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    Timing Belt change

    Hi, I'm about to tackle my timing belt and I was wondering if there were any good tips, beyond the instructions in the Haynes manual ?? Any particular brands of belt/tensioner I should avoid/use, any trick procedures to make the job go smoother ? Thanks ! - Car is a 93 Escort GT

    #2
    I have a 1994 Service Manual if you have any questions...
    Pete...

    2k9 Ford Taurus X LTD AWD
    2k4 Mercury Marauder
    1994 Ford Escort GT

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      #3
      Have a helper to hold the cams in place while you slide the new belt back on, some say it isnt needed but mine didnt want to stay put, alternatively you can back out the screws in the timing plate to hold the cam gears in place, dont forget to tighten them up later.

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        #4
        Originally posted by sleeper7 View Post
        Have a helper to hold the cams in place while you slide the new belt back on, some say it isnt needed but mine didnt want to stay put, alternatively you can back out the screws in the timing plate to hold the cam gears in place, dont forget to tighten them up later.
        Or you can do what the fsm says and take the valve cover off and use an adjustable wrench on the cam to hold it. There's a spot on the cam that you can put a wrench on and move it
        1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
        1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
        2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
        2010 VW routon

        Originally posted by jay
        .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

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          #5
          if you are doing the timing belt, you should do the water pump as well. be sure to change the idler and tentioner too. good luck. it's not that hard to do, but i still managed to **** it up the first time i did it.
          Last edited by prakashkamath; 08-26-2009, 11:07 PM.
          ---prakash

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            #6
            I am a terrible bumper, but to add information on the topic... If you get comefortable enough with the theory behind the operation you can actually advance your crankshaft past tdc a tooth or 2 so your crank to exhaust is close without having to turn the exhaust, then its just a matter of working all the slack to the intake cam and rotating the cam to where it belongs and slip the belt on. be happy knowing this is a non interfearance engine, great to learn on!

            ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAY, following a timing procedure roll the engine over 2 times and get your cam timing marks lined and verify all your timing marks are on. This is a big enough frusterating enough job that if you dont verify the timing and put it back together, you will want to shoot yourself when it doesnt run well from something being off a tooth. It takes a little getting used to, but I just had to redo mine at work when I jumped some teeth on the crankshaft on my way to work and I did it with no backing plate with timing marks and I had the crankshaft advanced about a tooth and I got it my 2nd try keeping in mind it only took me all of 5 minutes to try again.
            There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.

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