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    I can't get my idle down.

    There's a service bulletin that mentions the following:

    APPLICABLE MODELS
    1997 Protege with a Z5 engine, manual transaxle and a VIN of JM1BC****V0111118 and lower.


    My car does not fall into that category since it's a 95 and is NOT manual transmission. Even if it was, the fix they show is with the dealer's analysis system equipment, it seems. The idle is really high and makes my car yank on the tranny when I put it in drive or reverse. I'm going to ruin my engine mounts or transmission if I don't get this fixed soon. I moved the Throttle Body screw to it's lowest but nothing, I loosened the accelerator wire thingy and nothing. I've looked for a disconnected vaccum hose and don't find one disconnected. Is there one somewhere that I might be missing? I checked the one that goes into the back of the intake already and put a new PCV valve. If anyone has had this problem with an automatic transmission 2nd gen, please let me know how you fixed it. Heck, maybe on a manual but it may be the same problem.

    #2
    I was just pricing an ISC (Idle Speed Control) Valve at the dealer just out of curiousity. They charge $730! Aren't they funny? Idiots! If an auto parts store has it then it will be in the $300 range. Well, we all now what I have to do now if I want to test if that part is the problem. I hate that j/y searching. Also the waiting for one on ebay. Those two are the only options. I got the MAF sensor from a 97 on ebay for 20 bucks and it's hundreds at the dealer.

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      #3
      Sometimes if you pull backwards with your foot (instead of pushing), the idling returns to normal. You might have a sticky throttle wire. I have one. Hope it was of some help.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Tawd
        Sometimes if you pull backwards with your foot (instead of pushing), the idling returns to normal. You might have a sticky throttle wire. I have one. Hope it was of some help.
        I had tried that already but it was a good suggestion. I got some pliers and forced the little wheel that the cable wraps around and it lowered like that but I'm forcing it to go where it really has no more room to turn. In other words, that could break it and is only good while I'm holding it. I may try loosening the nut where it meets the accelerator. I'm not sure about that yet.

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          #5
          Do you guys have a diagnostic port in the engine bay, next to the main fuse box just in front of the drivers side front suspension turret????

          If so you need to short out two pins in the port to adjust the idle, just turning the idle screw won't affect idle speed.



          If you're port is the same as mine, connect a small piece of wire between TEN on the top row and GND on the second row, then use the idle screw to adjust, i find it helps to adjust a little higher than you want with the wire in place as the idle speed will drop slightly when its removed.

          Hope this helps
          Last edited by andym323; 07-02-2005, 11:38 AM.

          BA Moderator - Club323F Greetings from the UK

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            #6
            I have never heard of this. I know the area you're talking about. The fuses and computer diagnostic jack is around that area on all cars. I will check if I have the arrangement your pic shows.

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              #7
              Ok, Andy. I tried with the jumpers and it lowered the idle some but an insignificant amount. The problem persists, thanks. By the way, I took off the Throttle Body to clean it out with cleaner made for TB cleaning and now the problem is more severe. I mean now it's car-breaking severe. I got on the free way and the car rode at 50mph without me touching the accelerator pedal. I can't find a thing detached or wrong.
              Last edited by mannydingo; 07-27-2005, 11:00 AM.

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                #8
                LOL!... manny', I came into this problem a month ago when I cleaned out my TB & EGR valve. The trick is to put some slack in the throtle cable.

                When I put everything back together after cleaning, I tried to find the perfect tension (or lack of it) in the cable so that the throtle spring would close the throtle plate perfectly. When I had found the perfect spot where there was no slack, the throtle would stick just before closing completely. This required me to pull the pedal up to get a normal idle whenever I came off the gas.

                I quickly realized that the cable needs to have a very small amount of slack to assist the spring to close the plate all the way. The cable is pretty stiff. You can adjust it so there is minimal slack and still get normal throtle response. This worked for me. Car runs fine now. Hope this helps.
                1998 Mazda BHALP SE - Rain Forest Green Mica

                Pacesetter short shifter ; Depo tails (thanks beetle_orange) ; Custom CAI nearing completion ; CF hood on the way ; Brembo blanks & KVR pads to be inst. (thanks Pigeon) ; Goodridge brake lines to be inst. ;

                Much more to come...

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                  #9
                  Get some carburator cleaner and while the engine is running spray it around vaccum lines and gasket surfaces. If the idle changes when you spray it somewhere then get a peice of hose and use it to listen to that area where you were spraying. I would consider checking to see if the tb gasket isn't leaking. when you reuse intake gaskets they usually leak because they compress to fill any micro scratches or worpage when you install them and when you use them again they don't fit anymore because they are already compressed.

                  I know it's spelled protege! I just can't change it. Deal with it!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Shaun, if your problem did not have your idle sometimes nearing the 5 on your tach then it might not be the same thing. However, a co-worker gave me a good idea to cancel out a problem with the TB and figure it's the linkage. He said to just run the car with both cables completely disconnected from the TB. This makes total sense. That would leave the TB free to return to it's fully closed postion. If it keeps bothering then there's a problem with the flap letting air through or who knows what else. If the idle drops to where it should be then the TB should be ok. We will see. Thanks for your reply, though and let me know how high your idle went.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Project Protoge
                      Get some carburator cleaner and while the engine is running spray it around vaccum lines and gasket surfaces. If the idle changes when you spray it somewhere then get a peice of hose and use it to listen to that area where you were spraying. I would consider checking to see if the tb gasket isn't leaking. when you reuse intake gaskets they usually leak because they compress to fill any micro scratches or worpage when you install them and when you use them again they don't fit anymore because they are already compressed.
                      I did re-use the gasket but will put in a new one since this is being such a pain in the arse. I already sprayed engine starter fluid and noticed no change in idle. I'm glad to see more ideas being thrown my way.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If it doesn't help much disconnecting the throttle linkage then you would probably have a problem with the idle air control valve. Advanced timing can increase idle speed but not as much as you seem to be experiencing.

                        I know it's spelled protege! I just can't change it. Deal with it!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Project Protoge
                          If it doesn't help much disconnecting the throttle linkage then you would probably have a problem with the idle air control valve. Advanced timing can increase idle speed but not as much as you seem to be experiencing.
                          I have the Mazda Shop manual for my car. It states that if I pull the connector off of the IAC valve and notice a drop in idle then it's working. I pulled it off already about a week ago and the idle dropped. Ofcourse, at the rate my idle is going it isn't enough of a difference. My problem is elsewhere. Thanks

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                            #14
                            Problem solved!!! My co-worker was right. I took off the cables and the TB's spring brought it completely back to a full stop/closed. The idle went down to more-or-less where it should be. Now I can drive it around fine. I hope I didn't bust my engine mounts or tranny with those horrible jerks into gear.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              How were you able to drive the car if you took the cable off? if you took if off wouldnt it mean that when you step on the gas it wont pull the TB?

                              1996 1.5L Mazda Protege DX MTX
                              Mods:
                              DX converted to an LX (F & R seats and All Power), 2" Exhaust from the Catback, EuroReverse Glow Gauges, JDM Clear Side Markers, 17" MB Motoring Rims, K&N air filter 33-2134, All Clear Lenses, Front Strut Bar, MS Sideskirts, JDM Taillights, JDM Turbo Diesel Hood Scoop, OEM Door Visors, and Ducktail.
                              http://www.cardomain.com/id/beetle_orange

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