93BlkOnGreenPro's worklog

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

I say bumper looks cleaner

I think so as well.

i say the more light the better, i plan on running a foglight grill and bumper foglights... but then again, it will all be OEM

I'm just going to be running halogen bulbs, so having two more fogs wouldnt really prove such a benefit to make any justification for the extra work. It will be mostly for look anyway. I really dnt need that much foreground lightening away. And my hid setup is more concentrated light than I need anyway.

I was riding beside a 2011 Lexus LS460 tonight and our lights looked identical. Its quite amazing.

Bumpers are a dime a dozen. And I agree, having them in both is too much. I don't like the look of home made fog light grilles. But thats just me.

They may be dime a dozen where you are, but not around here. Its hard pressed to find a decent bumper around here, thats why I hate to cut this one up as its in really good shape. Even harder to find a slant hood grill.

I took JHO's front end pic, colored in the grill fogs yellow to see what mine was going to look like once done... DEAD SEXY!!! YEAH BABY!!

His burgundy and black BG? That car was kinda awesome. What happened to it anyway?

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

New air filter, disty 0 ring, t stat gasket, 02 sensor.

Enjoy.



Maybe I can start ordering my coilover stuff to get the front down a smidgen.

[Mazda_Powered]

looks good man, is that a weighted shift knob?

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

looks good man, is that a weighted shift knob?

Nope. But its not bad to shift, at all. I've never felt a weighted knob though. Its just a stock shifter cut down.

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

Future reference post:

The Ford Escorts GT have 15/16" diam. Front Solid sway bar.

97+ Escort/Tracer/ZX2 were the only BG chassis to receive the 1" front bar

EGT, EWagon and Pro LX has 19mm solid rear bar.

http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/show...-US-and-Canada!

Specs:

Front

bolt:

Material: 304 Stainless
head: 9/16"
Shank: 3/8"
total length:4.25"
Shank length:4"
Thread length: 1"
Grade: 5, 70KSI tensile

Nut:

Material: 304 stainless
9/6" Hex
Nylock insert

Washers:

Material:304 stainless
Thickness: .050"
Outside diameter: .9"
Inside Diameter: .4"

Spacer:

material: 304 stainless
Length: 1"
Outside diameter: .6"
inside diameter: .435"

Bushing:

Material: Delrin A
Outside Diameter: 1"
inside diameter: .385"
height: .4"

Specs:

rear

bolt:

Material: 304 Stainless
head: 9/16"
Shank: 3/8"
total length:5.25"
Shank length:5"
Thread length: 1"
Grade: 5, 70KSI tensile

Nut:

Material: 304 stainless
9/6" Hex
Nylock insert

Washers:

Material:304 stainless
Thickness: .050"
Outside diameter: .9"
Inside Diameter: .4"

Spacer:

material: 304 stainless
Length: 1.625"
Outside diameter: .6"
inside diameter: .435"

Bushing:

Material: Delrin A
Outside Diameter: 1"
inside diameter: .385"
height: .4"

http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?50433-delrin-end-link-questions&highlight=delrin

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

Front coilover setup all arrived.

Here's a few shots. Should ride decent too. I should have just bought KSports a few years ago.









eBay sleeve and conical top cap:

QA1 7" 300lb springs:

4 inch uncompressed Tender Springs:

2.5 Spring Coupler:

Depending on how the wheels sit after the drop, maybe some small wheel spacers may be at hand to aggressivify the look.

And maybe I'll even get the es300 fog lights installed, but that may be pushing it.

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

Started off like this




Home brewed coil over set up.


The shop said I needed some wheel bearings.

I guess they were right.


Came apart as I pulled on the disc to get it off.



It sits okay as is, but in the future, I think a 4-5 inch QA1 300lb spring will be on order and installed.

[Mazda_Powered]

cut your spring perches off if you want it to go any lower man (if it's maxed out atm)

looks good though man, did you use an upper strut bearing at all? If not you will probably get some crazy coilover binding. You can use 2.5" ID thrust bearings for coilover setups, and work just as well since those coilover top hats don't seem to be spec'd for the BG upper bearing.

here's a pic and a link for ya

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-7888-109/

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

cut your spring perches off if you want it to go any lower man (if it's maxed out atm)

looks good though man, did you use an upper strut bearing at all? If not you will probably get some crazy coilover binding. You can use 2.5" ID thrust bearings for coilover setups, and work just as well since those coilover top hats don't seem to be spec'd for the BG upper bearing.

here's a pic and a link for ya

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-7888-109/

[ATTACH=CONFIG]54292[/ATTACH]

They are indeed maxed out and I thought about it. But if these blow, i"m turning them in locally under the warranty! But I may order another set from rockauto.com (50 each iirc) and just have them for backup. Better than $100 locally.

And I bored out the top hat to accept the oem strut bearing, so its all gravy there. I remember reading your thread about that mishap, so I was prepared. And that's also why I got the aluminum conical top hats

See, your hard work and headaches were not in vain.

[CODY004WD]

A 4-5" Sounds like a bad idea. Sounds like coil bind to me. I personally would try a 250# 7" spring. It will allow more low than the 300#, but as Jack said, cutting the perch is the only way to fly.

I think I'm gonna grab some of those helper springs for my new setup:

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

A 4-5" Sounds like a bad idea. Sounds like coil bind to me. I personally would try a 250# 7" spring. It will allow more low than the 300#, but as Jack said, cutting the perch is the only way to fly.

I think I'm gonna grab some of those helper springs for my new setup:

How much difference does the cut perch make? And why do you say coil bind?

And your setup looks like it would benefit from having the helper springs to take up that slack at full extension to keep things from jiggling around.

[Mazda_Powered]

Cutting the perches just allows you to drop the car about .5" or so

Give the car a few days to settle in though, it should drop a bit more. Those 2.5" ID springs take a while to settle in I found.

[CODY004WD]

If you grind off the welds completely and run sleeves between the coilover sleeves the spindle mounts like my first H&R-S/R coilover setup, cutting the perches can allow at least a couple more inches of drop and beyond. (think exhaust pipe, cut as a specific length spacer, to hold the coilover sleeves at desired height)

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

Makes since. So it seems, 6" springs, possibly 250# and cut perches may be the ticket.

Now, where do I find a some springs with those specs at?

[CODY004WD]

Call Eibach, or H&R.