Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

nervous about rear subframe bolts

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    nervous about rear subframe bolts

    assides from soaking the crap out of them for a week with PB blaster, what would you recommend? i'll be using an impact gun. should heat be nessissary? i'm probably going to get replacement bolts for re-assembly too. grade 8 of course

    JACK.
    -Jack

    ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

    91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
    http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

    01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

    91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
    http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

    #2
    If the PB doesn't break them loose, try heat. But the heat only works if you can get the 2 separate metal pieces heated differently, otherwise it's a wash. I've used ice cubes before to cool the metal faster to pop it loose, sometimes works.

    Yeah. good luck. sometimes a BF breaker bar works better than an impact.
    No car! I soldz it. Now I have a truck. I like it, but apparently it has a hard time keeping up with a slightly modified 4WD protege with half the hp. Neat.

    Comment


      #3
      My electric impact has never had a problem removing the rear subframe. I've dropped three of them now (two rusty Escort GT donors, one 323 rear subframe - both the same, I know), and all three have just popped off with the impact.



      I peered out from the castle window and looked over the splendor of ROTM county. Yes, twas' a much simpler time back then. Peasants would go about their postings, and I, the mod, would rule over them with an iron fist.

      Comment


        #4
        Man that last pic just looks like a death trap. That creeper is like an iron maiden, esp with that cut off TTL there like a spike.

        I guess if it all went wrong that forklift is there to save the day.

        http://wheelspecs.com

        Comment


          #5
          chris! i want one of your rear center subframes! lol
          -Jack

          ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

          91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
          http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

          01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

          91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
          http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

          Comment


            #6
            ps. thats a cut off trailing arm coldblooded
            -Jack

            ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

            91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
            http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

            01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

            91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
            http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by coldblooded View Post
              Man that last pic just looks like a death trap. That creeper is like an iron maiden, esp with that cut off TTL there like a spike.

              I guess if it all went wrong that forklift is there to save the day.

              Well, first, I cranked the ass end up with the forklift. Then, rested it down on those 6-ton jack stands.

              I pushed the car around to make sure it wasn't moving. Then, drove the forklift up front and put the forks down on the front of the car (to make sure it doesn't move).

              I then put extra jack stands and wooden blocks under the car incase the other stands somehow failed.

              It was a double condom operation.


              Oh, Jack, I'm going to see which rear center section looks the best and I'll make sure I bring it with me.
              I peered out from the castle window and looked over the splendor of ROTM county. Yes, twas' a much simpler time back then. Peasants would go about their postings, and I, the mod, would rule over them with an iron fist.

              Comment


                #8
                sorry to bring back an old topic but it wasnt meantioned, try and tighten stuff b4 you loosen it , i almost never need heat at work , and this is coming from buffalo ny where our winters blow.....
                92 protege lx-

                94 protege lx-

                95 escort gt-ms2e/ms2extra pre3.3alpha5 gslender v2.8-e85-vj23@12lbs----dead--

                are you a thinker, or a believer?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thats how you snap bolts?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    na you do need the feel of things, for that to work right, but if itll tighten itll loosen, your obviously not trying to jam it in farthers just break the rust off , trust me its worked for yrs.... but like said you need to know the feel of things, i do this everyday , the average person usually doesnt know whats to much... just thaught id throw it out there.... trust me i know...
                    92 protege lx-

                    94 protege lx-

                    95 escort gt-ms2e/ms2extra pre3.3alpha5 gslender v2.8-e85-vj23@12lbs----dead--

                    are you a thinker, or a believer?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If you can get them to move at all work them back and forth to break the rust loose. Probably have to do this all the way out.
                      If you use heat try to heat the bolt only and it'll shrink that little bit you need when it cools.
                      If they do twist off drill a hole thru them and try the heat again; they'll shrink more if there's a hole thru them plus the heat loosens some of the rust.
                      Otherwise you gotta drill them

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X