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    #16
    Okay, it looks like this resistor is actually on Pin 1E. In the picture below, the circled (burned) resistor hooks up to the circled pin. If that is Pin 1E, then according to this thread (http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/show...591#post348591) its the Malfunction lamp. I don't think it's critical that I have this is it? I'm going to disconnect it from the harness now, and hope that everything still runs.

    Does this mean I won't see a check engine light?

    Thanks for any help!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by bv323; 08-17-2008, 07:21 PM.
    Project 'Mazda Missile' - 1990 323

    Stuff done: Not lots.
    BP power and trans. B&G springs and Tokico S/R struts. EGT front/rear sway bars. DIY front/rear strut tower braces. MX3 GS rear tie bar. Pro GT(?) wheels. MX3 front & rear seats. Beige int panels now black! Low-buck MP3 H/U and door speakers. Infinity BassLink sub. Remote starter. Pro GT gauges, now with extra redness.

    Stuff wanted done: Lots.
    EGT big front brake/rear disc brake conversion (awaiting install). Fog lights in grille (close to ready). Fogs as DRLs (researching).

    Comment


      #17
      I'll cross check by making sure the wire connecting to that pin is Y/B (yellow-black I assume) as is should be according to http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/show...591#post348591

      This might not solve my problem, but I hope it makes it go away until i can figure it out - any thoughts or warnings?

      Thanks!
      Bart
      Project 'Mazda Missile' - 1990 323

      Stuff done: Not lots.
      BP power and trans. B&G springs and Tokico S/R struts. EGT front/rear sway bars. DIY front/rear strut tower braces. MX3 GS rear tie bar. Pro GT(?) wheels. MX3 front & rear seats. Beige int panels now black! Low-buck MP3 H/U and door speakers. Infinity BassLink sub. Remote starter. Pro GT gauges, now with extra redness.

      Stuff wanted done: Lots.
      EGT big front brake/rear disc brake conversion (awaiting install). Fog lights in grille (close to ready). Fogs as DRLs (researching).

      Comment


        #18
        Problem #1... burning ECU:

        Okay - I disconnected the Black wire with the yellow stripe that plugs into the pin with the burning resistor. It seems to start and run fine. I hope it continues that way until I find out whats wrong.

        Problem #2... overheating (DANGER - HOT AND STEAMY READ AHEAD):

        Is it possible that I'm NOT actually overheating? Could my temp gauge be reading too high to start? Here's why I think that - I replaced the thermostat and upper rad hose (it was really soft and look like it could be pinching off the coolant flow). I replaced the switch on the thermostat housing yesterday during the swap, as it had grown brittle and broken off.

        After I refilled and started it up, I went under the hood to observe when the thermostat opened. Not more than 2 minutes later, I checked the gauge inside and it read at the halfway mark on the gauge. I grew a little concerned, but was tired, frustrated and figured, "Screw it - Let it ride!" I wanted to know if she'd behave, or if she needed to go back to the junkyard.

        About 10-15 minutes later, the system was finally under pressure and the bottom rad hose was hot, so I checked the gauge and it read at the DANGER DANGER high mark for Hot.

        I noticed I had not plugged the fan back in, so, in a panic, I thought this was the issue and plugged it back in. It started blowing, immediately bringing the temperature back down. It kept falling until it hit 7/8's of the gauge toward hot, then shut off. Temps started climbing again until it hit the DANGER DANGER mark, and the fan turned back on. I let it repeat this cycle 2 times before I was satisfied that it would continue to behave like this.

        I guess I'll know for sure when I crank it up in the morning. If the gauge sits at the halfway mark when it's stone cold, that will be my new 'COLD' line until I replace the sender or whatever else is messing it up.

        Does this sound logical or just stupid?
        Project 'Mazda Missile' - 1990 323

        Stuff done: Not lots.
        BP power and trans. B&G springs and Tokico S/R struts. EGT front/rear sway bars. DIY front/rear strut tower braces. MX3 GS rear tie bar. Pro GT(?) wheels. MX3 front & rear seats. Beige int panels now black! Low-buck MP3 H/U and door speakers. Infinity BassLink sub. Remote starter. Pro GT gauges, now with extra redness.

        Stuff wanted done: Lots.
        EGT big front brake/rear disc brake conversion (awaiting install). Fog lights in grille (close to ready). Fogs as DRLs (researching).

        Comment


          #19
          $&^ing %@!$ eating %&*#^@ *&#^%@...

          ... a blown head gasket.
          Project 'Mazda Missile' - 1990 323

          Stuff done: Not lots.
          BP power and trans. B&G springs and Tokico S/R struts. EGT front/rear sway bars. DIY front/rear strut tower braces. MX3 GS rear tie bar. Pro GT(?) wheels. MX3 front & rear seats. Beige int panels now black! Low-buck MP3 H/U and door speakers. Infinity BassLink sub. Remote starter. Pro GT gauges, now with extra redness.

          Stuff wanted done: Lots.
          EGT big front brake/rear disc brake conversion (awaiting install). Fog lights in grille (close to ready). Fogs as DRLs (researching).

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by bv323 View Post
            $&^ing %@!$ eating %&*#^@ *&#^%@...

            ... a blown head gasket.
            Damn man. Sorry to hear.
            1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
            1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
            2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
            2010 VW routon

            Originally posted by jay
            .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

            Comment


              #21
              Head gasket, or not?

              Head gasket, or not?

              Okay, on the way into work this morning, I had some steam coming out of the tailpipe at idle. It was visible in warm weather after driving at 80% toward hot on the temperature scale. (I know, not good, but I need to get to work ).

              After work I parked it at a buddy's place to cool down, since I have no access to a hose. The plan was to flush and fill and flush the cooling system, then add some of the block sealer to get me by until this weekend or next until I replaced the gasket.

              Here's the strange part:
              Even after sitting for two hours, with nothing but cool tap water in the cooling system, and the thermostat removed to aid in swirl things around, the engine reached normal (50% of gauge) operating temperature in less than 2 minutes again. Could a head gasket heat it up that fast?

              Okay, I had also looked into this further for other signs of cylinder head gasket failure, such as milky oil, coolant loss, oil in the coolant and low compression.

              Results were:
              - pure oil in the crankcase after about 6 hours of driving on it.
              - no noticeable loss of coolant
              - no oil in cooling system
              - compression readings were 155-160 on cylinders 1, 3, and 4, with 140 on cyl 2
              - compression built fine and held.

              I've flushed the block and rad multiple times with and without chemicals and without the thermostat.

              Could this a be a cooling issue? How could it build temps so fast? It's not just a bad reading - with the stat off, the water coming from the upper rad hose was scalding hot in moments.
              Project 'Mazda Missile' - 1990 323

              Stuff done: Not lots.
              BP power and trans. B&G springs and Tokico S/R struts. EGT front/rear sway bars. DIY front/rear strut tower braces. MX3 GS rear tie bar. Pro GT(?) wheels. MX3 front & rear seats. Beige int panels now black! Low-buck MP3 H/U and door speakers. Infinity BassLink sub. Remote starter. Pro GT gauges, now with extra redness.

              Stuff wanted done: Lots.
              EGT big front brake/rear disc brake conversion (awaiting install). Fog lights in grille (close to ready). Fogs as DRLs (researching).

              Comment


                #22
                just some idea's.

                Head gaskets can leak gases and not necessarily oil <-> coolant. Another sign is a coolant overfill tank keeps filling up.

                The engine came from the junk yard so there may be something hiding inside.

                There's multiple temp sensors, one for the gauge, one for the fan, one for the ECU, could have them swapped (different ranges...)

                Try running without the thermostat.

                Running super lean, check the sensors, electronics, etc. Perhaps go to a emissions truck and get a sample.
                88 323 GT - 03 Protege5 - 07 Mazda 5

                Comment


                  #23
                  Revived, well anyway...

                  check ignition timing, sometimes too low of ignition timing will over-heat the car as the water pump is not delivering a good amount of water to the engine, in other words circulating it faster...

                  Advance ignition, adjust the throttle and maybe the vaf flap if someone has messed with it before.

                  Poor guy, I had similar problems with my swap.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Wow! Weird timing, i just bought a replacement to the ol' Mazda Missile 2 days ago. But to close out what the problem was:

                    - definitely was a head gasket leak. replaced and still had "overheating" issues
                    - turns out the "overheating" that i experienced after the head gasket swap was acutally the incorrect temperature sender being installed. I got the engine from an Escort GT, and the voltage sent to the Protege/323 gauges is different and only appears to be reading higher than normal. swapped the old temperature sender in from the old 1.6 sohc and as was good!

                    Now, next project a Ford ZX2 (love that the suspension parts from the 323 will work in it!)
                    Project 'Mazda Missile' - 1990 323

                    Stuff done: Not lots.
                    BP power and trans. B&G springs and Tokico S/R struts. EGT front/rear sway bars. DIY front/rear strut tower braces. MX3 GS rear tie bar. Pro GT(?) wheels. MX3 front & rear seats. Beige int panels now black! Low-buck MP3 H/U and door speakers. Infinity BassLink sub. Remote starter. Pro GT gauges, now with extra redness.

                    Stuff wanted done: Lots.
                    EGT big front brake/rear disc brake conversion (awaiting install). Fog lights in grille (close to ready). Fogs as DRLs (researching).

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Oh yah, and the burning ECU was due to installing an Escort GT ECU into the 323. I'm guessing the voltage it sends down the CEL pin is also incorrect for my Protege GT gauges. Swapped to a Pro GT ECU later on and this was corrected as well.
                      Project 'Mazda Missile' - 1990 323

                      Stuff done: Not lots.
                      BP power and trans. B&G springs and Tokico S/R struts. EGT front/rear sway bars. DIY front/rear strut tower braces. MX3 GS rear tie bar. Pro GT(?) wheels. MX3 front & rear seats. Beige int panels now black! Low-buck MP3 H/U and door speakers. Infinity BassLink sub. Remote starter. Pro GT gauges, now with extra redness.

                      Stuff wanted done: Lots.
                      EGT big front brake/rear disc brake conversion (awaiting install). Fog lights in grille (close to ready). Fogs as DRLs (researching).

                      Comment

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