Tools, Parts, and Equipment Required
3/8" drive torque wrench
3/8" drive ratchet (or breaker bar)
19 mm 6-pt socket (or 19 mm box wrench
Oil filter wrench
2-ramps (mine are Rhino) or floor jack and 2-jack stands
1-drain plug sealing washer: Mazda part no. 9956-41-400
Oil filter of your choice
Measuring cup: 16 fluid oz/1 pint/500 ml (Pyrex glass), or equivalent
Oil drain pan capable of holding at least 4 qts or liters
Engine oil
1.6 L: 3.4 US qts (3.2 L)
1.8 and 2.0 L: 3.7 US qts (3.5 L)
SAE 5W-30. According to the FSM: SAE 10W-30 above -25 deg C (-13 deg F); SAE 5W-30: -30 deg C to 37 deg C (-22 deg F to 98 deg F).
Oil Filter and Wrench Data
The OEM filter's part no. is B6Y1-14-302-9A. It has a M20 x 1.5 mounting thread, a 14-18 psi pressure relief valve, and an anti-drain back valve to prevent the filter body from emptying during engine off intervals. Because of its larger size, some (myself included) use the Mazda 626 V6 oil filter, part no. JEY0-14-302-9A. With the same diameter body, and identical specs in all other regards, it differs from OEM only by being taller. Since the volume of a cylinder = the area of its base x its height, by measuring the dimensions of the two units, I was able to determine that the 626 V6 filter has an internal volume very close to 20% greater than OEM. I in no way mean to imply that the OEM filter is inadequate, but the larger filter may be advantageous when utilizing the longer oil drain intervals made possible with synthetic oils.
Both of the above oil filters are no longer in production and have been superceded by replacement units. The new part nos. are:
OEM: B6Y2-14-302-P1 (replaces B6Y1-14-302-9A)
626 V6: G6Y0-14-302-P1 (replaces JEY0-14-302-9A)
My filter wrench of choice is an end cap unit meant to be driven with a 3/8" drive ratchet. It's compact, easily fits the available space, and makes filter removal a snap; it slips right on the fluted filter end. Other types will work but this is the easiest in my judgement. The correct size wrench for both filters is 65 mm (2.6") with 14 flutes, such as the type made by Lisle (part no. LIS54700), or KD (part no. 3253). I picked mine up at PEP Boys but don't remember the maker; I took a Mazda filter to the store with me and tried different wrenches until I found the model that fit. You may need a different wrench depending on your choice of filter - the adjustable, universal, 3-jaws type is also a good bet.
Proceedure
Begin by driving the car a few miles to bring the engine oil up to operating temperature or start the process after a run - oil drains more completely and rapidly, and flushes out more foreign matter when it's hot.
Choose a fairly level surface and either ramp the car or jack it up and place jack stands under the frame rails. Make sure the car is in gear and emergency brake on. I prefer ramps as less equipment and time is involved. Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap to prevent the system from becoming air bound. With the 19 mm socket and ratchet (or breaker bar), or 19 mm box wrench, and the oil drain pan, slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. It's easily visible and located at the rear of the oil pan. Position the drain pan so that it lies to the rear of the oil pan. Remove the drain plug remembering you can be burned by the hot oil. When the oil starts to flow, it will be directed to the rear of the car and will "walk" forward as it empties. Move the drain pan with it, as required, to avoid spillage on the ground.
Now come topside with the drain plug and allow sufficlent time for a complete drain. Replace the sealing washer with the new one you obtained, and with the torque wrench, ratchet, 19 mm socket and oil filter wrench in hand, go back underneath to reinstall the drain plug. The FSM calls for 22 to 30 ft/lb (30 to 41 N-m). As always, I choose the midpoint. After the drain plug is secure, move the drain pan out of the way and position your body under the drain plug. If you look directly up, you'll see the oil filter (the Mazda models are painted white).
Affix your oil filter wrench, loosen and remove the old filter, and place it on the drain pan. Select the new filter, coat the sealing gasket with clean engine oil and install it. Tighten it as much as you can using your hands only. Do not tighten it with the wrench. I always follow this method and have never had a trace of leakage nor a problem removing it when the next oil change is due. Of course, being pure of heart my strength is as the strength of ten.
Remove all tools and the drain pan from under the car and proceed to the refill.
WITH OEM FILTER:
The FSM specifies 3.7 qts (3.5 L) in the 2.0 L engine for an oil and filter replacement. Since 3.7 qts = 3 qts, 22 fluid oz, add 3 qts of oil and then use the measuring cup to add an additional 22 oz. Alternatively, add 3.0 L and then use the cup to meaure an additional 500 ml.
WITH 626 V6 FILTER:
Since the FSM states that the OEM filter alone holds .2 qt (6.4 fluid oz), we can calculate how much more oil is required due to the larger internal volume of this filter. I don't intend to show the calculations but it works out to ~ an additional 2 fluid oz. Thus, add 3 qts of oil and then an additional 24 oz, utilizing the measuring cup. Likewise, since 2 oz is ~ 60 ml, add an additional 60 ml of oil for a total of 3.0 L, 560 ml.
When the refill is complete, replace the oil filler cap, start the engine and run it for awhile, checking for leaks. There should be none. Shut the engine off, allow for a short drain-down period and check the oil level with the dipstick. Using my method, the oil level always appears slightly high on the dipstick but I've never had any problems. Close the hood.
Bring the car to ground and congratulate yourself on a job well done.
Happy Motoring!
Photos:
1. End cap oil wrench
2. Drain plug at rear of oil pan; the blue bar is an aftermarket tie bar, not an OEM part
3. View of drain plug with ratchet and socket in place; blue bar is not OEM
4. View of 626 V6 oil filter looking up from underneath the car.
3/8" drive torque wrench
3/8" drive ratchet (or breaker bar)
19 mm 6-pt socket (or 19 mm box wrench
Oil filter wrench
2-ramps (mine are Rhino) or floor jack and 2-jack stands
1-drain plug sealing washer: Mazda part no. 9956-41-400
Oil filter of your choice
Measuring cup: 16 fluid oz/1 pint/500 ml (Pyrex glass), or equivalent
Oil drain pan capable of holding at least 4 qts or liters
Engine oil
1.6 L: 3.4 US qts (3.2 L)
1.8 and 2.0 L: 3.7 US qts (3.5 L)
SAE 5W-30. According to the FSM: SAE 10W-30 above -25 deg C (-13 deg F); SAE 5W-30: -30 deg C to 37 deg C (-22 deg F to 98 deg F).
Oil Filter and Wrench Data
The OEM filter's part no. is B6Y1-14-302-9A. It has a M20 x 1.5 mounting thread, a 14-18 psi pressure relief valve, and an anti-drain back valve to prevent the filter body from emptying during engine off intervals. Because of its larger size, some (myself included) use the Mazda 626 V6 oil filter, part no. JEY0-14-302-9A. With the same diameter body, and identical specs in all other regards, it differs from OEM only by being taller. Since the volume of a cylinder = the area of its base x its height, by measuring the dimensions of the two units, I was able to determine that the 626 V6 filter has an internal volume very close to 20% greater than OEM. I in no way mean to imply that the OEM filter is inadequate, but the larger filter may be advantageous when utilizing the longer oil drain intervals made possible with synthetic oils.
Both of the above oil filters are no longer in production and have been superceded by replacement units. The new part nos. are:
OEM: B6Y2-14-302-P1 (replaces B6Y1-14-302-9A)
626 V6: G6Y0-14-302-P1 (replaces JEY0-14-302-9A)
My filter wrench of choice is an end cap unit meant to be driven with a 3/8" drive ratchet. It's compact, easily fits the available space, and makes filter removal a snap; it slips right on the fluted filter end. Other types will work but this is the easiest in my judgement. The correct size wrench for both filters is 65 mm (2.6") with 14 flutes, such as the type made by Lisle (part no. LIS54700), or KD (part no. 3253). I picked mine up at PEP Boys but don't remember the maker; I took a Mazda filter to the store with me and tried different wrenches until I found the model that fit. You may need a different wrench depending on your choice of filter - the adjustable, universal, 3-jaws type is also a good bet.
Proceedure
Begin by driving the car a few miles to bring the engine oil up to operating temperature or start the process after a run - oil drains more completely and rapidly, and flushes out more foreign matter when it's hot.
Choose a fairly level surface and either ramp the car or jack it up and place jack stands under the frame rails. Make sure the car is in gear and emergency brake on. I prefer ramps as less equipment and time is involved. Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap to prevent the system from becoming air bound. With the 19 mm socket and ratchet (or breaker bar), or 19 mm box wrench, and the oil drain pan, slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. It's easily visible and located at the rear of the oil pan. Position the drain pan so that it lies to the rear of the oil pan. Remove the drain plug remembering you can be burned by the hot oil. When the oil starts to flow, it will be directed to the rear of the car and will "walk" forward as it empties. Move the drain pan with it, as required, to avoid spillage on the ground.
Now come topside with the drain plug and allow sufficlent time for a complete drain. Replace the sealing washer with the new one you obtained, and with the torque wrench, ratchet, 19 mm socket and oil filter wrench in hand, go back underneath to reinstall the drain plug. The FSM calls for 22 to 30 ft/lb (30 to 41 N-m). As always, I choose the midpoint. After the drain plug is secure, move the drain pan out of the way and position your body under the drain plug. If you look directly up, you'll see the oil filter (the Mazda models are painted white).
Affix your oil filter wrench, loosen and remove the old filter, and place it on the drain pan. Select the new filter, coat the sealing gasket with clean engine oil and install it. Tighten it as much as you can using your hands only. Do not tighten it with the wrench. I always follow this method and have never had a trace of leakage nor a problem removing it when the next oil change is due. Of course, being pure of heart my strength is as the strength of ten.
Remove all tools and the drain pan from under the car and proceed to the refill.
WITH OEM FILTER:
The FSM specifies 3.7 qts (3.5 L) in the 2.0 L engine for an oil and filter replacement. Since 3.7 qts = 3 qts, 22 fluid oz, add 3 qts of oil and then use the measuring cup to add an additional 22 oz. Alternatively, add 3.0 L and then use the cup to meaure an additional 500 ml.
WITH 626 V6 FILTER:
Since the FSM states that the OEM filter alone holds .2 qt (6.4 fluid oz), we can calculate how much more oil is required due to the larger internal volume of this filter. I don't intend to show the calculations but it works out to ~ an additional 2 fluid oz. Thus, add 3 qts of oil and then an additional 24 oz, utilizing the measuring cup. Likewise, since 2 oz is ~ 60 ml, add an additional 60 ml of oil for a total of 3.0 L, 560 ml.
When the refill is complete, replace the oil filler cap, start the engine and run it for awhile, checking for leaks. There should be none. Shut the engine off, allow for a short drain-down period and check the oil level with the dipstick. Using my method, the oil level always appears slightly high on the dipstick but I've never had any problems. Close the hood.
Bring the car to ground and congratulate yourself on a job well done.
Happy Motoring!
Photos:
1. End cap oil wrench
2. Drain plug at rear of oil pan; the blue bar is an aftermarket tie bar, not an OEM part
3. View of drain plug with ratchet and socket in place; blue bar is not OEM
4. View of 626 V6 oil filter looking up from underneath the car.
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