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NEEDED: ARP head stud nut torques!

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    NEEDED: ARP head stud nut torques!

    I can't find my sheet anywhere and their website apparently doesn't have it (bastards!) Anyone got theirs?
    Ask me about engine management!

    #2
    Originally posted by matt_fulghum
    I can't find my sheet anywhere and their website apparently doesn't have it (bastards!) Anyone got theirs?
    Here ya go.



    --Ferdi
    If you can't differentiate between brake and break, you should go back to school
    -----
    Miscellaneous Pics of Turbo Protege Build
    Big Front Brake Install using Wilwood Calipers
    Factory Service Manuals and Familia Brochures - PDF

    Comment


      #3
      yeay!

      For old usefull post.
      Beater=/= Sleeper

      Originally posted by kozzman555
      kitty, you are a hilarious woman
      Originally posted by HopelessCow
      there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
      Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

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        #4
        True.

        When I called them last time, their computers were down- tech guy gave me the torque specs based on the stud size.
        sigpic

        03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
        92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

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          #5
          I think this thread need to be stuck. I've used it twice.

          94 Protege LX: HX-35, Megasquit, ect...
          98 Subaru Legacy GT-DD: 1 inch lift, and all the standard N/A stuff.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by photoeye0 View Post
            I think this thread need to be stuck. I've used it twice.
            done deal
            1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
            1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
            2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
            2010 VW routon

            Originally posted by jay
            .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

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              #7

              94 Protege LX: HX-35, Megasquit, ect...
              98 Subaru Legacy GT-DD: 1 inch lift, and all the standard N/A stuff.

              Comment


                #8
                pretty sure i TQ'ed them to 68 or 72 i forget which, but a little extra doesn't hurt so long as its not excessive
                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                  #9
                  Gotta +1 this thread, thanks for sharing..I just used the info for main studs.
                  1993 Ford Festiva - Fiona/b6 swap
                  1997 Ford Aspire - Peaspire/rescued restored and sold
                  1994 Ford Aspire - Kiazord/BPG5MR Swap
                  1999 Mazda 626 - exDD, sold
                  1997 Ford Aspire - Babyspire, stock low miles&clean
                  1994 Ford Aspire - Crustyspire, scrapped
                  2003 Chrysler T&C - grocery getter

                  Comment


                    #10
                    They changed their minds about the head stud torque, the paper I got said 80 ft lbs.
                    1993 Ford Festiva - Fiona/b6 swap
                    1997 Ford Aspire - Peaspire/rescued restored and sold
                    1994 Ford Aspire - Kiazord/BPG5MR Swap
                    1999 Mazda 626 - exDD, sold
                    1997 Ford Aspire - Babyspire, stock low miles&clean
                    1994 Ford Aspire - Crustyspire, scrapped
                    2003 Chrysler T&C - grocery getter

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I would not torque them past 65ft-lbs. There was a guy on miata.net that cracked his head with 85ft-lbs. The resulting discussion ended up with people agreeing to stick to the lower 65ft-lbs or even less. When FM/ARP initially designed the head studs, the ARP engineer came up with 48ft-lbs...

                      --Ferdi
                      If you can't differentiate between brake and break, you should go back to school
                      -----
                      Miscellaneous Pics of Turbo Protege Build
                      Big Front Brake Install using Wilwood Calipers
                      Factory Service Manuals and Familia Brochures - PDF

                      Comment


                        #12
                        hrmm..... that makes me wonderwhat i TQ'd mine buddies to on all 3 engines. i know it was well above 65ftlbs
                        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I haven't heat cycled the engine, would I have to get a new HG if I loosened the nuts and only torqued to 65-70? The paper said 80, so that's what I did.
                          1993 Ford Festiva - Fiona/b6 swap
                          1997 Ford Aspire - Peaspire/rescued restored and sold
                          1994 Ford Aspire - Kiazord/BPG5MR Swap
                          1999 Mazda 626 - exDD, sold
                          1997 Ford Aspire - Babyspire, stock low miles&clean
                          1994 Ford Aspire - Crustyspire, scrapped
                          2003 Chrysler T&C - grocery getter

                          Comment


                            #14
                            From what I've been told, the head studs should be re-torqued / checked after a few months after initially installing them. I've done this on a few engines just as a sanity check.

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                              #15
                              ^x 2
                              ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                              1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                              I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                              he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                              Comment

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