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Sarge's 1990 4WD Protege Worklog

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    #31
    Originally posted by ryan1 View Post
    did you ever happen to find a set of bushings for the awd shift cables, do the bf ones happen to be the same size?
    Nope, dangit, I need to call the guy. BF ones are NOT the same size, unfortunately.

    I will post as soon as I figure that out.

    My B6 4WD has a block heater in it. works great. I should get one for the other one as well, I think.

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      #32
      measure what the OD of the bushing needs to be. there are some nice brass ones available for toyotas that might fit (i have a set)
      Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
      ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
      Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

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        #33
        That's the guy I'm talking to, Carl Crawford from Speed-Source. He's only a couple hours away from me.

        I sent him some shifter-cable ends, he was going to verify that everything fit right. One's ~28mm, the other is ~25mm. That was measured on-car, before I had extra ends, and I forgot to measure them before I sent them to Carl.

        There may be some difference in the center-hole diameters.

        --sarge

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          #34
          Originally posted by SgtRauksauff View Post
          That's the guy I'm talking to, Carl Crawford from Speed-Source. He's only a couple hours away from me.

          I sent him some shifter-cable ends, he was going to verify that everything fit right. One's ~28mm, the other is ~25mm. That was measured on-car, before I had extra ends, and I forgot to measure them before I sent them to Carl.

          There may be some difference in the center-hole diameters.

          --sarge
          please send me a pm when you get it figued out, i will probably get a set.
          5 boosted bp cars,why...

          Comment


            #35
            OK, it's been awhile since I updated anything on this worklog.

            Last Winter, (November/December 2008), I fixed the exhaust. The muffer rusted out on the bottom, just before the outlet. I fixed it with a GhettoFab™ fix, a straight pipe that I slotted, a crush-bent elbow, and a short piece of straight that I had sitting around. Oh, and two clamps. cost about 15 bucks or so, I think.

            So anyway, that piece rusted off the other day. The flange right above the rear crossmember rusted, on the front side of the flange.

            So, I yanked everything off, and jammed my tailpipe back on, minus the flange area. Ended up being a couple inches shorter, but it still works ok Still kinda loud though. I'll be fixing it properly very soon.

            Anyways, here are some photos:

            The GhettoFab™ piece with the old flange still in place:

            Don't mind the crapintoshes or the other stuff.. this is in my office at work, when I was slow and needed a break.

            Here's the offending flange part that rusted (on the left.) Obviously, the slotted 2" pipe is kind of a lame fix, but when I did it the first time, it happened about 30 minutes before I left for a makeshift RallyX.


            My makeshift workspace. The loading dock at work. Right behind the car is about 30 tons of newsprint, in ~1500lb rolls. Nice and warm inside, no wind or snow to have to worry about.


            The end of the exhaust at this point. Loud exhaust is LOUD!!


            Just loosened the clamp, and pulled the rusted-flange section out.


            Put the GhettoFab™ RaceType Rear Muffler Delete Tailpipe back on.


            Side view of the tailpipe exit. A little forward of where it was, but hey, this is GhettoFab™, remember.


            Much quieter now. I still want to put something proper on there, but since I also want to BP(T?) the thing, I might just wait until then, unless this becomes annoyingly loud again, or I just decide to play with my welder on exhaust again.

            Next up, some install pics of the new Brass Shifter Cable Bushings, from Speed-Source!!!
            --sarge

            Comment


              #36
              Shifter Bushing Install

              Ok, then.

              I contacted Speed-Source.net, and talked to them about making brass bushings for us with the BG 4WD. Turns out that a lot of these cables are made by an outside manufacturer for a lot of the different car companies, so the sizes match up between them a lot of the times.

              Anyways, I got my test set yesterday (December 23). I put them in at work, in the loading dock bay. no wind, no rain, no snow. Warm and Dry, yay!!

              First thing to do is yank your battery and battery tray out. It's kind of a mess under there:


              here's a better view, of the top shifter lever. This one uses the smaller of the two bushings.


              Here's the bushings as they arrived. Plus two C-clips. instead of using a washer and a funky-looking cotter pin to hold in the bushing, we use a C-clip. Quick, easy, perfect!


              Here's a photo of the aforementioned cable retaining mechanism. Washer, then rubber piece, then spring-clippy-cotter pin.


              Here's the now empty cable end, and the pin on the transmission. Depending on how worn your rubber bushings are, you can just pop the bushing out of the ring, or you might need to use a screwdriver or some other means to press/pry it out.


              Bushing slides right over the pin. You may want to take a piece of sandpaper (normally supplied with the kits from Speed-Source) and clean up the pin, just to make sure there isn't rust or other crap on there.


              Here's the cable end over the bushing. You will most likely need to pull off the spring-clip retaining the cable to the bracket on the transmission. it's just like a giant version of the brake hose spring clip, on the struts.


              And, here's the C-clip on. Voila!!! Sorry for the blurry picture, I forgot to set the camera to its macro setting.


              Now onto the other cable. This one is a lot harder to get to, with the clutch hydraulic line and the engine electrical harness kind of in the way. First thing to do, is pull off the spring clip on the bracket.


              Here's the end of my cable. As you can see, there is no center. The part is actually still hanging out on the pin right now. Basically, the rubber broke all the way around, making this a SUPER sloppy shifter!!


              Here are the parts that go on the pin, including the broken part.


              Here you can see the pin where the cable mounts. Big hands are not helpful in this situation.


              Another angle, closer, of the pin. The electrical connections on the right are for the diff-lock function of the stock transmission. Since I've got a GTX box in there, with the VLSCD, they're just hangin' out being cool.


              Getting ready for the Brass Bushing to go in!


              Magic!! Fits perfectly!!


              Close-up end view:


              The bushing/C-clip goes on the pin the same way as the other one. It was really tight in that area, so I didn't try to take a photo. Once the bushing is clipped onto the pin, you then re-insert the cable end into the bracket, tap in the spring-clip retainer, and you're good to go.

              Bolt in the battery tray, hook up the battery, and you're good to go!!!

              More pictures, and some with better detail, will be posted up when I do my other 4WD. On the larger bushing, the one on the back/side of the transmission, there was a very slight amount more clearance between the pin and the hole in the bushing. I want to make some measurements and talk with Carl at Speed-Source to see what his normal tolerance is. Might just be a slightly worn pin, so I'm going to also test the same bushing out on a couple more transmissons to see.

              --sarge

              Comment


                #37
                those bushings look nice. but what is preventing them from popping off the pin? it doesnt look like anything is holding it on there
                1994 Escort LX Wagon
                2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo
                91 Infiniti M30 Convertible - Traded in for Veloster
                91 EGT - Junked May 2012

                "Going to church doesn't make you a Christian like standing in a garage doesn't make you a car."

                "I usually downshift when I'm near a Prius so they can hear me hurting the environment"

                Comment


                  #38
                  God dam those are fancy, how much did they run you? Too bad you werent near me I could bend a full custom exhaust for $90 at my work

                  1994 Ford Escort GTX
                  1994 Ford Escort LX KLDE

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by MATT91GT View Post
                    those bushings look nice. but what is preventing them from popping off the pin? it doesnt look like anything is holding it on there
                    i was thinking the same thing, however i will just put the cotter pin back on.

                    Sarge- when will these be avalible?
                    "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

                    Originally posted by neuspeedescort
                    the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
                    -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
                    -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
                    -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
                    -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
                    -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

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                      #40
                      They're held in by a huge C-clip that comes with them. The ring from the cable end goes over the bushing, then the C-clip goes on the top side of the ring. making a cable-end sandwich.

                      Kinda hard to see under the C-clip, though. I'll get some better pictures soon, when I do my other 4WD.



                      I'll probably re-use the pin also, just as a security precaution, but they're really not necessary. The C-clip so far seems to be a pretty stout unit.

                      They'll be just under 30 bucks, and probably available before the first of the year. I just need to check the hole diameter measurement for the larger bushing.

                      --sarge
                      Last edited by SgtRauksauff; 12-25-2009, 04:52 PM.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by MATT91GT View Post
                        those bushings look nice. but what is preventing them from popping off the pin? it doesnt look like anything is holding it on there
                        You know, I think I was spacing out when you asked that question. I feel kinda dumb, and realized what you meant this last weekend when I was putting one on my gray car.

                        You either re-use the OEM funky-curly cotter pin, or one of the new regular R-clip cotter pins supplied in the kit from Speed-Source. I guess I didn't take any pics with the pins in and finished, and didn't mentione putting them back in. d'0h!

                        --sarge

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by almighty4wd View Post
                          Just thought I'd add, ONLY the SOHC 4WD gets the MBSP. the 2WD doesn't.

                          Cool deal about the input shaft seal. Def get the rear plate miata diff. Wish I had one.
                          Not true, I pulled the oil pan on my b8 2wd and it had the MBSP.
                          -Steve

                          94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                          VF10 powered!
                          262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                          13.1@107

                          '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

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                            #43
                            woot
                            Attached Files
                            1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
                            1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
                            2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
                            1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by 1st Gen View Post
                              woot
                              OMGROFL*choke*!!!!!!!


                              --sarge

                              Comment


                                #45
                                I'm so glad it went to good home, even though I miss the car.

                                Kudos!!

                                ...and BPT it already!!

                                Regards,
                                Joel
                                1988 323 GTX - Heavily modified

                                DJT Motorsports (Oak Park, MI) - like no other

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