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    #61
    Originally posted by bpt323 View Post
    aluminum is softer then steel that part i don't get shades
    I think they're thinking about the lighter factor than harder... plus, spring seats don't get the beating as bad as you think.

    JoN - Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Journeyman
    Member of MX-3.com
    1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica
    1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE - Raspberry... RIP


    Racing BP (Project "Blue" Marlin)... Twin Scroll GT3071R, breaking 30psi at the moment!

    "Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"

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      #62
      id rather stick with the stockers personally, i really don't think the half an oz. of metal will make any difference in weight lol
      ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

      1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




      I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
      he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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        #63
        What about thickness?
        Drew
        '95 EGT 1.8
        T
        '93 ELX 1.9 SC
        '91 ELX 1.9

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          #64
          Originally posted by bpt323 View Post
          id rather stick with the stockers personally, i really don't think the half an oz. of metal will make any difference in weight lol
          Well if you go the Supertech stuff you kinda have to use their spring seats otherwise you won't get the right spring pressure... well at least for the set I bought from FM.

          Stock thickness is about .030" on the steel spring seats.

          JoN - Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Journeyman
          Member of MX-3.com
          1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica
          1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE - Raspberry... RIP


          Racing BP (Project "Blue" Marlin)... Twin Scroll GT3071R, breaking 30psi at the moment!

          "Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"

          Comment


            #65
            Im rebuilding my gtx engine to get little more power from it...

            Now the bottom is done i started to work whit head. I bought set of supertech valves. 1mm oversize for exhaust and STD for intake.

            I remember reading somewhere that all i can do for exhaust side is get 1mm oversize valves and use regular angles in valve seat... And for intake side STD size valves whit 3 angle job.

            Tryed to search some info about that 3 angle job. I found this:

            Originally posted by D323 View Post
            get new ones that are 3 angle cut and enjoy.

            Keep in mind the BP will flow much better and make more power with a 15/45/75 vs a standard 30/45/60.

            Corksport and other places offer SS valves.... GTR ones are an upgrade too as they are sodium filled.

            new ones should fit so long as they are within spec of the OEM ones.
            So could anyone confirm that i can do that 15/45/75 for intake side?

            And do i have to do those angles to valve seat only and make valve sit for the seat. Or should i do some other changes to valve?



            And last... Do i remember right that these engines has brass valve guides?

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              #66
              Do not touch your valves!

              JoN - Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Journeyman
              Member of MX-3.com
              1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica
              1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE - Raspberry... RIP


              Racing BP (Project "Blue" Marlin)... Twin Scroll GT3071R, breaking 30psi at the moment!

              "Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"

              Comment


                #67
                15/45/75 as donnie said. they cut the angle's to the seats. the exhaust can have just as many angles. note tho the shortside radius is like a brick wall coming out into the exhaust port. if you have someone who knows what they are doing have them knock/massage that better. theres a good amount of potential in the head VS stock.
                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                  #68
                  shades why do you say to not touch the valves?
                  1994 Escort LX Wagon
                  2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo
                  91 Infiniti M30 Convertible - Traded in for Veloster
                  91 EGT - Junked May 2012

                  "Going to church doesn't make you a Christian like standing in a garage doesn't make you a car."

                  "I usually downshift when I'm near a Prius so they can hear me hurting the environment"

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                    #69
                    because!!! he knows what hes talking about
                    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                    Comment


                      #70
                      All this talk about valves. I just got this done up head with Ferrea Competition valves (Ultra High Strength, High Temp Nickel Stainless Steel Alloy) - Ferrea Valve Springs - Ferrea Pro Series Titanium Retainers - heat-treated steel alloy valve locks - Ferrea Spring Seat Locators - port polished with new lifters(not shown) !!!!! And thoes are my new Eagle F1 Tires!


                      ?

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                        #71
                        Thanks for info!!!

                        Im going to use my old GT head. Soon as i disassembly that head i will show it for one dude who had been building engines for some time and ask his opinion about valve seals and head porting.

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                          #72
                          15/45/75 is better for the BP than 30/60/90... Vaughn had a couple of posts about this way back when on pro tech oh so long ago. I tried to find them... I will look more tonight.
                          The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

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                            #73
                            Originally posted by D323 View Post
                            15/45/75 is better for the BP than 30/60/90... Vaughn had a couple of posts about this way back when on pro tech oh so long ago. I tried to find them... I will look more tonight.
                            30/60/90?... I've never heard of that. Desiels use 15/30/45 for angles where the 30 degree valves are used instead of the standard gas engine 45 valves.

                            I wouldn't regrind new valves unless you don't have any vacuum when doing a vacuum test after your valve grind, and that can only be done by a machine shop that knows what they are doing.
                            If you do get valves ground, then for a little performance kick, I usually put a 46 degree on the valves and a 45 degree on the seats, just for a slight interference angle... helps the valves seat better for the break in period.

                            But for HP difference between your 15/45/75 and your 30/45/60, maybe just be 0.2HP. The standard for most machine shops is 30/45/60 if you were to get it cut with a Serdi machine that uses carbide cutters that cut all three angles at once. Back when I was a machinist I never saw a three angle cutter with 15/45/75... one had to go in after cutting your standard three angles and hit the seat with a 15 and a 75. So that meant if you're gonna pay extra for the 15 and 75 instead of the standard 30 and 60, then I don't think it's work your money.

                            If you're gonna be forking out money, just cause you have too much, then I'd get a 15/30/45/60/75... but even that's not exciting. On F1 cars they don't even have angles on their seats, they just use a radius and a 45 on the valves... so all you have is a thin line of contact between the seat and the valve.

                            As for valve guides, stock guides are cast iron... and from my experience the exhaust guides will probably have to be changed in all tear downs I've done. Get new guides pushed in if you do, don't go for the cheaper option of valve guide liners.

                            That's just my 2 cents.

                            JoN - Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Journeyman
                            Member of MX-3.com
                            1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica
                            1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE - Raspberry... RIP


                            Racing BP (Project "Blue" Marlin)... Twin Scroll GT3071R, breaking 30psi at the moment!

                            "Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"

                            Comment


                              #74
                              yeah sorry I meant 30/45/60

                              I understand about the cost vs output difference between the 2 different cuts. I was merely throwing out some knowledge that I remembered reading way back when.
                              The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

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                                #75
                                I had been looking/asking bronze valve guides from couple places. Found only one place which has those for bp engine. Only problem is that they also sell chromed valves so i really dont trust the quality they can offer

                                So does anyone know place where i can find bronze valve guides?

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