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    Can't Pass Inspection - OBD

    From what I've seen through searches this seems to be a common problem, what I haven't been able to find yet is a solution. When I went for my emissions inspection I have 3 sensors failing because they indicate not ready, I need 2 or less to pass. I tried driving lots of miles, that doesn't do anything. I also tried a generic drive cycle reset:

    1. cold start, idle at 2500rpm for 15 seconds then 4000 rpm for 15 seconds

    2. run at 55mph in 5th gear for 1 minute, then come to a stop.

    Which also didn't change anything. Would disconnecting the negative battery cable and stepping on the brake pedal to reset everything be of any help? I'd like to find a cheap solution before resorting to a shop if at all possible. I have a 1998 Protege 1.5L that runs like a dream except for this problem. Thanks

    #2
    Disconnectiong the bettery will reset it, but not permanently, the codes will come back. Have you taken it to Autozone (or whatevers near you) to have the codes cleared? That's what I did with mine ('98 Protege 1.5) before I had it inspected and it stayed clear. The fault for me was a bad O2 sensor, which I ended up replacing a few months later even though the light never came back on.

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      #3
      Originally posted by irishkev90 View Post
      Disconnectiong the bettery will reset it, but not permanently, the codes will come back. Have you taken it to Autozone (or whatevers near you) to have the codes cleared? That's what I did with mine ('98 Protege 1.5) before I had it inspected and it stayed clear. The fault for me was a bad O2 sensor, which I ended up replacing a few months later even though the light never came back on.
      He's not having codes I think, just the sensors are not doing it. I have very little experience in sensors that won't 'ready' themselves.
      1997 Protegé ES: The Power of BP

      Broke Status FTW!

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        #4
        Originally posted by Henchman View Post
        He's not having codes I think, just the sensors are not doing it. I have very little experience in sensors that won't 'ready' themselves.
        Oh. Then I have no idea, lol. Sorry.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Kpassa View Post
          From what I've seen through searches this seems to be a common problem, what I haven't been able to find yet is a solution. When I went for my emissions inspection I have 3 sensors failing because they indicate not ready, I need 2 or less to pass. I tried driving lots of miles, that doesn't do anything. I also tried a generic drive cycle reset:

          1. cold start, idle at 2500rpm for 15 seconds then 4000 rpm for 15 seconds

          2. run at 55mph in 5th gear for 1 minute, then come to a stop.

          Which also didn't change anything. Would disconnecting the negative battery cable and stepping on the brake pedal to reset everything be of any help? I'd like to find a cheap solution before resorting to a shop if at all possible. I have a 1998 Protege 1.5L that runs like a dream except for this problem. Thanks
          It sounds like what you mean is that the car has not completed its on board tests.Which tests are still pending?
          Powered by ACME

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            #6
            Originally posted by Beerizfood View Post
            It sounds like what you mean is that the car has not completed its on board tests.Which tests are still pending?
            I just checked my inspection report and all it says was that it failed the readiness test. When they have the reader hooked up it gives 3 not ready codes, I shall have to go back and have them run it again so I can get the specific ones that aren't resetting.

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              #7
              Good idea,let me know which tests are not done.
              There may be nothing wrong other than the car needs more time
              to run the tests.
              Some tests take exacting conditions to run and complete.
              The two drive cycles you mentioned are not the be all/end all of
              testing conditions.
              Did you have an engine light on?
              Powered by ACME

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                #8
                No engine lights are on. The 3 that keep coming up as not ready are the catalytic converter, O2 and EGR.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Kpassa View Post
                  No engine lights are on. The 3 that keep coming up as not ready are the catalytic converter, O2 and EGR.
                  It sounds to me that there is more driving needed tbe done to allow the cars computer to finish testing.
                  Sometimes it can take a long time for a driver to meet all the required test cycles.Each test is done under different conditions.
                  Each test will be completed one after another,if you disconnect the battery then the sequence begins all over again .
                  Ill see if i can dig up some info .
                  Powered by ACME

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                    #10
                    Well I called the dealer today because I have Friday off and figured they could reset everything for me. They told me not to bother because there is nothing they can do

                    He said all I can do is keep driving and he said he's seen instances where it took over 1000 miles to restart itself. So now my tag is expired and the only way I can fix it is to drive around with my expired tag and hope they don't tow me if I get stopped.

                    I'm going to the tag office tomorrow to see if they will give me a letter. I've done everything I can, this really sucks.

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                      #11
                      OBD II and OBD i, 95 Protege does not give codes

                      Hey There,

                      Not sure if this is the right thread, but my 95 protege wont pass smog either.

                      I have tried shorting the Gnd and TEN, but the Check engine light will not blink. Does anyone know why this will not work?

                      I have power to the OBDII port, as I measured 5-6Vdc. Does anyone know of any other tricks?

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                        #12
                        ^^ zombie thread! This thing is over a year old...
                        2011 BMW 128i 6 Speed Manual -- dd
                        1990 Protege 4WD 5 Speed

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                          #13
                          If the OBDII scanner consistently shows the ECU not being "ready" it could be a bad ECU. Whenever I reset my 97 Protege it only took about 100 miles or so for all the conditions to be set for all those "readiness" tests to conclude.

                          Sounds like to me your ECU isn't storing data. Otherwise you should be throwing codes for bad sensors.

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                            #14
                            The drive cycle method also works on the 3rd gen Proteges as well. I was having a helluva time trying to get the monitors to engage on a 2003 Protege DX (2.0L). As a last ditch effort I applied the drive cycle reset method and it worked and the car passed inspection.

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                              #15
                              I recently went thru the hassle of readiness monitors that would not reset. I used the factory manual and the 4 different drive modes listed in it. It has a flow chart showing which drive modes to use for the specific monitors.
                              Unfortunately, I got stalled at having three monitors that would not reset. Sometimes a drive mode has to be repeated a couple of times, not just once.

                              Here is the run down on the monitors:
                              You have several 'continous' monitors and several 'non-continuos' monitors. 'Continous' means the monitor is watching all the time and 'non-continous' means that it sends data sometimes (probably under very specific conditons). According to the info I found, when being inspected, you are allowed to have two non-continous monitors not ready, but all contimous monitors must be working. Even if your check engine light is off, you do not get an automatic pass, a minimum number of the monitors have to reset.

                              I was pulling my hair out as the Mazda drive modes were not doing the trick. I did some searching and found a Volvo site with a different drive mode listed. I figured I might as well give it a try. It worked. I don't remember the drive mode specifics, but what made it really different is that it is specified that you coast down to 20 mph speed up and maintain a certain speed for 'x'-number of minutes (or seconds) and then coast to a stop. Not brake, but actually coast to a stop. I'll see if I can find that drive mode for future reference.

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