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96 mazda wont start when cold.

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    96 mazda wont start when cold.

    hey guys, im new here and i tried everywhere so im hoping somebody has an answer. Ok, i have a 96 mazda protege with a 1.5L 5 speed, now, when it drops below like 37 degrees out my car wont start, the batterys good and it cranks and cranks but just wont start, it sounds like it wants to but it dont. I have to keep the key to cranking and stay there until it starts, or until my battery dies and have someone jump me. Now sometimes when i let it sit after its been cranking and the battery is just about dead, it will fire right up but thats rare. once i get the car started it will run great, and start right back up but if i let it sit 4 hours il have to go threw the entire ordeal again.. its getting bad lol... heres what i have done.. new waterpump, plugs,wires,cap,rotor button, new coolent temp sensor, maf sensor, new airfilter,put seafoam in it awhile ago, gasline antifreeze or whatever it is..can ANYONE plz help me on what to do here. i took it to 4 different mechanics and none can find out what it is, even took it to mazda and they couldnt find out.

    #2
    Hello and welcome!
    That is a strange one.Did anyone do a compression test on it?
    How many miles are on it?
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      #3
      well, when i bought it the guy said the timing belt, and the headgasket is new to, i forget what the compression is but it wasnt that bad he told me. The car does move tho when i get on it so i dont think its compression probs. Im so lost with this.

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        #4
        so they did a headgasket huh?
        how many miles are on it?
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          #5
          Change The Plugs!! And Use The Water Remover FOR Your Gas.lol
          GOD INVENTED TURBO LAG TO GIVE THE V8 A CHANCE!!!!!
          AND
          THE DEVIL INVENTED THE ''ANTILAG'' TO SHOW THEM NO MERSEY!!!!

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            #6
            ^^ true enough,what plugs did you put in it?
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              #7
              ok i did change the plugs, 13thghost i dont know what u find funny. anyways, the plugs are bosche double platinum tiped ones, i thought that would have been my prob to but i changed back to the stock ngk ones that the cars supposed to have. i advance my ignition timing a bit but idk if that will change anything. But im still have the same probs.

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                #8
                oo and it has 201589 miles on it i just looked at it... and it DID have a valve job 3 years ago i read it on a slip inside the glove box.

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                  #9
                  Thats alot of miles,The 3 year old valve job blows a hole in my one theory but none the less we will continue to sort this one out.
                  We need to know what it is lacking when it wont start,fuel or spark or whatever.
                  Have you tried putting the throttle pedal all the way to the floor while cranking to see if that makes a difference?
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                    #10
                    few things to try;
                    a) just turn the key to on and not start and let it sit there for a few minutes or so, this allows the fuel pump to warm up and pressurize before you try to start the car.

                    b) what oil are you using? Maybe a thinner oil during colder weather will help your motor spin faster? Oil can get somewhat thick when really cold.

                    c) IAC can also cause this if having issues. What happens is the car pretty much suplies ful as if wot for too long and can actually flood the car. If/When you have time next time isnt doesnt start. Pull a plug and see how wet it is?

                    d) replace fuel filter. Then possibly pump.
                    -Dean
                    Last edited by DeanSweetP5; 02-23-2009, 07:44 PM.
                    'I did nothing... I did absolutely nothing and it was everything I thought it could be!?'
                    -Dean
                    2003.5 Vivid Yellow Protege5

                    Mods:
                    18" G-Racing Kirins - hyper black
                    Eibach Pro-Line lowering springs
                    MazdaSpeed Axelback Exhaust
                    Injen CAI - Polished
                    Tinted windows. Llumar 35front 2&hatch glass/25middle roll down glass/18backside4
                    DaveB trim rings
                    Painted Calipers - G2

                    Stereo:
                    Alpine CVA-1005 - 6.5" LCD Reciever.
                    Alpine DVA-5210 - DVD/WMA/CD/MP3 Player
                    Alpine ERA-G320 - EQ/Surround processor.
                    Kicker IX-405D 5 Channel Amp
                    Kicker 12" L5's in bandpass enclosure (2 of them)
                    Kicker K-57.2 Components up front
                    Kicker K-65 in back.


                    Future Mods?

                    Turbo?

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                      #11
                      I'm no expert, but I dealt with this in pre-computer cars several times. In cold weather, gasoline doesn't evaporate well. Extra gas needs to be used to maintain the proper ratio of fuel to air. As the engine warms up, the fuel near the engine warms, until it runs the same as in summer. On carbureter cars, a thermostatic spring closes a "choke" plate reducing the air entering the engine, and increases idle speed. Cars with computers have similar functions. controlled by sensors and your computer. The problem could be in the computer, the electrical circuit that powers the computer, the sensors that measure the temperature, or in the actuators that change the fuel:air ratio.

                      You'll probably be best off to take it to a a professional mechanic, to work on it after the car has cooled enough that he'll experience the problem. Either that, or go nuts trying to fix it without the proper tools and experience.

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                        #12
                        This is what i do, when i get in the morning i turn the key on, now that doesnt turn my pump on, i have to actually try and start the car and thats when the pump starts, then while im cranking i hold the peddle to the floor, same thing and it trys and starts but just dont. I keep doing this until it starts, but if it dont then i need to get jumped and while its being jumped i juss crank the damn thing until it starts..but the last week iv been gettin up every 2 hours(no lie) and go outside to start my car for 15 mins, juss so i know its going to run in the morning lol..and my fuel filter was changed b4 i bought it, im thinking about doing it again but idk it looks like a bitch to do.

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                          #13
                          do this in the morning when you go out to start your car. crank her over 5 or six times. then pull the plugs and check whats going on? check if you are flooding the engine becouse you may have a week igntion system. some times they may only act up in cold weather. after this test you will know if its a fuel problem or something els.
                          GOD INVENTED TURBO LAG TO GIVE THE V8 A CHANCE!!!!!
                          AND
                          THE DEVIL INVENTED THE ''ANTILAG'' TO SHOW THEM NO MERSEY!!!!

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                            #14
                            The operation of the fuel pump is normal,as a safety feature the computer only allows it to run if the engine is running or cranking.
                            Another thing worth trying is to soak the wires and distributor with wd-40 and let it soak for a few minutes before cranking , be sure to spray the bottom of the distributor as well.
                            Im wondering about the temperature change being the symptom:before you stated that it had a valve job, i was thinking before you mentioned it that the valve clearance may be an issue.I have seen in the past a protege not start because of valve adjustment being out of spec.The valves get pounded into the seats in the head over time,this reduces valve clearance significantly even to the point where the valves are held open thus not allowing compression to build properly.There is a TSB on the intake valve replacement and or valve adjustment.Adjustment is done by replacing shims with different sizes.The system is not hydraulic controlled like most out there but rather the valve lash is set by measuring the clearance between the cam lobe and the tappet
                            and changing out the shim to a different size if required.
                            Compression on engines out of spec will be low.
                            Another issue is seized piston rings,they seize in towards the piston and if the engine was overheated they can loose their springiness as well.
                            Putting major mechanical issues aside,as 13thghost mentioned you need to do some diag to determine the why.Pull a wire from the head and insert an old plug in it,ground the threaded part of the plug to the valve cover and inspect the spark while cranking.If the plugs are soaked after cranking a few times during a no start session then you are not getting compression or spark.
                            If the plugs are dry after cranking then you have no fuel.
                            I have changed quite few distributors in the past as well,the ignition coil is internal in it.Take the cap off and look for oil inside the distributor there is an internal seal that once failed allows engine oil into the dist. unit.Its an optical pickup system and once the oil is in there it may act up.
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                              #15
                              Originally posted by johnMZ24 View Post
                              once i get the car started it will run great,
                              This is a critical clue, guys. Since the engine runs great, and the cars restarts fine when warm, you can rule out almost every fix suggested here. Take it to a professional mechanic, at a garage with full diagnostic equiment, to sit overnight so that it can be tested in the morning, while cold.

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