Although intended as a How-To describing the installation of Magnecor spark plug wires, it should be pointed out the same proceedure detailed below can also be followed to install replacement OEM spark plug wires or the aftermarket NGK spark plug wire set (part #ZE76), thus increasing the utility of this thread. The current cost of the two-wire NGK set is US $31.95 and it's available from: http://sparkplugs.com
This two-wire Magnecor set is designed for '01 to '03 Proteges with the 2.0 L (FS-DE and FS-DET) engine. The part no. is 45403 and it is listed as being from their KV85 Competition 8.5mm Ignition Cable series. The cost was US $76.00 plus $12.90 S&H from CorkSport (the current cost from CorkSport is US $82.00). Included are two sheets containing fitting instructions and information about the wires. I installed this 2-wire set in May, 2006.
According to Magnecor, the cable is constructed by winding stainless steel wire at 200 turns/inch around a Ferrimagnetic core base. The total resistance is designed to be only 2.2 kilohms/foot, considerably lower than OEM. As a consequence, more electrical energy is transmitted to the spark plug electrodes. The outer covering of the cable is made of aerospace grade silicone rubber and is able to withstand a sevice temperature of 600 degrees F (320 degrees C). This type of construction provides both EMI and RFI suppression, and lengthens cable life over stock since resistance change with age, characteristic of the carbon core construction of OEM cables, is eliminated. For more information, go to: www.magnecor.com
Installation
Tools and Materials Required:
3/8" drive ratchet
3" extension
10 mm socket, 6-pt
anti-seize compound
dielectric grease
91% isopropyl alcohol
toothpicks
The installation process is quite simple. Facing the front of the car, remove the two bolts holding the coil pack on the passenger (left) side of the valve cover. Pull the coil pack straight up off the No.2 spark plug, and next pull the short spark plug wire straight up off the No.3 spark plug by holding the boot. Then pull the No.3 spark plug wire off the coil pack terminal, again by grasping the boot. Never pull directly on the wire itself.
Clean the boss on the coil pack from which the old wire's boot was removed with 91% isopropyl alcohol and then, using a toothpick, put a light coating of dielectric grease on it. Do not put grease inside the coil boot of the new spark plug wire and do NOT get grease on the contact terminal itself. Then, insert the new wire's terminal into the coil by firmly pushing the boot down over the boss. Again using a toothpick, coat the inside of the spark plug boot with dielectric grease being careful to keep the grease off the contact terminal itself. Then, push the boot down over the No.3 spark plug until you feel/hear it click home. The purpose of the dielectric grease is to prevent sticking of the boots on subsequent removals which could damage or destroy the wires.
Reinstall the coil pack by first coating the threads in the valve cover with anti-seize compound to insure subsequent easy removal and then replacing the bolts. The FSM specifies a torque setting of 69.5-95.4 in/lbs (7.9-10.7 N/m) which works out to 5.8-7.9 ft/lbs. Since my torque wrench has a minimum setting of 5 ft/lbs with poor accuracy at that point, I simply snugged up the bolts with my ratchet and called it a day.
Finally, follow the exact same proceedure with the second coil pack and the long spark plug lead on the driver's side of the valve cover (plugs 1 and 4) and you're done. The wire holders on the coil packs are too small to hold the new, thicker wires so I just used the wire separator that magnecor includes to support the long wire from the short wire. At a later point, I may enlarge the holes in the holders to hold the wires as before although I don't think it makes any difference.
Purpose
It's generally agreed that the OEM spark plug wires are adequate for all normal driving, provided they are in good shape and within spec, and even for lightly modded engines. Although the Magnecor wires will provide a higher energy spark at the plug electrodes, anything more than that necessary to trigger complete combustion is unnecessary, although heavily modded engines and those running FI might benefit depending on level of tune. For those running a more stock setup, why then make the change?
As previously stated, the OEM carbon core wires tend to increase in resistance as they age. As the resistance increases, the spark energy delivered to the electrodes also falls off resulting in a less than optimally-performing engine. In fact, the FSM specifies a range of resistance for each wire that, if exceeded, calls for replacement. The FSM specifies the resistance range for the No.3 (short) spark plug wire as 1.9-4 kilohms and that for the No.1 (long) wire as 5.6-12.1 kilohms. I measured the resistance of my OEM wires with my Wavetek HD160 DMM and found the No. 3 lead to be 3.8 kilohms and the No.1 lead registered 9 kilohms. Although both were within spec, the No.3 lead was definitely near its upper limit and the No.1 lead was also in the upper region of its range. Thoughtlessly, I didn't measure the resistance of the Magnecore wires before I installed them. However, using the length of the OEM wires and Magnecor's stated resistance value of 2.2 kilohms/foot, we can calculate their ~ value. Measuring the terminal-to-terminal length of the No.3 (short) lead gives an ~ value of 8.5". At 2.2 kilohms/foot, this equals ~ 1.6 kilohms compared with the OEM figure of 1.9-4 kilohms. In like manner, the ~ 23" long No.1 lead yields a value of 4.2 kilohms versus the OEM figure of 5.6-12.1 kilohms. Quite a substantial difference between the two sets of wires.
Since the Magnecor wires maintain their characteristic resistance rating over time that does not increase with age, this gives us a valid reason for their use. Although initially quite expensive, they will maintain their efficiency for long periods of time making periodic replacement of the OEM wires unnecessary and perhaps saving money over the long run. Of course, a second reason is cosmetic. These red, 8.5mm conductors look mean and purposeful and definitely add to the engines appearance, if not performance.
Driving Impressions
Well, I did notice that the engine started more readily and idled more smoothly. Unfortunately, at the same time that I changed the wires I also changed the plugs (same plugs and the old ones were in exceptionally good shape). So I don't know which is responsible for what. I suspect the plugs, however. I can't honestly say that the car ran any better either; it seemed about the same as before. It sure looks good when you open the hood, though.
Final Thoughts
Magnecor spark plug wires-$88.90
Anti-seize, dielectic grease and toothpicks-$7.00
Knowing that your spark is hotter, fatter and longer than all those other guys with OEM wires-Priceless
Two views of the installed Magnecor wires and the coil packs:
This two-wire Magnecor set is designed for '01 to '03 Proteges with the 2.0 L (FS-DE and FS-DET) engine. The part no. is 45403 and it is listed as being from their KV85 Competition 8.5mm Ignition Cable series. The cost was US $76.00 plus $12.90 S&H from CorkSport (the current cost from CorkSport is US $82.00). Included are two sheets containing fitting instructions and information about the wires. I installed this 2-wire set in May, 2006.
According to Magnecor, the cable is constructed by winding stainless steel wire at 200 turns/inch around a Ferrimagnetic core base. The total resistance is designed to be only 2.2 kilohms/foot, considerably lower than OEM. As a consequence, more electrical energy is transmitted to the spark plug electrodes. The outer covering of the cable is made of aerospace grade silicone rubber and is able to withstand a sevice temperature of 600 degrees F (320 degrees C). This type of construction provides both EMI and RFI suppression, and lengthens cable life over stock since resistance change with age, characteristic of the carbon core construction of OEM cables, is eliminated. For more information, go to: www.magnecor.com
Installation
Tools and Materials Required:
3/8" drive ratchet
3" extension
10 mm socket, 6-pt
anti-seize compound
dielectric grease
91% isopropyl alcohol
toothpicks
The installation process is quite simple. Facing the front of the car, remove the two bolts holding the coil pack on the passenger (left) side of the valve cover. Pull the coil pack straight up off the No.2 spark plug, and next pull the short spark plug wire straight up off the No.3 spark plug by holding the boot. Then pull the No.3 spark plug wire off the coil pack terminal, again by grasping the boot. Never pull directly on the wire itself.
Clean the boss on the coil pack from which the old wire's boot was removed with 91% isopropyl alcohol and then, using a toothpick, put a light coating of dielectric grease on it. Do not put grease inside the coil boot of the new spark plug wire and do NOT get grease on the contact terminal itself. Then, insert the new wire's terminal into the coil by firmly pushing the boot down over the boss. Again using a toothpick, coat the inside of the spark plug boot with dielectric grease being careful to keep the grease off the contact terminal itself. Then, push the boot down over the No.3 spark plug until you feel/hear it click home. The purpose of the dielectric grease is to prevent sticking of the boots on subsequent removals which could damage or destroy the wires.
Reinstall the coil pack by first coating the threads in the valve cover with anti-seize compound to insure subsequent easy removal and then replacing the bolts. The FSM specifies a torque setting of 69.5-95.4 in/lbs (7.9-10.7 N/m) which works out to 5.8-7.9 ft/lbs. Since my torque wrench has a minimum setting of 5 ft/lbs with poor accuracy at that point, I simply snugged up the bolts with my ratchet and called it a day.
Finally, follow the exact same proceedure with the second coil pack and the long spark plug lead on the driver's side of the valve cover (plugs 1 and 4) and you're done. The wire holders on the coil packs are too small to hold the new, thicker wires so I just used the wire separator that magnecor includes to support the long wire from the short wire. At a later point, I may enlarge the holes in the holders to hold the wires as before although I don't think it makes any difference.
Purpose
It's generally agreed that the OEM spark plug wires are adequate for all normal driving, provided they are in good shape and within spec, and even for lightly modded engines. Although the Magnecor wires will provide a higher energy spark at the plug electrodes, anything more than that necessary to trigger complete combustion is unnecessary, although heavily modded engines and those running FI might benefit depending on level of tune. For those running a more stock setup, why then make the change?
As previously stated, the OEM carbon core wires tend to increase in resistance as they age. As the resistance increases, the spark energy delivered to the electrodes also falls off resulting in a less than optimally-performing engine. In fact, the FSM specifies a range of resistance for each wire that, if exceeded, calls for replacement. The FSM specifies the resistance range for the No.3 (short) spark plug wire as 1.9-4 kilohms and that for the No.1 (long) wire as 5.6-12.1 kilohms. I measured the resistance of my OEM wires with my Wavetek HD160 DMM and found the No. 3 lead to be 3.8 kilohms and the No.1 lead registered 9 kilohms. Although both were within spec, the No.3 lead was definitely near its upper limit and the No.1 lead was also in the upper region of its range. Thoughtlessly, I didn't measure the resistance of the Magnecore wires before I installed them. However, using the length of the OEM wires and Magnecor's stated resistance value of 2.2 kilohms/foot, we can calculate their ~ value. Measuring the terminal-to-terminal length of the No.3 (short) lead gives an ~ value of 8.5". At 2.2 kilohms/foot, this equals ~ 1.6 kilohms compared with the OEM figure of 1.9-4 kilohms. In like manner, the ~ 23" long No.1 lead yields a value of 4.2 kilohms versus the OEM figure of 5.6-12.1 kilohms. Quite a substantial difference between the two sets of wires.
Since the Magnecor wires maintain their characteristic resistance rating over time that does not increase with age, this gives us a valid reason for their use. Although initially quite expensive, they will maintain their efficiency for long periods of time making periodic replacement of the OEM wires unnecessary and perhaps saving money over the long run. Of course, a second reason is cosmetic. These red, 8.5mm conductors look mean and purposeful and definitely add to the engines appearance, if not performance.
Driving Impressions
Well, I did notice that the engine started more readily and idled more smoothly. Unfortunately, at the same time that I changed the wires I also changed the plugs (same plugs and the old ones were in exceptionally good shape). So I don't know which is responsible for what. I suspect the plugs, however. I can't honestly say that the car ran any better either; it seemed about the same as before. It sure looks good when you open the hood, though.
Final Thoughts
Magnecor spark plug wires-$88.90
Anti-seize, dielectic grease and toothpicks-$7.00
Knowing that your spark is hotter, fatter and longer than all those other guys with OEM wires-Priceless
Two views of the installed Magnecor wires and the coil packs:
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