The first time I adjusted my parking brake was when I installed my MP3 shifter. Since the console had to be removed for the job, it was easy to obtain access to the adjustment nut. I simply put a 10 mm short box wrench on the nut and tightened down on it until the correct (FSM) adjustment range was reached-5 to 7 notches from full off to full on. A socket, extension and ratchet would have made the job even easier but the adjusting nut stud projects a good distance above the nut requiring a deep socket that I did not, at the time, have.
When my parking brake was again in need of adjustment, not wishing to remove the entire console to get at the adjustment nut (a PITA), I figured that I could just remove the console cover that sits over the parking brake lever to gain access. Although the FSM says to use a tape-wrapped flathead screwdriver to disengage the mounting clips, I can remove mine by using just a little light finger pressure. However, once the cover was off, I discovered that adjusting the parking brake was impossible for two reasons: First, although I could place the 10 mm box wrench on the adjusting nut, the sidewalls of the console made it impossible to swing the wrench far enough to gain any adjustment-once you let go of the wrench, the nut would just snap back to its original position. Second, although a deep socket would permit the adjustment, a plastic shield integral with the parking brake lever that projects out over the adjustment nut makes its placement impossible. I think the shield may be a dust cover to prevent debris from falling into the lever pivot mechanism. Solution: I took my trusty Exacto knife and cut away the offending section of the shield just enough so that I had clearance for a socket. The plastic is very soft and cuts like butter-it took all of about 2 minutes. I then ordered two 10 mm, 6-pt deep sockets from Snap-on Tools, a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive.
A few days later, having received the sockets, I removed the cover again and adjusted the parking brake.
Tools Required
3/8" drive ratchet
10 mm, 6-pt deep socket
3" extension
a 1/4" drive setup would work equally well as the forces involved here are minimal
Proceedure
The whole operation took about 10 minutes, including driving the car around the block to make sure the brakes weren't dragging. Nice and easy now that the entire console doesn't have to be removed.
For those of you who don't have the FSM and want to do the job, here is the recommended proceedure:
1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal several times.
2. Stop the engine.
3. Adjust the brake by turning the adjustment nut, clockwise to tighten (again, 5 to 7 notches between full off and full on).
4. After adjustment, inspect the following points: (1) Turn the ignition switch to ON, pull the parking brake lever one notch, and verify that the parking brake warning light illuminates. (2) Verify that the rear brakes do not drag.
Happy Motoring!
Two views of the cut-away portion of the plastic dust shield, and the adjustment nut, enabling placement of the socket for adjustment purposes.
When my parking brake was again in need of adjustment, not wishing to remove the entire console to get at the adjustment nut (a PITA), I figured that I could just remove the console cover that sits over the parking brake lever to gain access. Although the FSM says to use a tape-wrapped flathead screwdriver to disengage the mounting clips, I can remove mine by using just a little light finger pressure. However, once the cover was off, I discovered that adjusting the parking brake was impossible for two reasons: First, although I could place the 10 mm box wrench on the adjusting nut, the sidewalls of the console made it impossible to swing the wrench far enough to gain any adjustment-once you let go of the wrench, the nut would just snap back to its original position. Second, although a deep socket would permit the adjustment, a plastic shield integral with the parking brake lever that projects out over the adjustment nut makes its placement impossible. I think the shield may be a dust cover to prevent debris from falling into the lever pivot mechanism. Solution: I took my trusty Exacto knife and cut away the offending section of the shield just enough so that I had clearance for a socket. The plastic is very soft and cuts like butter-it took all of about 2 minutes. I then ordered two 10 mm, 6-pt deep sockets from Snap-on Tools, a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive.
A few days later, having received the sockets, I removed the cover again and adjusted the parking brake.
Tools Required
3/8" drive ratchet
10 mm, 6-pt deep socket
3" extension
a 1/4" drive setup would work equally well as the forces involved here are minimal
Proceedure
The whole operation took about 10 minutes, including driving the car around the block to make sure the brakes weren't dragging. Nice and easy now that the entire console doesn't have to be removed.
For those of you who don't have the FSM and want to do the job, here is the recommended proceedure:
1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal several times.
2. Stop the engine.
3. Adjust the brake by turning the adjustment nut, clockwise to tighten (again, 5 to 7 notches between full off and full on).
4. After adjustment, inspect the following points: (1) Turn the ignition switch to ON, pull the parking brake lever one notch, and verify that the parking brake warning light illuminates. (2) Verify that the rear brakes do not drag.
Happy Motoring!
Two views of the cut-away portion of the plastic dust shield, and the adjustment nut, enabling placement of the socket for adjustment purposes.