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How To: Toyota E153 transmission conversion

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    How To: Toyota E153 transmission conversion

    So I don't forget anything I'm going to make this list in a power-flow sort of way. This is a work in progress, I'll add more details later as I have time/think of them.

    Major components/modifications:
    Adapter plate - Get that from me

    Clutch/Flywheel
    - Use your stock BP flywheel, but have the "ring" on the back machined off, and have the face and step cut back an extra ~0.1". The more you machine off the face, the less grinding you will have to do in the bellhousing. For the clutch, use whatever BP pressure plate you wish, combined with a disc for a 1993 4 cylinder Toyota pickup truck. Your best bet is to use the same brand for both the disc and pp so you don't have to worry about adjusting the flywheel step height for different disc thicknesses. Use a camry v6 throwout bearing. There is no pilot bearing, and you will need to remove the existing one from your flywheel. For the clutch slave cylinder, use the camry one. You can bend a new (standard 3/16") brake line straight from the slave to your stock mazda clutch hose.
    With a FWD clutch and flywheel there will be an interference issue between the pressure plate and the inside of the bellhousing. You will need to take the trans on and off the engine several times, painting the bellhousing with dykem blue or spraypaint every time, until you grind it down enough to clear. Somewhere i have a photo that shows where i had to grind, i'll post it if i can find it. The awd flywheel/clutch has a slimmer profile and may not have this problem.

    Toyota E153 Transmission - I suggest using one from a mid-90s (or later) Camry or Solara V6 with the 1MZFE engine. Mine came from a 00 camry. This is the same as the MR2 turbo trans, except the shift linkage is setup for FWD (win). The gear ratios are also taller. Any LSD designed for the 91-95 MR2 turbo will fit in this transmission, I'm using a Quaife but there are several different clutch-type LSD's available too (TRD, Kaaz, etc). Using an MR2 Turbo trans is possible, but you will need to do your own research as far as flipping the shift linkage (requires machine work).

    Axles - For the inner stub and intermediate shaft, grab these parts from a 91-92 MR2 turbo. For the actual CV joints and axle shafts, you will need to get them from an ST185 celica alltrac (front). These can be found at the parts store for 70-80 each. Right and left axles are identical. For the intermediate shaft, I made a 90* gusseted bracket that bolts between the block and the stock MR2 bearing carrier.

    Shifter/cables
    - The BEST fit is supposedly the ST185 celica alltrac parts. I used parts from an ST165 alltrac, the cables were barely long enough but it worked. The shifter and cables from a camry could be used, but the shifter base is huge/tall. Make sure you match the cables to the shifter base, some shifter bases are offset and some are straight across where the cables attach (I'll try to get a pic). Make sure you get all the U-clips and wire clips along with it. I routed the cables through the hole in the firewall that is used by the automatic shifter cable. To mount the shifter I cut a steel plate and bolted it down using the existing studs in the floor (for the auto shifter). Then I welded nuts to the plate in the bolt pattern of the new shifter, and bolted it in. It (barely) fit under my mx3 center console.

    Mounts - You have to get creative here. I can post pics and describe how I did it, but I can't REALLY explain how to do it. As I said before I had to move the engine up and forward roughly 1". The best thing to do is get the engine/trans hanging in the engine bay from a load leveler. Install the axles. You'll find that with the engine in its stock location, the axles would hit the K-frame. Play with the load leveler and crane until you get everything where you want it. Stuff wood blocks or whatever around the engine/trans to hold it right where you want it. Take measurements, make sure everything looks good, then start fabricating your mounts. You WILL need to somehow "clearance" the drivers side frame rail in order to get things centered correctly. Either notch it and weld in steel, or beat on it with a hammer (I used a BFH ). For the front/rear lower mounts you can either modify the stock crossmember, or build your own. For the rear mount, you may wish to make a plate up and bolt it to the trans before you hang it in the car. There is very little room back there near the steering rack once the drivetrain is in the car, certainly not enough to measure the bolt pattern and make an accurate plate.

    Bellhousing notches/modifications
    - You have to cut a sizeable notch in the bellhousing to clear the nose of the BP starter. This is a good job for your saws-all or jig-saw. My notch wound up a bit bigger/messier than I had hoped, so I made a thin sheet metal cover that hides the hole. The middle starter bolt clears everything fine, and the rear one must simply be cut to length (bottoms out against the bellhousing). The front one can either be omitted, OR you can bolt the plate to the trans only and drill the hole all the way through the bellhousing. You will have to square off the end of the hole with a grinder, but now you can install a (longer) bolt and use all three starter holes. One more bolt passing between the trans and plate cant hurt either. Also - the top/front M12 bolt head (holds the plate to the motor) will require a small clearance notch in the trans bellhousing.
    One minor modification to the motor is needed. The rear dowel pin must be ground down to about half-height. When you get the adapter plate in your hands you will understand right away why this is needed.

    Engine-to-plate / trans-to-plate bolts - Unfortunately I didn't keep track of the lengths of everything, but there are only three threads you need: M12x1.75 (for M12 holes in the plate), M12x1.5 (for M12 holes in the block), and M10x1.25. The only stock bolts I used were for the oil pan, because my other M10 bolts had such large heads (17mm hex) that they didn’t fit the recesses in the pan.
    Anyway, install all the bolts that come in from the motor side into threaded holes in the plate. Now mark the threads (I used a file) so you can remove the bolts and cut them to length. De-burr the threads and reinstall them all to ensure that the end sits flush with the face of the plate when they are torqued. Now remove the plate from the engine, bolt it to the trans, and do the same thing.
    For bolts that go into threaded holes in the block or trans, simply select the correct length, it doesn’t need to be cut nearly as precisely. There is one bolt on the front side near the oil pan which bolts through the plate into a threaded hole in the trans. It is so close to the oil pan that you MUST use a socket cap screw. I will include this one bolt with the plates since I have a whole bag of them (lol).
    Upon final assembly I STRONGLY suggest using BLUE loctite in all the threaded holes in the plate. It's only 3/8" thick, and the bolt ends flush, so it is susceptible to loosening from vibration.


    Odds and ends:
    Speedometer - Use a 91-92 MR2 turbo sending unit with a BG protégé LX speedo cable. This will connect directly to the back of either an escort speedometer or a protégé speedometer. The speed reads pretty darn close, within ~5%. I had to slot the bolt hole in the sending unit so that I could rotate it slightly towards the drivers side, in order to get the speedo cable to clear my fuel filter.

    Track width
    - The alltrac axles were just a smidge too long to keep the suspension 100% stock. You can either swap to MX3 lower control arms, or use 86-88 RX7 ball joints to widen the track slightly and prevent axle binding. To use the rx7 ball joints you need 92.5+ protégé front spindles, or 98+ escort front spindles. I opted to swap balljoints rather than LCA's, so I switched to some 99 escort front spindles. Search the forum for more details on these swaps if needed.

    Compressor inlet pipe
    - You will most likely have to build a new turbo inlet pipe after completing the swap, unless you have a custom manifold which locates the turbo pretty high or far out from the block. The bellhousing protrudes pretty far right at the point where the stock GTR turbo inlet is. Another solution that Darryl in NZ used was to space the turbo/manifold away from the motor with a ~1/2" thick flange, longer exhaust studs, and two gaskets. Supposedly this allows the stock GTR inlet pipe to clear, but I have no personal experience.

    Radiator fan
    - After the swap I no longer had space for a "puller" fan, because I had moved the drivetrain forward. I replaced it with two smaller "pusher" fans.



    To be continued
    Last edited by therieldeal; 01-03-2017, 05:06 PM.
    Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
    ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
    Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

    #2
    Do you know if the 3VZ and the 1MZ share the same bell housing pattern/gearbox???

    According to wikipedia the MZ is an alloy version of the cast iron VZ block.

    Comment


      #3
      not sure... the only bellhousing patterns i was concerned about were the 1MZ and 3S
      Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
      ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
      Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

      Comment


        #4
        O god, i hope this fits in a BF chassis

        BTW, you need pics
        Last edited by trailrider098; 01-15-2010, 10:06 AM.
        "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

        Originally posted by neuspeedescort
        the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
        -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
        -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
        -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
        -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
        -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

        Comment


          #5
          put a lift up in your garage, i'll bring it down in the spring so you can check it out and we can take pics from all angles
          Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
          ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
          Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

          Comment


            #6
            Or....i can come over with some buddies, we can just roll it over in the driveway and get the same pics without a lift
            "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

            Originally posted by neuspeedescort
            the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
            -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
            -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
            -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
            -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
            -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

            Comment


              #7
              Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
              ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
              Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

              Comment


                #8
                any update on using the awd clutch/flywheel so we dont have to grind the bellhousing? My GTR flywheel came from the AWD323 gtr. Need me to take some pics or measurements or something?

                S197 Mustang GT Convertible The New DD. (Ford Racing 3.73/JLT CAI/SCT SF3 Tuner/Ford Racing Exhaust)
                2009 Nissan Rogue SL AWD Maximus Tractionous Wifeymobilious
                Previous ~ 235whp 1.8 BP Powered 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege ~ - Sold

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yeah I dont have a gtr flywheel anymore so I cant measure anything...

                  Bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel, put a straightedge across the top of the pressure plate (the stamped part, not the fingers), and measure the distance from the bottom of the straightedge to the engine side of the flywheel ring gear. If this doesn’t make sense I can do an MS Paint drawing later.

                  I'll take the same measurement on a BP flywheel/clutch
                  Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
                  ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
                  Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

                  Comment


                    #10
                    sorry no clutch just flywheel Ill take pics tonight though

                    S197 Mustang GT Convertible The New DD. (Ford Racing 3.73/JLT CAI/SCT SF3 Tuner/Ford Racing Exhaust)
                    2009 Nissan Rogue SL AWD Maximus Tractionous Wifeymobilious
                    Previous ~ 235whp 1.8 BP Powered 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege ~ - Sold

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i know what it looks like, i used to have one. the key is whether or not the combined height of the GTX flywheel and clutch is thicker or thinner than the regular BP setup.
                      Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
                      ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
                      Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

                      Comment


                        #12
                        question on the 'no pilot bushing'..

                        Is that just the way the toyota trans is, or just because it would be hard to make something that fits?

                        oh, and this might help...


                        --sarge

                        Comment


                          #13
                          that pic is misleading, the top one is a 4WD B8 or 2WD BP flywheel, while the bottom one is a FWD B8 flywheel.

                          the reason for no pilot is because the trans really doesnt use one. go try to buy a pilot bearing for a MR2 turbo.. i wish you luck
                          Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
                          ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
                          Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

                          Comment


                            #14
                            ah, I didn't realize that about the flywheels, although I did notice that the 2WD flywheels I've seen look nothing like the one in the photo.

                            --sarge

                            Comment


                              #15
                              the B8 flywheel might actually be a good option, but you would actually need a custom built pressure plate in that case. i'm pretty sure the friction surface on the B8 pressure plate is less than 225mm in diameter.
                              Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
                              ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
                              Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

                              Comment

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