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B8 Festiva swap wont start suggestions?

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    B8 Festiva swap wont start suggestions?

    Alright we will start with what the swap is, b8 16 valve sohc out of a 94 auto Protege into what was a auto carbed Festiva. The car now has a 5spd manual tranny from a festiva, 94 Protege auto wiring harness, 94 Protege ECU, MSD high pressure inline fuel pump (on a switch), and a msd coil.

    The car was purchased not running (ie. not starting) and was in a pretty ruff form as far as the swap goes. Though the compression is around 112psi for all cyl, and it has around 80,000 miles on the engine, new clutch and a new timing belt.

    The car will not start, It wont try to start, it just cranks and cranks. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator (it was bad), checked for a bad/sheared crank key (thought it was maybe throwing it off time?), checked timing belt, checked timing, plugs are wet and at first it would misfire now and then when I messed with the distibutor but now it doesnt even do that. I unplugged the spark plug wire and stuck a screwdriver in it layed it on the valve cover and had spark... ok but the spark plugs are all wet hmm? thought maybe the injectors were leaking and causing it to flood (though I would have thought it would have tried to do something...? So I then removed all the spark plugs cleaned them up cranked it over with the spark plugs out and the fuel pump off, then let it sit for a day, then I reinstalled the spark plugs and tried to start it on ether alone (starting fluid) with the fuel pump off and it still did nothing?

    my current plan of attack is
    1. recheck timing/codes/fuses
    2. new spark plugs
    3. check grounds
    4. rewire coil
    5. replace distributor
    6. get injectors cleaned
    7. swap afm
    8. remove and reinstall wiring harness
    9. get a manual ecu, wiring harness and tps
    10. bang head against wall
    11. bang head against car
    12. come up with a new list

    If you have any suggestions feel free to suggest

    Also is the method for extracting codes the same for the B8 as the BP? Is the rev limiter lower on the auto ecu? what does the neutral safety switch cut out? (ie cranking, spark, fuel or all the above?) Is there any sensors or anything else that I have missed that could stop the car from starting?

    misc info. previous owner stated that he had the car running once (his freinds dad got it started playing with the afm and distributor) and it idled perfectly drove to gas station (his friend took a picture of him there) it ran funny under load but the fuel pressure was way to low at that point. babied it home, turned it off and on several times and it stated perfectly fine, he thought he had it beat so he went inside for the night, came out the next day and it wouldnt start again?

    ohh and Merry Christmas.

    #2
    I would start at the disty, since the coil is firing.
    My car is a Vazondissan. Part Nissan. Part Mazda. Part Ford. Part VW. Part Honda.

    1993 Protege - DX with LX upgrades. Still rockin' the SOHC. Custom HID headlight Retrofit.

    2009 Mazda 3 - Finacee Car. No power nothing. About to trade in for a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport.

    Install Shifter Bushings: http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/show...491#post646491

    Custom HID's: http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/show...&highlight=hid

    Comment


      #3
      to check for spark just use the sparkler (spark plug)... stick it in the boot and hold it against a good ground (valve cover bolt, etc...) then crank the engina over.

      setting a screw driver against the block wont do anything but make 50k volts flow straight to ground without forcing it to jump anything except control modules (be glad you dont have a newer car your probably just fine).

      If your plugs are wet with fuel I would be more likely to lean towards spark, be it spark timing, firing order incorrect, bad distributor or coil.

      when you do the spark test like I said you should get a healthy snap, snap, snap, snap as its cranking.
      There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.

      Comment


        #4
        I did this swap on my TruckStiva and everything came out fine. I used the manual ecu with the 5 speed trans. mine was also the 1994 protege 16v 1.8 SOHC. ...if there is anything i can help with just let me know. -Daniel

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          #5
          i would re-chech that the plug wires are in the correct locations. next since you do have a engine that is cranking, wet plugs and spark i would redo the timing completly, because thats what it sounds like to me
          "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

          Originally posted by neuspeedescort
          the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
          -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
          -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
          -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
          -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
          -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

          Comment


            #6
            you are running an automatic wiring harness with a manual tranny?
            if I remember well, the tps is not the same (connector and tps) on an automatic one. auto one have 4pins and it is a potentiometer. manual one have 3pins and it is only a switch (idle, mid throttle, and full throttle switch.). the wiring won't go at the same pins in the ecu with a auto wiring and manual wiring. make sure you have done a good wiring job. if it's not the problem... those engine control are very basic. if you have a good spark, ignition wire are at the right place... it's either the ecu send too much fuel (ect, maf, and tps would control injector pulse width) or you misplace the timing belt or you have a restricted exhaust system. everything on this car is testable, don't change everything, just test them.

            Comment


              #7
              I'm having similar issues with my swap. The only real difference is mine came out of a 91 with a five speed and I put it in a 91 Festy. So far base timming is correct I'm getting good spark on all of the plugs my injectors are firing. I've changed both the computer and the air sensor with known good ones and still no change. Mine will crank and crank then try to start only to go back to cranking

              I've adjusted the dusty from advance to retard and there is no difference
              87 Mazda 323 DX - Daily Driver
              91 Festiva L - modified to LX / SX
              92 Festiva GL - parts car
              97 Aspire - parts car

              Car enthusiasts will respect all makes and models that preform.
              Brand enthusiasts are the root of all problems in the car community.

              Comment


                #8
                this is too funny... fordfestiva.com goes down and you guys flock to here!
                2011 BMW 128i 6 Speed Manual -- dd
                1990 Protege 4WD 5 Speed

                Comment


                  #9
                  check your grounds too man, Try plugging in an auto ECU, you'll throw a CEL but it should still run.
                  2011 BMW 128i 6 Speed Manual -- dd
                  1990 Protege 4WD 5 Speed

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