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    #16
    I finished my project at work so was able to leave early. I came home and installed my summer only wheel/tire setup in place of my winter wheel/tire combo. I took the car for a test drive and now my machine is back to being the high performance sport sedan I designed it to be. I'm so happy.

    Tomorrow I'll check and adjust the tire pressures before going to work.

    Next up: change the engine oil and wash and wax the beast.

    Happy Motoring!

    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #17
      Put on the summer wheels, tried to install my gt spec parts but don't have the power. Noticed my drivers side endlink was loose and the bracket sheard off for the sawybar bushing
      Last edited by o0n8; 04-21-2010, 08:57 PM.

      Comment


        #18
        Fixed the squeak :-D love my baby (my car) so much :'-)

        Comment


          #19
          washed her @ work today.


          getting ready to do an oil change, and probably swap the ATX fluid with some more AMSoil. Got a case from a co worker for $0.00 lol


          Need to do LCA busings. Local mazda tuner sells them, just hadn't got around to it... maybe I'll try for a write up or something. Thoughts?
          The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by D323 View Post
            Need to do LCA busings. Local mazda tuner sells them, just hadn't got around to it... maybe I'll try for a write up or something. Thoughts?
            Definitely do a write up, Donnie, if you have the time. I'm sure many forum members, myself included, would appreciate it and find it very useful.

            Happy Motoring!
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by D323 View Post
              washed her @ work today.


              getting ready to do an oil change, and probably swap the ATX fluid with some more AMSoil. Got a case from a co worker for $0.00 lol


              Need to do LCA busings. Local mazda tuner sells them, just hadn't got around to it... maybe I'll try for a write up or something. Thoughts?
              Are you going to use a press for them? Or rent one of c-clamp looking bushing installers?
              1997 Protegé ES: The Power of BP

              Broke Status FTW!

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Henchman View Post
                Are you going to use a press for them? Or rent one of c-clamp looking bushing installers?
                LOL. You can read about it in Donnie's write up.

                Happy Motoring!
                02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                Comment


                  #23
                  lol, we have a 20 ton press at work. If that doesn't work I'll break out the torch


                  I was checking my front end on the last oil change, and noticed they were split. I had noticed a strange clunk when going over bumps, I'd be willing to bet that the bushings will reduce if not eliminate that front end noise.
                  The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I just had a 4-wheel alignment. Although I didn't notice any problems, this winter I ran over a couple of really bad potholes so figured I should have it checked out.

                    The dealer charge for a 4-wheel alignment is US $109.95. But my local, friendly Mazda dealer had sent me coupons, one of which is for a US $89.95 4-wheel alignment special. With state theft of $6.30, the total was $96.25. You can't go wrong with that.

                    Now my sport sedan tracks straight and true.

                    Happy Motoring!
                    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Yesterday, I drained and flushed my cooling system. Then, using the proceedure outlined in the FSM, I refilled it with a pristine mix of ethylene glycol and distilled water.

                      I feel so virtuous.

                      Happy Motoring!
                      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                      Comment


                        #26
                        I changed my power steering fluid. I switched to Red Line ATF D4, the Nectar of the Gods.

                        Happy Motoring!
                        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Changed Engine Oil

                          I finished my work early today so was able to come home early and change my oil. I had everything at hand so I could go right to work.

                          4 quarts of Red Line 10W-30 @ $10.50/quart: $42 + $2.94 state theft = US $44.94
                          Mazda oil filter: $9.72 + .69 state theft = US $10.41
                          Sealing washer: N/C, free from dealer.
                          Total: US $55.35

                          Pricey, but worth it if you want to lubricate your engine with the "nectar of the gods."

                          The last time I bought Red Line engine oil it was API rated SL; the oil I have now is rated SM, the latest API Service Category rating for gasoline engines.

                          Changing the oil was simplicity itself since I found this really great How-To at:


                          I just followed the nicely thought out, well-written instructions step-by-step and knocked off the oil change in no time at all. It sure made things easy.

                          Maintenance-wise, my machine is now all set for a fun-filled summer.

                          Happy Motoring!
                          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Ye gods, that's an expensive oil change. And I thought Jiffy Lube cost too much. Oh, wait, they do. And they use crap oil. $55 for what you're putting in your car is actually justified. Thanks for the post, though. Reminded me i need to do mine soon...

                            Question, though: how long do you tend to go between oil changes? I hope you're not following the 3000 mile BS, especially with synthetic.

                            'Found a great how-to', eh? Ah, well, I guess a little self-promotion never hurt anyone. Keep'em coming, they do make for good reads.
                            1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

                            Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

                            Comment


                              #29
                              The FSM for the FS-DE engine lists two maintenance schedules.
                              Schedule 1: (Normal driving conditions) U.S.A. calls for an engine oil change every 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 6 months whichever comes first.

                              Schedule 2: Canada, Puerto Rico and (Unique driving conditions) U.S.A. calls for an engine oil change every 5,000 miles (8,000 km) or 4 months whichever comes first.

                              Red Line says the following in reference to oil change intervals: "It depends on how you drive. If you do a lot of city driving or low speed/low frequency driving, we recommend oil changes at 7,500 miles. Vehicles that see more highway driving can go a maximum of 15,000 to 18,000 miles with an oil filter change in between. Modern filter technology and the latest, clean-burning fuels have reduced the solids that contaminate oil, so frequent filter changes aren't usually necessary."

                              That being said I'm almost ashamed to admit that, although I've used red Line for a number of years, I've been changing my oil every 5,000 miles despite the fact that the oil looks almost as clean as it did at the last refill and never requires topping-up between changes. From a technical standpoint, I know that with modern engines and true synthetic oils 5,000 mile oil changes are wasteful and unnecessary (at least for normally aspirated engines) but I seem to have some irrational fear that I may damage my engine, or shorten its life, if I don't do that 5,000 mile oil change. A clear example of emotion triumphing over logic.

                              Since most of my driving is highway as opposed to city, traffic or short distance conditions, it falls into the FSM Schedule 1 maintenance routine. This time, I plan to go at least 7,500 miles or even 10,000 miles before the next oil change, topping up if necessary. Since I use a filter with ~ 20 to 30% larger internal volume than stock, 10,000 miles should be fine without a filter change.

                              We shall see.

                              Happy Motoring!
                              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Oil change
                                Trans drain & refil (I drain roughly around 4 qts of fluid and refil with 3 qts of AMSoil and 1 qt of Valvoline Maxlife to help maintain seals, every 30k)
                                New ATX filter, I threw away the new rubber gasket, it was a POS. I used RTV and sealed it up so I wouldn't be chasing leaks.
                                The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                                Comment

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