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Engine Oil Change, BJ

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    Engine Oil Change, BJ

    Tools, Parts, and Equipment Required
    3/8" drive torque wrench
    3/8" drive ratchet (or breaker bar)
    19 mm 6-pt socket (or 19 mm box wrench
    Oil filter wrench
    2-ramps (mine are Rhino) or floor jack and 2-jack stands
    1-drain plug sealing washer: Mazda part no. 9956-41-400
    Oil filter of your choice
    Measuring cup: 16 fluid oz/1 pint/500 ml (Pyrex glass), or equivalent
    Oil drain pan capable of holding at least 4 qts or liters

    Engine oil
    1.6 L: 3.4 US qts (3.2 L)
    1.8 and 2.0 L: 3.7 US qts (3.5 L)
    SAE 5W-30. According to the FSM: SAE 10W-30 above -25 deg C (-13 deg F); SAE 5W-30: -30 deg C to 37 deg C (-22 deg F to 98 deg F).

    Oil Filter and Wrench Data
    The OEM filter's part no. is B6Y1-14-302-9A. It has a M20 x 1.5 mounting thread, a 14-18 psi pressure relief valve, and an anti-drain back valve to prevent the filter body from emptying during engine off intervals. Because of its larger size, some (myself included) use the Mazda 626 V6 oil filter, part no. JEY0-14-302-9A. With the same diameter body, and identical specs in all other regards, it differs from OEM only by being taller. Since the volume of a cylinder = the area of its base x its height, by measuring the dimensions of the two units, I was able to determine that the 626 V6 filter has an internal volume very close to 20% greater than OEM. I in no way mean to imply that the OEM filter is inadequate, but the larger filter may be advantageous when utilizing the longer oil drain intervals made possible with synthetic oils.

    Both of the above oil filters are no longer in production and have been superceded by replacement units. The new part nos. are:
    OEM: B6Y2-14-302-P1 (replaces B6Y1-14-302-9A)
    626 V6: G6Y0-14-302-P1 (replaces JEY0-14-302-9A)

    My filter wrench of choice is an end cap unit meant to be driven with a 3/8" drive ratchet. It's compact, easily fits the available space, and makes filter removal a snap; it slips right on the fluted filter end. Other types will work but this is the easiest in my judgement. The correct size wrench for both filters is 65 mm (2.6") with 14 flutes, such as the type made by Lisle (part no. LIS54700), or KD (part no. 3253). I picked mine up at PEP Boys but don't remember the maker; I took a Mazda filter to the store with me and tried different wrenches until I found the model that fit. You may need a different wrench depending on your choice of filter - the adjustable, universal, 3-jaws type is also a good bet.

    Proceedure
    Begin by driving the car a few miles to bring the engine oil up to operating temperature or start the process after a run - oil drains more completely and rapidly, and flushes out more foreign matter when it's hot.

    Choose a fairly level surface and either ramp the car or jack it up and place jack stands under the frame rails. Make sure the car is in gear and emergency brake on. I prefer ramps as less equipment and time is involved. Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap to prevent the system from becoming air bound. With the 19 mm socket and ratchet (or breaker bar), or 19 mm box wrench, and the oil drain pan, slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. It's easily visible and located at the rear of the oil pan. Position the drain pan so that it lies to the rear of the oil pan. Remove the drain plug remembering you can be burned by the hot oil. When the oil starts to flow, it will be directed to the rear of the car and will "walk" forward as it empties. Move the drain pan with it, as required, to avoid spillage on the ground.

    Now come topside with the drain plug and allow sufficlent time for a complete drain. Replace the sealing washer with the new one you obtained, and with the torque wrench, ratchet, 19 mm socket and oil filter wrench in hand, go back underneath to reinstall the drain plug. The FSM calls for 22 to 30 ft/lb (30 to 41 N-m). As always, I choose the midpoint. After the drain plug is secure, move the drain pan out of the way and position your body under the drain plug. If you look directly up, you'll see the oil filter (the Mazda models are painted white).

    Affix your oil filter wrench, loosen and remove the old filter, and place it on the drain pan. Select the new filter, coat the sealing gasket with clean engine oil and install it. Tighten it as much as you can using your hands only. Do not tighten it with the wrench. I always follow this method and have never had a trace of leakage nor a problem removing it when the next oil change is due. Of course, being pure of heart my strength is as the strength of ten.

    Remove all tools and the drain pan from under the car and proceed to the refill.
    WITH OEM FILTER:
    The FSM specifies 3.7 qts (3.5 L) in the 2.0 L engine for an oil and filter replacement. Since 3.7 qts = 3 qts, 22 fluid oz, add 3 qts of oil and then use the measuring cup to add an additional 22 oz. Alternatively, add 3.0 L and then use the cup to meaure an additional 500 ml.

    WITH 626 V6 FILTER:
    Since the FSM states that the OEM filter alone holds .2 qt (6.4 fluid oz), we can calculate how much more oil is required due to the larger internal volume of this filter. I don't intend to show the calculations but it works out to ~ an additional 2 fluid oz. Thus, add 3 qts of oil and then an additional 24 oz, utilizing the measuring cup. Likewise, since 2 oz is ~ 60 ml, add an additional 60 ml of oil for a total of 3.0 L, 560 ml.

    When the refill is complete, replace the oil filler cap, start the engine and run it for awhile, checking for leaks. There should be none. Shut the engine off, allow for a short drain-down period and check the oil level with the dipstick. Using my method, the oil level always appears slightly high on the dipstick but I've never had any problems. Close the hood.

    Bring the car to ground and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

    Happy Motoring!

    Photos:
    1. End cap oil wrench
    2. Drain plug at rear of oil pan; the blue bar is an aftermarket tie bar, not an OEM part
    3. View of drain plug with ratchet and socket in place; blue bar is not OEM
    4. View of 626 V6 oil filter looking up from underneath the car.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 08-30-2014, 08:58 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    Changing Engine Oil with Front Lower Arm Tie Bar Installed

    This material applies only to vehicles with an aftermarket lower arm tie bar installed.

    The Problem
    The proceedure is the same as in post #1 until you reach the stage of drain plug reinstallation. The tie bar is located close to the plane of the drain plug's location such that little clearance exists between the two components. As the photo in the first post indicates, there is enough clearance to fit a 3/8" drive 19 mm socket and ratchet in place to remove the drain plug. Of course, a box wrench could also be used.

    The problem comes with reinstallation as the limited clearance will not accomodate a torque wrench and socket.

    Although not a problem, I should point out that due to the tie bar's location, when the drain plug is first removed the oil will flow rearward and coat the end of the tie bar until the dwindling stream directs itself forward. Not a problem. Simply bring a shop rag underneath to wipe off the residue and restore everything to a pristine state.

    The Solution
    Fortunately, an easy one. Attach the socket to a 6" extension bar. The extension bar will pass over the tie bar and just clear it, permitting the torque wrench to be placed behind it in an open area.

    Happy Motoring!

    Below is a photo of the placement of the socket and extension bar showing how the arrangement clears the tie bar allowing use of the torque wrench for tightening.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 09-14-2011, 11:33 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      Oil Change Intervals

      The FSM specifies two levels of maintenance.

      Schedule 1: (Normal driving conditions) U.S.A.
      This schedule calls for an oil change every 7,500 miles (12,000 km).

      Notwithstanding the recommendation, my Mazda dealer did an oil change at every 5,000 mile service before I started doing my own.

      Although I use synthetic oil, I change my oil at 5,000 mile intervals. Most synthetic oil makers suggest extended oil change intervals (see their specific recommendations) but for warranty purposes it's advisable to follow OEM recommendations. However, I'm sure that I could extend my oil change intervals to 7,500 or even 10,000 miles with the synthetic oil I'm currently using. Why don't I? Probably simple irrational fear that eats away inside of me and causes a little voice inside my head to constantly tell me that more frequent oil changes are better.

      In fact, The oil I use, Red Line (an API Group 5, Polyol ester formulation), recommends 7,500 mile (12,000 km) oil changes for vehicles that are used mostly for city or low speed/low frequency driving, and a maximum of 15,000 to 18,000 mile (24,000 to 29,000 km) oil changes with an oil filter replacement in between, in the case of vehicles used mostly for highway driving.

      Schedule 2: Canada, Puerto Rico and (Unique driving conditions) U.S.A.
      Unique driving conditions are defined as follows:
      Repeated short-distance driving
      Driving in dusty conditions
      Driving with extended use of brakes
      Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are used
      Driving on rough or muddy roads
      Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation
      Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates

      This schedule calls for an oil change every 5,000 miles (8,000 km).

      Obviously, those who drive track, strip or autoX events, or convert to turbo (or hear voices inside their head), may want to schedule more frequent oil changes.

      Happy Motoring!
      Last edited by goldstar; 01-05-2010, 09:41 AM.
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment


        #4
        Thinking about the Mazdas I've had, they've been sewing machine reliable. I commute about 600 miles mixed driving a week. With my first, a used 323, found in a storage unit for $500 I started with Amsoil and a Wix filter. Found that a taller Wix filter fit and added filtration so I went with it. Amsoil said they were good for 25K between changes, so about every 90 days I changed the filter and topped her off, renewing the oil once a year. Drove her until an idiot hit me hard enough on the interstate to blow out the back window and total her at 379,500 miles. Sad, but staying with the Mazda brand, I found a 2000 Protégé LX all rusty but maintained for $2200 and drove her until last week when the radiator blew out without any warning and lunched the motor before I could get to a safe spot. This one had 236,400 miles. I couldn't find Amsoil reliably for the last 4 years, so I have kept the same schedule with Mobil 1 Extended Gold and Wix #51356. Just found an '02 P5 with 133k for $2500 so the saga continues....

        Comment


          #5
          changing the filter on a regular basis is critical, far more important than changing the oil itself.
          glad to hear you take proper caution in maintaining your cars
          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

          Comment


            #6
            Thank you very much it helped a lot I was trying to change the oil in a towing truck now I have done thank you very much for this.
            Last edited by adamwine; 04-01-2019, 11:35 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by adamwine View Post
              Thank you very much it helped a lot i was trying to change the oil in a ritewaytowingnyc now I have done thank you very much for this.
              You're welcome. I'm glad you found this useful.

              Happy Motoring!
              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

              Comment


                #8
                ^potential spam link??
                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post
                  ^potential spam link??
                  Maybe! I didn't realize it when I replied to his post.
                  02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                  MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                  MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                  Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                  MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                  Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                  Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                  Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                  Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                  Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                  Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                  Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                  Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                  Comment

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