Originally posted by trailrider098
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rallycross GTX
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I've heard mixed results about hot bits in the rally world... I'm going with something a little more custom.
1988 White GTX - #1 parts
1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car
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I like them! but I only do rallycross... I heard they only last one season in big performance rally.... but they are cheap to rebuild.... 100$ a corner... so for my need, i like them alot! but if you want to go for the big rallies, go with custom DMS or something like it! here in Quebec, there is a lot of people running hotbits in regional rallies with no problems!
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Me likey---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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I thought MMS had the b6t lsd for like $900.
1988 White GTX - #1 parts
1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car
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Originally posted by Bob Martin View PostHow did you remove the asphalt sound deadening on the floor pan? I, also, have mine apart for some of the same rust repairs you just did.
Thanks,
Bob
also i got the gas tank + the other parts on mon and today i pick up my rear subframe and front crossmember from the blaster, tom i will be epoxying them.
bob take a look at this, i dont think i posted a update on the yahoo forums.
Last edited by ryan1; 12-15-2009, 07:15 PM.5 boosted bp cars,why...
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Originally posted by ryan1 View Postwhat wall thickness of metal did you use to repair the framerail/unibody rail?
i have my gtx all apart and i have to repair a part of the rail.
it's not as thick as I thought.... just for you to know, there is another part like the exterior rail inside the rail.... so, don't cut with you big grinder....
and yeah, for the asphalt thing, use dry ice available at your welding gas supplier!Last edited by anduril; 12-16-2009, 05:59 PM.
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Originally posted by anduril View Post16 gauge I think....
it's not as thick as I thought.... just for you to know, there is another part like the exterior rail inside the rail.... so, don't cut with you big grinder....
and yeah, for the asphalt thing, use dry ice available at your welding gas supplier!
tom. i was going to start on the rail but i might have alot of running around to do, also i thought about just getting boxed tubing and cutting the top off to make a channel and welding that inplace, or just sliding a smaller boxed tubing inside the oem rail and welding it it, these were just some thoughts i had, once i start cutting i will get a better idea on what to do, i have never repaired a unibody rail so we will se how it goes.5 boosted bp cars,why...
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Originally posted by ryan1 View Posto.k. so your saying that there is a smaller rail inside the outer rail? and possably only the outer is rotted,so i would only need to cut that out?
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If you go to Mazda MotorSports, there is, in the public area, a 323 Collision Guide. This guide shows a rocker inner and a rocker outer, no third rail. However, having worked in the auto industry, I know that the inner usually get a bunch of reinforcement plates welded to it before it is nested to the rocker outer, such as at the jack point and at the seat belt attachment point. If you cut out the spot welds on you rocker outers, you cna remove it, sand blast it, patch it, reinforce it then reweld it back on. Unfortunetly, you cannot do the same, easily, with the quarter panel.
Bob
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