Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cusco Vacanza Front Lower Arm Tie-Bar Installed

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Cusco Vacanza Front Lower Arm Tie-Bar Installed

    This is the bar that TheMAN at one time made available to all we suspension enthusiasts. The cost for this lightweight, but rigid, aluminum bar was US $130.00, including shipping. Included with the bar are two 95mm long attachment bolts and two flat washers along with two pages of mounting instructions in Japanese. It is designed to tie the front lower arms together and thus reduce chassis flex in cornering. Equivalent bars from AutoExe and GT-Spec are available from Corksport for those who might want to make a similar addition to their vehicles. Go to:
    Mazda and Mazdaspeed performance parts since 1998. Precision-engineered at an unbeatable value. 1-360-260-2675 - CorkSport Mazda Performance


    Tools Required
    Floor jack and a pair of jack stands
    1/2" drive 18" breaker bar, ratchet, and 3" extension
    1/2" drive torque wrench
    1/2" drive 6-pt, 17 mm and 19 mm sockets
    Blue threadlocker (I used Permatex)

    Because I only have a 3/8" drive torque wrench, I also needed a 3/8" drive ratchet, 3" extension and 19 mm, 6-pt socket.

    The installation was very simple and took me about one hour, working slowly in my driveway.

    Installation
    Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels.

    Jack one side of the car using the same lift points as does the OEM jack until the wheels are off the ground.

    Place the jack stand under the side sill towards the front. This can be done by reaching in from the side of the car without exposing yourself to risk if the jack should malfunction. Lower the car onto the jack stand.

    Follow the same proceedure on the other side of the car.

    Remove both front wheels.

    The bolt holding the front lower arm to the crossmember is the one that has to be removed in order to attach the bar. I found that I could remove this bolt working from the side of the car on the outside. The OEM bolt requires a 17mm socket. Using a breaker bar and applying maximum force, because I'm pure of heart and my strength is of the strength of ten I slowly broke the bolt loose. Your experience may be different. After the bolt freed up, I substituted a ratchet for the breaker bar and zipped the bolt right out. If the splash shield interferes with access, it can simply be pushed out of the way.

    Now prepare one of the two included, longer, aftermarket bolts by coating its threads liberally with blue threadlocker. The replacement bolts require a 19mm socket. Because of the extruded bar ends, the replacement bolt head sits more deeply than before and a 3" extension is necessary to keep the ratchet or torque wrench from interfering with the bar and preventing good contact between socket and bolt head. Go under the car with the bar and the prepared bolt and insert the bolt through the bar end and into the lower arm. Don't forget the included stainless steel flat waher. Run the bolt up with a ratchet but don't tighten fully-note that the bar end mounting holes are elongated for possible side-to-side adjustment.

    With one end of the bar attached to the lower arm, and the other end on the ground, move to the other side of the car and repeat the removal proceedure.

    Now, back under the car and insert the second prepared bolt and washer through the other bar end and into the lower arm. If the bolt holes do not line up between the crossmember and the lower arm, just move the lower arm until they do. Although the driver's side matched up perfectly, I had to move the passenger side slightly to obtain alignment-not a problem. At this point, tighten both mounting bolts firmly using the ratchet. The final torqueing can be done from the sides as was the case with the initial loosening.

    The FSM calls for 68.8 to 93.3 ft/lb (94 to 126 N-m). I set my wrench to approximately midway, 80 ft/lbs., for the final tightening.

    Re-install your wheels (66 to 86 ft/lbs; 89 to 117 N-m), jack the car up off the jack stands, remove them, and return the car to earth. Mission accomplished.

    Happy Motoring!

    Photos:
    1. Diagram of front suspension from FSM. Part #3 is the front lower arm. Part #7 is the crossmember.
    2. Diagram of front lower arm from FSM. Part #1 is the attachment bolt. Part #7 is the bushing and remains in the arm - not involved.
    3. and 4. Views of the vehicle on jack stands showing the bar during installation.
    5. The bar in place.

    Driving Impressions to follow shortly.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 04-23-2011, 11:14 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    Driving Impressions

    Keep in mind that when I installed this bar, I had already installed the complete MSP suspension system on my ride.

    Although it's difficult for me to accurately describe handling characteristics, the two quite noticeable differences felt immediately, were a more immediate, precise, and accurate response to steering inputs and a greater feeling of stability during cornering. I'm guessing that both these outcomes could be attributed to greater chassis rigidity (less flex). In any case, the steering felt measureably improved and I consider this a very worthwhile mod particularly in conjunction with my other suspension changes.

    After an extended period of time on the road with the tie bar, I was able to confirm that the most striking before and after difference was in the steering response. Virtually all play seemed to have been eliminated from the steering wheel, and when I turned it the motion was almost instantaneously transmitted to the road wheels, providing a more direct steering response and a more rapid turn-in.

    Additionally, there seemed to be a decrease in understeer which I assumed went along with the more direct steering response and quicker turn-in. Now, I know that increasing the front stabilizer bar diameter results in increased understeer so I also assumed that stiffening the chassis in front through the use of a tie bar would have similar effects, but that didn't seem to be the case.

    Finally, in long, sweeping high-speed turns such as interstate approaches, the car seemed to exhibit a more neutral steer characteristic than previously, even a tendency towards oversteer judging by the rear end feeling a bit lighter, or even somewhat unloaded in very high-speed turns. This was a little disconcerting to me as I was more used to the Protege having terminal understeer even with the complete MSP suspension.

    In any case, these changes seem fairly profound from the addition of just a simple tie bar. It seems chassis stiffness is an important factor in handling.

    Postscript:
    In regard to that trace of oversteer I reported encountering in very high speed turns, apparently over time I've either become used to it or I automatically learned to compensate for it as I no longer experience that sensation. Consequently, with the bar in place the handling is better than ever in those fast sweepers with no trace of instability of which I'm aware.

    I guess you could say that not only did the bar enable the car to handle noticeably better but it also helped to improve my own driving ability. I consider this a very worthwhile mod. Highly recommended.

    Happy Motoring!
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      That's a superb write up. With some work being needed on the front end of my Protege, I've been wondering if it's worth getting one of these, and it sounds like you've convinced me it is.

      Comment


        #4
        Great upgrade! Let us know how it feels, and how much difference there is,

        Comment


          #5
          thanks for the writeup on this!!! I have metal laying about perfect for making my own lower tiebar instead of throwing out money for the cusco one (afterall its my DD & budget built :p )
          so along with new LCA's i'll be able to follow your writeup to install it
          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

          Comment

          Working...
          X