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what should af be at idle

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    what should af be at idle

    14 or so?

    #2
    yeah, mid 14's.

    the ecu aims for 14.7:1 but the stock narrowband o2 sensor isnt the most accurate thing in the world
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      #3
      Originally posted by therieldeal View Post
      yeah, mid 14's.

      the ecu aims for 14.7:1 but the stock narrowband o2 sensor isnt the most accurate thing in the world
      I have a wideband AEM now I was getting 12:1

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        #4
        i have the zeitronix wideband, also 12:1 at idle

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          #5
          Does that work ok for you? Maybe Ill set it back

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            #6
            back and forth between 12 and 14 on mine, mostly around 14 tho
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              #7
              mine idles best around 11-13
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                #8
                the aem outputs 0-5v do I need a resistor to get it to 0-1v

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                  #9
                  12:1? Seems very rich.

                  I've never seen a car in good health that needed to run that rich at idle. No need to even run 14:1.

                  In my cars, I'm usually a bit leaner than stoich. My low-rpm, low-load a/fs in general are low 15.x:1

                  What else are you using for monitoring in addition to the WBO2? What modifications do you have?

                  Clint
                  Last edited by Struggly; 07-28-2008, 04:13 PM.
                  1994 Mazda Protege DX (261Kmiles): Eibach springs, Tokico struts, Addco sway bars, massively ghetto-fabulous OBX camber bolts set to max. -ve, Energy Suspension LCA bushings, disc brake conversion, Carbotech XP8 (front) and AX6 (rear) pads, ATE Superblue, 15x7 Kazera KZ-M w/ 205/50/15 Avon Tech Ra (track), 15x6 Miata wheels w/ 195/50/15 Hankook Ventus R-S2 (street) and 14" stock wheels w/ Blizzak WS-60 (ice racing), A/C delete, BP swap, POS Pacesetter (w/ leak), 2.25" custom exhaust, cage and full SCCA ITA prep possibly in the works...

                  1995 3000GT VR-4:Tein Flex, 332mm Stoptechs, manual steering conversion, custom brake lines with cockpit-mounted prop. valve, AWS delete, DSM sidemounts, full ATR single-exit, 13g/9b mismatch w/9psi WG springs, DN o2 housings, SAFC, AEM wideband, much more, etc.

                  1987 BMW 325is:Bilsteins/H&R Springs, very solid motor mounts, 220k - stodgy daily driver

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                    #10
                    just the aem wideband my car is really messed up right now
                    Im not getting the right voltages from the airbox on 2k where its suppose to be fro 4.5 to 5.5 V i get like 3.5V at idle

                    If I sit at idle and acel slowy to 2200 rpm it drops like 300rpm to 1900. This doesn't happen if I acel fast or disconnect the 4 wire TPS. When I try and drive it it will work for a sec then just die soon after.

                    I have a gtx setup

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by bcowie View Post
                      just the aem wideband my car is really messed up right now
                      Im not getting the right voltages from the airbox on 2k where its suppose to be fro 4.5 to 5.5 V i get like 3.5V at idle
                      Voltages from the airbox? How is that affecting the WBO2's ability to display a/f?

                      EDIT: Wait, did I misunderstand you? Did you mean that you have just the AEM WB right now? And that, separately, your car is really messed up right now?

                      Clint
                      1994 Mazda Protege DX (261Kmiles): Eibach springs, Tokico struts, Addco sway bars, massively ghetto-fabulous OBX camber bolts set to max. -ve, Energy Suspension LCA bushings, disc brake conversion, Carbotech XP8 (front) and AX6 (rear) pads, ATE Superblue, 15x7 Kazera KZ-M w/ 205/50/15 Avon Tech Ra (track), 15x6 Miata wheels w/ 195/50/15 Hankook Ventus R-S2 (street) and 14" stock wheels w/ Blizzak WS-60 (ice racing), A/C delete, BP swap, POS Pacesetter (w/ leak), 2.25" custom exhaust, cage and full SCCA ITA prep possibly in the works...

                      1995 3000GT VR-4:Tein Flex, 332mm Stoptechs, manual steering conversion, custom brake lines with cockpit-mounted prop. valve, AWS delete, DSM sidemounts, full ATR single-exit, 13g/9b mismatch w/9psi WG springs, DN o2 housings, SAFC, AEM wideband, much more, etc.

                      1987 BMW 325is:Bilsteins/H&R Springs, very solid motor mounts, 220k - stodgy daily driver

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                        #12
                        Yes. I have an AEM and its messed up.

                        Originally posted by Struggly View Post
                        Voltages from the airbox? How is that affecting the WBO2's ability to display a/f?

                        EDIT: Wait, did I misunderstand you? Did you mean that you have just the AEM WB right now? And that, separately, your car is really messed up right now?

                        Clint

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by bcowie View Post
                          the aem outputs 0-5v do I need a resistor to get it to 0-1v
                          I believe the AEM had two analog outputs, one that is 0-5V and another that's 0-1V.

                          --Ferdi
                          If you can't differentiate between brake and break, you should go back to school
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                            #14
                            NOpe just one

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by bcowie View Post
                              NOpe just one
                              I guess you must have an older version, not the current 30-2300/30-2301?

                              --Ferdi
                              Last edited by ftjandra; 07-28-2008, 04:38 PM.
                              If you can't differentiate between brake and break, you should go back to school
                              -----
                              Miscellaneous Pics of Turbo Protege Build
                              Big Front Brake Install using Wilwood Calipers
                              Factory Service Manuals and Familia Brochures - PDF

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