing timing belt, GTX transmission, Stage 3 clutch, 60trim T-3 turbo, Custom down pipe,3" Stainles exhaust, , Walbro fuel pump, RB-Performance fmic kit, HKS bov, Aurfa coilovers, F&R drilled slotted rotors, 16" BBS wrapped with Advan Novea tires, EDM glass headlights with HID's, Familia front and rear bumpers.


    Boosted 1990 4WD
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32462


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      #17
      Thanks! That is useful.
      2006 Mazda 3 hatchback manual

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        #18
        Originally posted by Proto420
        you might need a apexi afc controller. that might do the trick
        Nah. Although restrictive, the AFM(VAF) is an amazing tuning tool. Every time I do a mod, I can use the AFM to tune air/fuel ratios. A fuel computer is completely unnecessary.

        I'm glad you got it all sorted out Ryan. I'd still like to see your car on the dyno though. Just to see what kind of power that bad boy's helping you make.

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          #19
          likewise, because i dont feel like messing around with the VAF if i have it better tuned now. speaking of tuning, Josh, did you still wanna hit the dyno sometime this summer? im still workin my way up there, just have to do a couple more little things, and i'll be ready. and i'm already running 91 octane, so i may have to boost the octane a bit. also i found a shop who will do head work for 150 bucks if i supply the parts, so i'll be sending my spare out there soon, takes a couple weeks, but well worth the wait.

          JACK
          -Jack

          ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

          91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
          http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

          01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

          91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
          http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

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            #20
            Originally posted by Mazda_Powered
            likewise, because i dont feel like messing around with the VAF if i have it better tuned now. speaking of tuning, Josh, did you still wanna hit the dyno sometime this summer? im still workin my way up there, just have to do a couple more little things, and i'll be ready. and i'm already running 91 octane, so i may have to boost the octane a bit. also i found a shop who will do head work for 150 bucks if i supply the parts, so i'll be sending my spare out there soon, takes a couple weeks, but well worth the wait.

            JACK
            You know it man. Let me know when you're ready to hit the dyno, and we'll book an appointment for you....

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              #21
              why exactly does the fuel pump cut off need to be touching.... its as simple as don't leave your key in the ignition when your not driving??? whats so hard about that? it does not effect your car while driving...

              let me understand this.... you first adjusted the clockscrew.... then to perfect it more you adjusted the black rotatable piece? and you used a voltoometer to do this?? what exactly leads you to believe that your volt reading was ideal for performance? or where you going for butt dyno feel? driveability?
              ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

              1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




              I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
              he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                #22
                alright, im havin problems with my rx-7 vaf, the damn thing doesnt wanna make my car work properly, its always running rich, and when i go one click lean from the spot where it runs best, it dies, and sometimes makes a loud POP sound from the intake filter.

                so if anyone knows how the hell i can fix this, please help. oh, also i dont have my original VAF either, it got full of moisture over the winter time and seized beyond repair.

                thanks in advance

                JACK
                -Jack

                ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

                91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
                http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

                01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

                91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
                http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

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                  #23
                  and josh, it wont be for a while now, haha, i have to get my car running good enough for a long distance trip. but hopefully it wont be TO TO long. this thing is really pissing me off, i was almost ready to put a for sale sign on it last night.

                  JACK
                  -Jack

                  ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

                  91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
                  http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

                  01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

                  91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
                  http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Mazda_Powered
                    and josh, it wont be for a while now, haha, i have to get my car running good enough for a long distance trip. but hopefully it wont be TO TO long. this thing is really pissing me off, i was almost ready to put a for sale sign on it last night.

                    JACK
                    You need to bump up your idle. The sooner you hit the dyno, the sooner the AFM will be tuned properly......

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by bpt323
                      why exactly does the fuel pump cut off need to be touching.... its as simple as don't leave your key in the ignition when your not driving??? whats so hard about that? it does not effect your car while driving...

                      let me understand this.... you first adjusted the clockscrew.... then to perfect it more you adjusted the black rotatable piece? and you used a voltoometer to do this?? what exactly leads you to believe that your volt reading was ideal for performance? or where you going for butt dyno feel? driveability?
                      Well, the fuel pump cut off doesn't need to be touching but I wanted it just incase. Ever roll your windows down without turning the car on? I rest my case. What's so hard about making the VAF as it's supposed to be? 1 hex screw and you don't ever have to worry about it.

                      It's easy to tune the way I explained. I'll try to explain it better:

                      You first turn the black rotateable piece with the car off, key in the on position, until you get the 3.8 volts.

                      Then you start the car, and re-measure the voltage with the engine at idle. You can then turn the gear wheel, which changes the flapper door tension, which in turn will change where the black rotateable piece is with the car idling, which changes the voltage, and you can get 3.3 volts there. That way you have the actual Mazda specified voltage for the Protege, and your car should run damn well.

                      You see, the voltage reading = air/fuel mixture. By getting the stock BP voltage reading you are getting the correct air/fuel mixture. I don't know how else to explain it. I'm not going for a dyno number, I go for how the car drives. What's it worth to say "I got an extra 1hp" if your car doesn't run as well as it did without that numerical 1hp?
                      I take it you would have been one of those people who actually sold thier RX-8 back to Mazda after the numerical hp figure discrepency? Who cares, the car drove the same, exact same. No change at all, just a number, a bragging right. Not worth it.
                      Last edited by MazKid; 06-09-2005, 10:39 PM.

                      1994 Protege BP-Turbo.....1994 Miata Supercharged.....2003 Protege5 stock DD.....1988 323 GT Turbo
                      On the road soon: 2003 Protege5 V6 swap
                      My vB Gallery - Full Information and Photos of My Mazdas

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                        #26
                        VERY interesting writeup... i will definately have to use this trick when i start modding...




                        not to be a thread jacker... but..



                        yall say there is no need for an aftermarket fuel computer... however, i plan on running miata pistons later on down the road... yall think the rx-7 vaf will be enough to keep up with bolt ons, ported everything AND higher compression?
                        Fazda (Foz-dâ) n. - The Culmination of Ford body and Mazda brains; see also: identity crisis

                        CTA intake + E.S. Motor Mount Inserts + Ractive Front Strut Tower Bar + BF Goodrich G-force Sport 195/55's +
                        Corksport's Escort GT Pre-FAB exhaust! + Walbro 255lph fuel pump + 16°BTDC = WEEEE!!!!

                        1993 'Ford' Escort GT... Mazda Motor and Unibody - Ford skin

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by TheMightyEscort
                          VERY interesting writeup... i will definately have to use this trick when i start modding...




                          not to be a thread jacker... but..



                          yall say there is no need for an aftermarket fuel computer... however, i plan on running miata pistons later on down the road... yall think the rx-7 vaf will be enough to keep up with bolt ons, ported everything AND higher compression?
                          There's need for an aftermarket computer, but when your stock computer runs out of ability....

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                            #28
                            ^^^
                            did you ever up the timing?

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                              #29
                              Me? No. No need to now. Gotta keep the Mazda specifications.

                              1994 Protege BP-Turbo.....1994 Miata Supercharged.....2003 Protege5 stock DD.....1988 323 GT Turbo
                              On the road soon: 2003 Protege5 V6 swap
                              My vB Gallery - Full Information and Photos of My Mazdas

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by MazKid
                                Me? No. No need to now. Gotta keep the Mazda specifications.
                                Why's that? You're only selling yourself short.

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