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1st gen CEL codes?

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    #16
    my aunts kia sephia has the engine light on, would it work if i jump the 10?? and would the codes be the same as our proteges???? thanks in advance!

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      #17
      bump for me
      sigpic

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        #18
        my protege is pulling the code #14 and i got a new ecu b/c the Barometric pressure sensor is in the ecu but i still have the same problem help me ppl thanks
        sigpic

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          #19
          Originally posted by bp boostin View Post
          my protege is pulling the code #14 and i got a new ecu b/c the Barometric pressure sensor is in the ecu but i still have the same problem help me ppl thanks
          sure its not 41?

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            #20
            Wonderful info from Jho, anybody know what cars the second and more complete list applies to? IE, would the AT codes apply to my 90 323 auto which is dead? Not in Haynes, would have helped when it blew the trans.
            And, what is the definition of the LED test light for which connections are shown?

            FRM

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              #21
              Diagnostics tests

              The test procedure refers to an LED connected to the diag plug to count flashes. I would guess that there is also a resistor in line with the LED, right? Is this just a 12v signal that switches high and low or is the voltage low enough to drive the LED alone? Thanks for all of the help!

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                #22
                It says to connect LED test + to B+, so FEN has to be a ground through the ECM.
                Since it is through the ECM I'd be wary of attaching anything that can pass a significant current to the ECM, like a common incandescent test lamp. That's why I asked what the nature of the LED test light is; it might refer to a Mazda or other specialized tool with serious current limiting capability. I was just looking at a LED test light in the parts store, but it gave me no info that helped. A good qualty high impedance voltmeter should be safe for this.
                I don't know what the actual on-dash CEL is, a LED with or without resistor, or bulb of whatever voltage.
                Safer to just read the CEL on-dash, but that doesn't help you test that circuit.

                FRM

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                  #23
                  Alriiighty... good **** guys just what I needed... So my GTR has developed a pain in the ass miss and after pulling the fault codes is pulling a 03 code... does this mean the distributor is rooted?

                  I dont understand what is meant by CAS G-Signal? Ground signal? The plug looks in good nick as does the the wires... The grounding point for that sensor is just on the side of the head and looks good and secure etc also... So what Im wondering is... Can I replace the CAS by itself? Or do I have to go for a whole new distributor?

                  ALSO would a miata CAS work if I pulled off the blanking plate and installed the rotor and dizzy cap?

                  Thanks guys... BIG help

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                    #24
                    well i googled the problem you were having, and Miata.net suggested to clean all the contacts are re-set your ECU to see if anything has improved.

                    Idk about the miata CAS swap, I'd imagine you would just replace the distributor with another BP distributor...why try swapping parts from a Miata and risk more issues.
                    -Jack

                    ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

                    91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
                    http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

                    01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

                    91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
                    http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

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                      #25
                      you guys rock! I've been battling a neglected 323 since July fixing one issue after the other and admittedly going further than I need to with certain things. After what I thought was a put together car I just recently started to suffer from a rough idle and stall response to throttle pressure. I can only guess that the MAFS i got from the junkyard was not good because I am pulling an 08 code. I am also pulling a 17- sensor code, but I am curious if it is the result of a bad MAFS screwing up the A/F mixture.

                      Anyhow, you guys rock because without your little write-up there I was lost. It actually took me a while to find the damn DLC (data link connector), so for anyone who needs to know where it is, it is a small box with a flip lid near the driver's side firewall (engine side of course). Working in the dark didnt help my case either, but now I know where to look. Question is, do I go used again or go new?
                      1993 Mazda 323 DX, 5spd 1.6SOHC, just trying to fix it to sell an honest to goodness car.
                      2004 Infiniti G35 6MT Coupe, the bruiser.
                      1989 Volvo 240GL Wagon, the new dialy as soon as that pesky Mazda is gone.
                      2011 Kia Forte-5 SX, the wife's car.

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                        #26
                        I have a check engine light that comes and goes. I connect ten and ground and counted the check engine light inside the car on the dash. It comes out to be 2 codes 15 and 17 it says heated O2 sensor, I replaced the one on the manifold 2 years ago and I am not sure if my car has another one or what else it could be.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by bcowie View Post
                          sure its not 41?

                          I'm getting code 41 what does that mean???

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by kromedepot View Post
                            I'm getting code 41 what does that mean???
                            vics solenoid


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