This is the bar that TheMAN at one time made available to all we suspension enthusiasts. The cost for this lightweight, but rigid, aluminum bar was US $130.00, including shipping. Included with the bar are two 95mm long attachment bolts and two flat washers along with two pages of mounting instructions in Japanese. It is designed to tie the front lower arms together and thus reduce chassis flex in cornering. Equivalent bars from AutoExe and GT-Spec are available from Corksport for those who might want to make a similar addition to their vehicles. Go to:
Tools Required
Floor jack and a pair of jack stands
1/2" drive 18" breaker bar, ratchet, and 3" extension
1/2" drive torque wrench
1/2" drive 6-pt, 17 mm and 19 mm sockets
Blue threadlocker (I used Permatex)
Because I only have a 3/8" drive torque wrench, I also needed a 3/8" drive ratchet, 3" extension and 19 mm, 6-pt socket.
The installation was very simple and took me about one hour, working slowly in my driveway.
Installation
Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels.
Jack one side of the car using the same lift points as does the OEM jack until the wheels are off the ground.
Place the jack stand under the side sill towards the front. This can be done by reaching in from the side of the car without exposing yourself to risk if the jack should malfunction. Lower the car onto the jack stand.
Follow the same proceedure on the other side of the car.
Remove both front wheels.
The bolt holding the front lower arm to the crossmember is the one that has to be removed in order to attach the bar. I found that I could remove this bolt working from the side of the car on the outside. The OEM bolt requires a 17mm socket. Using a breaker bar and applying maximum force, because I'm pure of heart and my strength is of the strength of ten I slowly broke the bolt loose. Your experience may be different. After the bolt freed up, I substituted a ratchet for the breaker bar and zipped the bolt right out. If the splash shield interferes with access, it can simply be pushed out of the way.
Now prepare one of the two included, longer, aftermarket bolts by coating its threads liberally with blue threadlocker. The replacement bolts require a 19mm socket. Because of the extruded bar ends, the replacement bolt head sits more deeply than before and a 3" extension is necessary to keep the ratchet or torque wrench from interfering with the bar and preventing good contact between socket and bolt head. Go under the car with the bar and the prepared bolt and insert the bolt through the bar end and into the lower arm. Don't forget the included stainless steel flat waher. Run the bolt up with a ratchet but don't tighten fully-note that the bar end mounting holes are elongated for possible side-to-side adjustment.
With one end of the bar attached to the lower arm, and the other end on the ground, move to the other side of the car and repeat the removal proceedure.
Now, back under the car and insert the second prepared bolt and washer through the other bar end and into the lower arm. If the bolt holes do not line up between the crossmember and the lower arm, just move the lower arm until they do. Although the driver's side matched up perfectly, I had to move the passenger side slightly to obtain alignment-not a problem. At this point, tighten both mounting bolts firmly using the ratchet. The final torqueing can be done from the sides as was the case with the initial loosening.
The FSM calls for 68.8 to 93.3 ft/lb (94 to 126 N-m). I set my wrench to approximately midway, 80 ft/lbs., for the final tightening.
Re-install your wheels (66 to 86 ft/lbs; 89 to 117 N-m), jack the car up off the jack stands, remove them, and return the car to earth. Mission accomplished.
Happy Motoring!
Photos:
1. Diagram of front suspension from FSM. Part #3 is the front lower arm. Part #7 is the crossmember.
2. Diagram of front lower arm from FSM. Part #1 is the attachment bolt. Part #7 is the bushing and remains in the arm - not involved.
3. and 4. Views of the vehicle on jack stands showing the bar during installation.
5. The bar in place.
Driving Impressions to follow shortly.
Tools Required
Floor jack and a pair of jack stands
1/2" drive 18" breaker bar, ratchet, and 3" extension
1/2" drive torque wrench
1/2" drive 6-pt, 17 mm and 19 mm sockets
Blue threadlocker (I used Permatex)
Because I only have a 3/8" drive torque wrench, I also needed a 3/8" drive ratchet, 3" extension and 19 mm, 6-pt socket.
The installation was very simple and took me about one hour, working slowly in my driveway.
Installation
Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels.
Jack one side of the car using the same lift points as does the OEM jack until the wheels are off the ground.
Place the jack stand under the side sill towards the front. This can be done by reaching in from the side of the car without exposing yourself to risk if the jack should malfunction. Lower the car onto the jack stand.
Follow the same proceedure on the other side of the car.
Remove both front wheels.
The bolt holding the front lower arm to the crossmember is the one that has to be removed in order to attach the bar. I found that I could remove this bolt working from the side of the car on the outside. The OEM bolt requires a 17mm socket. Using a breaker bar and applying maximum force, because I'm pure of heart and my strength is of the strength of ten I slowly broke the bolt loose. Your experience may be different. After the bolt freed up, I substituted a ratchet for the breaker bar and zipped the bolt right out. If the splash shield interferes with access, it can simply be pushed out of the way.
Now prepare one of the two included, longer, aftermarket bolts by coating its threads liberally with blue threadlocker. The replacement bolts require a 19mm socket. Because of the extruded bar ends, the replacement bolt head sits more deeply than before and a 3" extension is necessary to keep the ratchet or torque wrench from interfering with the bar and preventing good contact between socket and bolt head. Go under the car with the bar and the prepared bolt and insert the bolt through the bar end and into the lower arm. Don't forget the included stainless steel flat waher. Run the bolt up with a ratchet but don't tighten fully-note that the bar end mounting holes are elongated for possible side-to-side adjustment.
With one end of the bar attached to the lower arm, and the other end on the ground, move to the other side of the car and repeat the removal proceedure.
Now, back under the car and insert the second prepared bolt and washer through the other bar end and into the lower arm. If the bolt holes do not line up between the crossmember and the lower arm, just move the lower arm until they do. Although the driver's side matched up perfectly, I had to move the passenger side slightly to obtain alignment-not a problem. At this point, tighten both mounting bolts firmly using the ratchet. The final torqueing can be done from the sides as was the case with the initial loosening.
The FSM calls for 68.8 to 93.3 ft/lb (94 to 126 N-m). I set my wrench to approximately midway, 80 ft/lbs., for the final tightening.
Re-install your wheels (66 to 86 ft/lbs; 89 to 117 N-m), jack the car up off the jack stands, remove them, and return the car to earth. Mission accomplished.
Happy Motoring!
Photos:
1. Diagram of front suspension from FSM. Part #3 is the front lower arm. Part #7 is the crossmember.
2. Diagram of front lower arm from FSM. Part #1 is the attachment bolt. Part #7 is the bushing and remains in the arm - not involved.
3. and 4. Views of the vehicle on jack stands showing the bar during installation.
5. The bar in place.
Driving Impressions to follow shortly.
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