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    #16
    i corrected the last post. i didn't get a chance to upload my dyno graph as this time i didn't have access to a scanner
    first run was pre exhintake cam 117WHP 112FT. LBS
    afterwords it was 128WHP 116FT. LBS
    not much gain in torque but an 11WHP overall gain
    4k+ had a 13:1 AFR, but pre 4k had really wacky AFR.
    that was with 5° advance on the intake 1°retarded on the exhaust.
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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      #17
      so i guess that i should get the adj. cam gears first. cool thanks for all the info.
      1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
      1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
      2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
      2010 VW routon

      Originally posted by jay
      .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

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        #18
        Yes Sir A Good Idea!
        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by bpt323
          i corrected the last post. i didn't get a chance to upload my dyno graph as this time i didn't have access to a scanner
          first run was pre exhintake cam 117WHP 112FT. LBS
          afterwords it was 128WHP 116FT. LBS
          not much gain in torque but an 11WHP overall gain
          4k+ had a 13:1 AFR, but pre 4k had really wacky AFR.
          that was with 5° advance on the intake 1°retarded on the exhaust.
          OK, I do remember this. So you got 11whp, that's sweet. So obviously, since you had in cam advanced, it gave you more power up top, and retarding it will bring that powerband back down. Good stuff.

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            #20
            Wow, that's a lot of power from just a cam! Can't wait to do it to mine...prolly on Sunday.

            Must...have...more...power!!

            1994 Protege BP-Turbo.....1994 Miata Supercharged.....2003 Protege5 stock DD.....1988 323 GT Turbo
            On the road soon: 2003 Protege5 V6 swap
            My vB Gallery - Full Information and Photos of My Mazdas

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              #21
              Originally posted by MazKid
              Wow, that's a lot of power from just a cam! Can't wait to do it to mine...prolly on Sunday.

              Must...have...more...power!!
              Not to mention one of the cheapest mods you can do. With RX7 AFM, 18° initial advance, exhintake cam and 2 hours of dyno time, you can have 20whp for less than $500.

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                #22
                well with the cam, adj cam gears,port polish,5 angle,dual vave springs,dyno time i wonder how much i'll get.hmmmmm
                1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
                1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
                2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
                2010 VW routon

                Originally posted by jay
                .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

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                  #23
                  You don't need the valve springs, but I'm guessing 135whp?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Gen1GT
                    .....You know how there's a mark in one of the teeth that tells you it's the top? Well, find the tooth that is directly opposite that on the bottom. Now count 3 teeth to the left(counter-clockwise) of that one. Now mark that tooth, as it's your new 'top' tooth. Install the cam as you would the old intake cam, but align that as your top.

                    The thing is, you're now still 6° off where you should be, and will probably be down a few hp from what I got. An adjustable cam gear, and a dyno is what you need next. Playing with A/F ratios using the AFM will also net 1-2 more hp after this.
                    Just to clear things up, because you didn't differentiate between the cam and the cam gear. You install the exintake cam as you would normally install a cam, but when you install the cam gear on the exintake cam, you flip it 180 degrees and 3 teeth ccwise?

                    -When you said to cut the end off of the cam, you referred to it as the CAS end. What is CAS? And I'm kind of a noob when it comes to dynoing, when you take your car to be dynoed, do they tune it or do you, or does it depend on where you take it?

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Gen1GT
                      You don't need the valve springs, but I'm guessing 135whp?
                      i got the head from the jy and want to build it solid. so i will have new valves,dual springs,toga head set(teflon seals),titanium retainers and keepers,port polish,5 angle,exhintake cam. thats the plan for now. i'm ripping the old parts off this weekend and my buddy is taking it on monday and doing all the work. i dont know if i want to deck the head and make it all-motor or turbo. the reason i say this is because next year me and the wife are buying a house and a 323 is going in the garage for my project and the pro will be my daily driver till the 323 is done. the 323 is getting the t4 and a fully built motor
                      Last edited by Turpro; 11-09-2005, 08:52 PM.
                      1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
                      1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
                      2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
                      2010 VW routon

                      Originally posted by jay
                      .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Jho
                        Just to clear things up, because you didn't differentiate between the cam and the cam gear. You install the exintake cam as you would normally install a cam, but when you install the cam gear on the exintake cam, you flip it 180 degrees and 3 teeth ccwise?

                        -When you said to cut the end off of the cam, you referred to it as the CAS end. What is CAS? And I'm kind of a noob when it comes to dynoing, when you take your car to be dynoed, do they tune it or do you, or does it depend on where you take it?
                        The cam can only be installed one way on the cam gear, so when you install the cam, you only have the cam gear to go by. It's easiest I found, to install cam and camgear together.

                        CAS is an acronym for Cam Angle Sensor(or Crank Angle Sensor). It's a drive for the CAS/distributor, which is too long, and needs to be cut off to fit on the intake side.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Gen1GT
                          The cam can only be installed one way on the cam gear, so when you install the cam, you only have the cam gear to go by. It's easiest I found, to install cam and camgear together.

                          CAS is an acronym for Cam Angle Sensor(or Crank Angle Sensor). It's a drive for the CAS/distributor, which is too long, and needs to be cut off to fit on the intake side.
                          idiot! I didn't think before I asked that question. Thanks....I'm tired.

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                            #28
                            When higher duration cams is installed, compression is lost. So, I bet your car is running slower than faster. I went thru all this crap with INTEGRAL CAMS company. We tested three different setups or profiles with a stock ECU. The rev limit will REALLY limit you on gaining any HP. Unless the ECU is remapped so the engine can visit the 8,000 range making this cam exhaust swap is useless or shave the cylinder head significantly.

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                              #29
                              wow, PSI turbo your statement is both true & very biased. 8-9WHP is not a worthless mod. the car even drives better. It is not reccomended to start decking the block or head as a way to increase compression. thats the poor mans way of doing it. Speak to flyin' miata & let them tell ya.
                              ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                              1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                              I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                              he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Man, I forgot about this thread.

                                The cam is still in my room(and my car isn't in my room, meaning the cam is not on the car)...now I don't know whether to put it on the Protege or put it on the Miata, or both.

                                1994 Protege BP-Turbo.....1994 Miata Supercharged.....2003 Protege5 stock DD.....1988 323 GT Turbo
                                On the road soon: 2003 Protege5 V6 swap
                                My vB Gallery - Full Information and Photos of My Mazdas

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