Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

What did you do to your BJ?

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Originally posted by goldstar View Post
    That being said I'm almost ashamed to admit that, although I've used red Line for a number of years, I've been changing my oil every 5,000 miles despite the fact that the oil looks almost as clean as it did at the last refill and never requires topping-up between changes. From a technical standpoint, I know that with modern engines and true synthetic oils 5,000 mile oil changes are wasteful and unnecessary (at least for normally aspirated engines) but I seem to have some irrational fear that I may damage my engine, or shorten its life, if I don't do that 5,000 mile oil change. A clear example of emotion triumphing over logic.
    Don't feel bad. I use Mobil-1 myself, and still change it every 6000 for the same reason, despite the fact I've seen valid evidence that it can go for another 10,000 (potentially). That, and she's starting to use a smidge of oil between changes, but not enough for me to worry.

    Definitely keep up updated on the extended oil service. Maybe I'll get braver after my next oil change and run it longer, too. Just to see if I really am being overly paranoid.
    1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

    Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

    Comment


      #32
      Reconfigured my "custom" intake system. It works better than the previous arrangement.
      Last edited by edumspeed; 05-29-2010, 08:07 PM.
      sigpic My cardomain

      Comment


        #33
        Replaced Headllight Bulbs

        My H4 Osram Night Breaker bulb on the driver's side broke. I unplugged the harness, removed the dust cover, unhooked the retaining spring and removed the poor bulb that had shuffled off its mortal coil. Then, I washed my hands thoroughly and with surgical cleanliness and precision, being careful never to touch the glass envelope, installed the new Night Breaker.

        I then replaced the passenger side bulb following the same procedure, because even though its spark of life still burned brightly, bulbs should be replaced in pairs. Naturally, I coated the three terminals of each bulb with dielectric grease applied with a toothpick, before connecting the harness, to prevent terminal corrosion and to facilitate subsequent changes.

        How was I able to replace my Osram Night Breakers so quickly when they're only available in the United Kingdom? Simple, when you're a man of forethought who thinks ahead. I had ordered a spare set from my spares stockist (that's what they call them there) in the UK, Power Bulbs, shortly after I had ordered and installed my first set, for just such an eventuality. Soon, I'll be ordering another spare set from my overseas spares stockist.

        I don't like to be without headlights for the amount of time it takes for Power Bulbs to ship them to me (not very long, actually) since I never know when I might be called out on a night mission.

        I had installed my first set of Night Breakers on December 28, 2007 so the bulbs lasted 2 years, 6 months and 12 days before failure. Not bad.

        As always, my suggestion is if your Mazda doesn't use H4 bulbs, sell it, buy a model that does, and install your very own set of Osram Night Breakers. You'll be glad you did.

        There are none so blind as those who will not see.

        Happy Motoring!
        Last edited by goldstar; 07-09-2010, 07:00 PM.
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment


          #34
          I took my Protege to a NJ state MVA inspection station today for its mandatory state inspection. It passed.

          NJ tests for emissions.

          Its next inspection is due in two years (July 2012).

          Happy Motoring!
          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

          Comment


            #35
            Finally dropped teh front suspension cradle to fix the thread I messed up Oh, and busted a finger in the process.
            sigpic My cardomain

            Comment


              #36
              Coulpe of quickies

              Just bought a BJ for wifey. Noticed a couple of things. The airbag light comes on then goes off like there was a short or something. On top of that the horn doesnt work. I ll remove the steering cover and see if the 2 problems arent related.
              Anybody know if the power or ground wires are feeding the horn and the airbag inside that steering assembly?

              The other thing is the ABS light. Seller told me he replaced one rear wheel sensor, probably needs another on the other side. These things expensive? Is there a way to test them other than bringing the car to a dealer? any advice on troubleshooting the ABS system?
              91 GT- Li'l Bee (under construction)
              2013 Honda Accord V6 coupe - 14.7 sec. 1/4 mile

              New Thread:
              Wilyb's 91 Pro GT Rebuild: Li'l B: http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...Rebuild-Li-l-B

              Old Threads:

              WilyB's 93 GT rebuild worklog : http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...-93-GT-rebuild
              My FE3 worklog thread:http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...ighlight=wilyb

              sigpic

              Comment


                #37
                Airbag and horn problem could be bad ground inside the steering wheel and/or a bad clock spring

                Comment


                  #38
                  haven't posted on here in a while, might be being new suspension parts to complete that part of the car, then it's on to adding more power!

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Hand washed and waxed my sports sedan. That millenium red really gleams now. This will be the last time I hand wash and wax it until next Spring. If it gets grimy from driving in snow and sleet, I take it to a commercial car wash.

                    A clean car is a happy car and makes for a happy driver.

                    Happy Motoring!
                    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                    Comment


                      #40
                      did an oil change, pennzoil platnum, fixed my lower tie bar (bolt was comming loose).

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Posted a "for sale" ad for mine.
                        sigpic My cardomain

                        Comment


                          #42
                          oil change on her (and the wife's BL) and cleaned the MAF sensor. Checked tranny fluid, tie rods, ball joints, all other fluids, belts and hoses. Can't believe I am pushing 70k, bought her when she only had 10k on the odo.
                          The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            I switched to my winter alloys and All Season tires today. I'm always sad when I have to do this because I lose some of my ultimate cornering force.

                            However,
                            A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. --- J. Wayne

                            Happy Motoring!
                            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Well so far the mods I have:

                              Protege5 1.5 svt manual (130hp factory)
                              Injen Short ram
                              Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
                              Fujitsubo free flow exhaust (from a turbo nissan P11)
                              Fluids- Gearbox - Redline 75W90 NS/ Engine - Redline 10W30

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Well, I have been able to keep the car going for 275 000k (165,000mi). I do all my own work.

                                Its had a fuel pump, cat & FPR under warranty (the FPR caused the fuel pump to burn up, and then the poor fuel ratio caused the converter to **** the bed)

                                Its had an alternator, battery, front struts and BJs, intake gasket, muffler & a host of brake parts. Its hit a moose and survived ($3500 damage) its been hit in the back corner in a parking lot ($1800 damage). It has also received oil changes religiously @ 5 000kms, copper plugs @ 25 000kms and a full "tune up" (wires, PCV etc) every 100 000kms.

                                This thing only costs me an average of $56 a month to operate (plus fuel)...Performance parts, I have none...but I should not ruin the good thing I got going right now! Reliability...Priceless

                                It did do a 16.533 in the quarter when it was about 3 yrs old
                                Last edited by DaddyMc; 11-08-2010, 07:41 PM.
                                DaddyMc
                                Superbadd

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X