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Manual Transmission Oil Change, BJ

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    Manual Transmission Oil Change, BJ

    Tools, Parts, and Equipment Required
    3/8" drive torque wrench
    23 mm 6-pt. socket
    3/8" drive ratchet (or breaker bar)
    10 mm socket or box wrench
    2-ramps (mine are Rhino) or floor jack and 2-jack stands
    2-sealing washers: Mazda part no. 9956-41-800
    Funnel with attached extension tube (PEP Boys)
    Measuring cup: 16 fluid oz/1 pint/500 ml (Pyrex glass), or equivalent
    Oil drain pan capable of holding at least 3 qts or liters
    M/T oil: 2.83 qts (2.68 L) API Service GL-4 or GL-5, SAE 75W-90 (All season). SAE 80W-90 if the temperature never falls below 10 deg C (50 deg F).

    To improve shifting smoothness (particularly in cold weather), prolong transmission life and reduce driveline friction, I highly recommend a true synthetic oil as your refill of choice.

    Proceedure
    Begin by driving the car a few miles to bring transmission oil up to operating temperature or start the process after a run - oil drains more completely and rapidly, and flushes out more foreign matter when it's hot.

    Choose a fairly level surface and either ramp the car or jack it up and place jack stands under the frame rails. Make sure the car is in gear and emergency brake on. I prefer ramps as less equipment and time is involved.

    Open the hood and remove the air intake snorkel (the FSM labels it the fresh air duct) by unscrewing (using either the ratchet and 10 mm socket or the 10 mm box wrench) the 2-flanged nuts that hold it in place. Release the catch that locks it to the air box intake tube and pull it up to free it from the car, then lay it aside in a safe place. This will give easy access to the transmission when using the funnel and tube.

    Taking with you the oil drain pan, the ratchet or breaker bar, and the 23 mm socket (or alternatively a 23 mm box wrench), slide under the vehicle and locate the drain and fill/level plugs. The drain plug is towards the rear of the transmission, offset to the driver's side and points straight down. The fill/level plug is towards the front of the transmission and offset to the passenger side and points forward at a slight downward slope. The two plugs are identical in appearance and should be easy to locate - if the 23 mm socket fits - you've found them. Position the drain pan under the drain plug, remove the fill/level plug to prevent the transmission from becoming air bound while draining, and then remove the drain plug. The oil will be hot and can burn you, so be careful.

    Now, return topside to the engine bay, take funnel and tube in hand and position it in the engine bay so that the funnel is near the radiatior and the tube angles down toward the transmission. Allow sufficient time for the transmission to fully drain, replace the old sealing washer on the drain plug with the new one, and go back underneath with your torque wrench in hand. Tighten the drain plug to the FSM recommended setting of 29 to 43 ft/lb (40 to 58 N-m). As always, I torque to the midpoint (36 ft/lb).

    Look for the tube dangling down from the funnel above and insert the tip into the fill hole as far as it will go. FYI, my fill system consists of a funnel ~ 5" (127 mm) long from rim to outlet, with connected tube ~ 14" (356 mm) long for a total of ~ 19" (483 mm). The tube O.D. is ~ 15/32" (12 mm) just right to easily slip into the fill orifice. Any setup roughly equivalent to these dimensions should be fine for the fill process. This seems to be a commonly available item at PEP Boys.

    Because the fill opening is at a downward angle, it looks like it won't accept the incoming oil without overflowing or spilling. Not to worry as this never happens. How do I know? Because I too was concerned about this so I stayed under the car and observed while either my wife or son poured the oil into the funnel. Never lost a drop. However, you never know and there always could be a first time so I always stay underneath, just in case. You should, too.

    The FSM calls for a fill of 2.83 qts (2.68L). Since 2.83 qts = 2 qts, 26 fluid oz, and 2.68L = 2L, 680 ml, and I like to be exact, this is where the measuring cup is employed. After putting 2 qts into the transmission, I use the cup to add precisely 26 oz more to the fill. Likewise, after 2L, the cup can be used to measure out the remaining required 680 ml. Anality rules. Although I know of some who simply dump in the whole 3 qts, I don't recommend this practice. We're never sure how much oil remains in the transmission after a drain (car not being absolutely level) and it's just possible that a full 3 qts refill could overfill the transmission enough to blow seals. If you do it my way I guarantee you'll never have that type of problem.

    If you've added the factory specified amount, when you remove the tube from the fill hole, you'll notice no overflow occurs. I see this as confirmation that we added the correct amount since when the car is leveled the oil should flow forward slightly and rise higher, perhaps level with the opening. Replace the sealing washer on the fill/level plug, and tighten it to the same specs as required for the drain plug. Remove the funnel and tube from the engine bay and the drain pan from underneath the car. Reinstall the snorkel in the opposite manner from which it was removed. The FSM calls for the mounting nuts to be tightened to 69.5 to 95.4 in/lb (7.9 to 10.7 N-m) but since that equates to 5.8 to 7.95 ft/lb just snug up the nuts and be done with it.

    Return the car to earth, and you're finished.

    Happy Motoring!

    Photos (note, the blue bar seen in the last photo is an aftermarket, not an OEM, item):
    1. Car on ramp
    2. Funnel/tube and removed snorkel
    3. Funnel positioned in engine bay
    4. Location and appearance of drain plug; fill/level plug has identical appearance
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 01-24-2012, 12:05 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    An Alternative Method

    When therieldeal read the original post he made the following comment:

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by therieldeal
    one thing i'd like to add:

    if you have a known level surface (cement garage floor, etc) you do not need to measure the oil you're refilling with. simply take the car down off the ramps/jackstands, and fill it until oil overflows out of the fill hole. it is designed at the appropriate fill level.

    obviously if you have some sort of weird suspension setup that makes one end of the car significantly higher than the other this wont work... but in most cases it works just fine.


    Frankly I hadn't thought of this method but it's a good one. Since the car is level it guarantees that all the old oil is drained and the new oil can be added until it starts to flow out the fill/level hole, ensuring that the exact factory specified amount of oil is added. It also enables one to dispense with the measuring cup. However, it would require raising and lowering the car a few times since it has to be up to work on the plugs and leveled to drain and be refilled. Consequently I'd use a jack and jack stands under the frame rails, instead of ramps, since I wouldn't want to start the engine to drive on and off the ramps with a dry transmission.

    The choice is yours.

    Where's a pit or a lift when you need it?

    Happy Motoring!
    Last edited by goldstar; 05-29-2011, 12:18 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      Changing M/T Oil with Front Lower Arm Tie Bar Installed

      This material applies only to vehicles with an aftermarket lower arm tie bar installed.

      The Problem
      The proceedure is the same as in post #1 (or post #2) until you get to drain plug removal. The tie bar passes almost directly underneath the drain plug and so close that it's impossible to fit the 23 mm socket on the hex head, let alone a socket and a torque wrench head, because of lack of clearance. The drain plug can be easily removed, and reinstalled with a 23 mm standard length box wrench, but then torquing it to the factory specs is not possible. What are our options?

      Solutions
      1. Before changing the transmission oil, remove the tie bar. Use the socket and torque wrench as needed. Afterwards, reinstall it. I think not.

      2. Say to hell with it and just tighten the drain plug until it "feels" right to you. After all, with a little practice, most of us should be able to estimate 29-43 ft/lbs (40-58 N-m) accurately enough. BTW, for those of you who go this route, Craftsman sells a nice 21 x 23 mm 12 pt. box wrench, standard length (12 11/16") for only US $15.99.

      Interestingly, although I've had a Snap-On 22 x 23 mm 12 pt. box wrench for some time, apparently they no longer make a box with a 23 mm opening. They do make 23 mm combo wrenches, however.

      Torque, and the world torques with you; estimate, and you're on your own.

      Happy Motoring!

      Photo showing 23 mm box wrench placed on drain plug illustrating lack of clearance.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by goldstar; 05-29-2011, 12:16 AM.
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment


        #4
        Oil Change Interval

        There is no specified, or recommended, transmission oil change interval in the FSM. For a daily driver, 30,000 miles (48,000 km) seems to be the generally accepted interval, by consensus, on most Protege forums.

        My Mazda dealer also recommends an oil change every 30,000 miles and schedules it as part of the normal 30,000 mile maintenance (and multiples thereof).

        For a car used on the track, the strip or for auto X, more frequent changes might be in order.

        Happy Motoring!
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment


          #5
          One thing I'd add if you don't mind: aside from allowing the tranny to breathe while draining the oil one should always completely remove the fill plug first in case there's a problem...you don't want to drain the transmission only to find out you can't get the fill plug off for some reason.

          Other than that, great writeup. Just finished doing this myself and having the exact amount on hand made filling it a snap. Someone obviously didn't take care of it before; the drained oil was thin and nearly black....compared to the new oil that was amber and thick (obviously a bit thicker since it wasn't just used).

          Comment


            #6
            I don't mind (good idea) and thanks for your kind words.

            Happy Motoring!
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

            Comment


              #7
              when I went to buy manual transmission oil, the guy at the store warned me about buying GL-5 oil with sulfur in it, as it would potentially damage synchronizers with brass components. any truth to that? They did not have any GL-4, other option was full synthetic, at 20$ per quart!

              Comment


                #8
                Ok, I found your thread from a few years ago about no yellow metals in Protégé transaxle, so either GL-4 or GL-5 are ok. That clears that up.

                Comment


                  #9
                  any difference between gear oil and manual transmission oil?

                  Is this what I'm looking for?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    goldstar stickied this thread regarding manual transmission oil: http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/show...cifications-BJ

                    to answer your question; on the protege manual transmission, the manual transmission oil is your standard gear oil just in the specific weights 75W-90 or 80W-90 depending on your climate. mobil 1 gear oil is compatible. i'd recommend a quantity of 3, 1-qt bottles for a complete drain and fill.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      beware! The gear oil smells terrible. My wife complained for weeks when I drained mine.....guess I should not have kept the old stuff around so long. Just FYI :0

                      Comment

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