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    FE DOHC 2.2 project

    Hello. I've got an engine build I've been working on... for far too long really, but still going strong. I've had a dream of building a 2.2 liter DOHC engine and after I got a steady job I got things rolling. I also had a 626 Wagon that had a pretty old and tired turbo DOHC, and wanted to have a replacement engine for that.

    December 2007
    I purchased an R2 crank from a wrecker. The R2, for those not "in the know", is a 2.2 liter version of the RF diesel, which itself is a derivative or the FE gas engine. Thus the dimensions are identical to the FE engine, but the crank is invariably forged, unlike the usually cast FE cranks.



    The differences in the crank are: The flywheel bolt pattern is 8-bolt instead of 6-bolt, the oil pump is driven by splined gear instead of keyed shaft (Diesel oil pump is better, but unfortunately can't be made to fit the FE block) and, unknown to me at the time, a considerable difference in oiling channel arrangement that needed to be taken care of.

    February 2008

    The Tragedy Block
    I picked up the engine from the storage (it had been stored the for 10+ years). I was SUPPOSED to be a dry storage room, but this is how the engine looked:



    So, obviously it had been in contact with the water. Not a promising start, but for a while, thing looked good, the bottom end was in good shape:


    Unfortunately, the feeling sank immediately I got the head off:



    The cylinder were rusted through. The pistons didn't even budge; only after going through the cylinder walls with rotary brush and then leaving the cylinders filled with chloric acid over a weekend released the piston! (and then only by pounding them with a mallet and a wooden peg). With slim hope of rescuing the block, it was crated and shipped to the machinist to be inspected.

    The Head Trauma
    Actually, things went a lot better with the head. I knew it wasn't cracked, it had never suffered detonation, and obviously, not rusted. It did look quite nasty at the first glance, though. Here's the deal:


    After some scrubbing with a toothbrush-sized brass and nylon brush and heavily alkaloid cleaning solution, the head looked like this:


    I knew the HLA's were dirty and needed cleaning. A price for one was 120$ at the dealer, so I decided to service the old HLA's; service manuals say not to, but I did. The HLA bucket comes apart with a few deliberate bangs on a wooden surface, and here's how they they were:


    The HLA's were filled with sludgy oil, those probably would have ticked like hell in use. I used a jeweller's ultrasonic cleaner to clean out the parts with water and the alkali detergent (instructions tell to use one part of soap to fifty parts of water... I used fifty-fifty ) and here's how they turned out:



    In all, the process took me about 45 minutes in total. Ofter buzzing the parts in the cleaner, I used a hot air gun to heat up the parts, gave a good spray of CRC-556 (the same as WD-40 really) to prevent any remaining water to cause rust, and reassembled them. Back then I planned to use original cams, so I didn't treat the bucket tops, instead I just arranged them in order I could put them back into the head in the same order.

    March 2008

    Blockbuster
    I took the block to the machinist and the block was basically sentenced to death at the spot, not to my surprise. The end result was grim; after 0.25mm oversize, the rust pores were basically intact. There was no way the 0.50mm overbore would've cured the problem, the pores probably ran all the way through.

    pretty fly...wheel
    I wanted to have an alloy flywheel for the engine, since the old one was unusable due to bolt pattern differences and the diesel flywheel weighed like heck. I commissioned a local parts machining shop to make me one.



    I spent the month cleaning parts in alkali bath.

    April 2008

    New Block
    As soon as I received a new block, I sent it to the machinist. The problem was I hadn't gotten my pistons yet, so he couldn't bore it yet.

    Now, since I was building a stroker with 8mm longer stroke, I couldn't use stock pistons. There was a bulk buy going on at the time for SCAT rods (which is slowly moving on this site, now, as I'm writing this) which ended in a big ball of drama. Since those were for the stock rod length, (150mm), I was looking for pistons with 32mm compression height. Nissan SR20DET pistons did fit the bill on that repsect, but since they didn't have valve pockets and were meant for 2.0 engine, they gave too high compression ratio. I had to specify my very own pistons and for that I started dealing with Wiseco dealer.

    The Flywheel
    In the last days of the month, I received my alloy flywheel, and that did look great:



    It had quite a few problems still, but those came up much later. As May started to press on, I was pretty sure I wasn't going to meet August 2008 goal for this build...
    Last edited by STW; 02-28-2010, 03:51 AM.

    #2
    Ahh I see you made it over to ClubProtege. What ever happened to that bearings brace?

    1993 Mazda Familia GTR - work log

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Crazy Drummer69 View Post
      Ahh I see you made it over to ClubProtege. What ever happened to that bearings brace?
      It's in a development limbo right now, I don't have proper woodworking facilities (!) to finish the molding patterns in acceptable quality and I'm *quite* broke right now (out of job since October) so it's a quite uncomfortable situation. I will get back to it once things get better.

      Comment


        #4
        Yeah I know the feeling. Lemme know when that's alive again, I need one as well, stroked FE3 ftw

        1993 Mazda Familia GTR - work log

        Comment


          #5
          Summer 2008

          By now the pace started to slow down significantly. I made a modification to the VICS system; instead of the VICS plenum being fed by other runners, I opened it up to the main plenum.



          I needed to get a new vacuum reservoir to drive the VICS butterflies but that was not a big issue.

          I bought an aluminium drinking bottle for vacuum reservoir, it's neat and has machined threads so it'll make a neat piece.

          I had ordered a lot of stuff at this point. During april and may, I ordered these items: ACL Duraglide 780 bearings, VR6 valve springs, Fidanza 6-puck clutch and pressure plate, and Wiseco pistons. What I learned from that experience is that when the delivery time is estimated, "weeks" actially mean "months". You might do builds within few months of time in American Hot-Rod, but when you aren't in a reality TV, the actual reality tends to be a whole lot different.

          Well, the goods arrived eventually, far too late for me to get to work on them during the summer. So DIY was the word. One thing I did was dress up the parts, The valve cover had been flaked and weathered, so I gave it a whole new look with VHT wrinkle paint:



          The paint took several weeks to dry completely, but after that I got to polish out the letters and ribs on the valve cover:



          In all, there wasn't much to do. I started receiving bits during the summer, first the VR6 springs:


          (VR6 on the right.)

          later, the clutch:

          Arrival of the clutch revealed the first problem with the clutch. The cuts in the original crest weren't there just to save weight or for ventilation, but to clear the pressure plate spring straps. Thus I had to take the flywheel (and the clutch) back to the machine shop and have it altered. The good thing was I originally *did* specify the flywheel to have the cuts but the machinist decided not to do them on his own, so I didn't have to pay a thing for them.



          Finally, the bearings. Among several other items, these were considerably cheaper than OEM parts, perhaps the most. There was an interesting issue when ordering the bearings, the ACL manual didn't specify whether to have bearings for engine with oil squirters or without. The difference is the one without squirters have oil holes for the oil channel in the rod, while with squirters you don't need them. It wouldn't have mattered to me much (since DOHCs have squirters), but on a SOHC engine mixing those up would be bad.

          All this while the block, head and crank were at the engine machine shop, there wasn't anything I could do with them. I did have a cracked head and the ruined block on which to pattern things but in all, things went really slowly.

          Comment


            #6
            more more!!!
            ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

            1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




            I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
            he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

            Comment


              #7
              ask and you shall receive :D

              October 2008

              Suddenly, Wiseco. Four of them!

              October started out great. The Fidanza cam gear deal was doing magnificently, and the wisecos finally arrived! In this thread it happens within a few posts, but in real life, it took six months for the pistons to arrive! Oh how I am not going to put a single wiseco sticker on my car for that one. Well anyway, the pistons were great. They had xylan coated skirt, lateral gas ports, blow-by gas trap (it should improve 2nd ring performance, anti-detonation grooves, floating pistons and of course, the exact piston dish volume and valve pockets I specified. Superb product even if their delivery time sucked. Then again, summer is always bad in that respect.



              Here's the specification blueprints for the pistons, and an actual piston. We ordered those calling them MAZFE22T865, but I don't know if Wiseco picked it up

              I also picked up four stick coils from a busted Toyota Yaris Verso, 2NZ engine. I tried them with my original aftermarket ECU for the wagon, but at least with that thing they wouldn't work properly. The engine would idle fine, but splutter and stall under tiniest load. I still need to figure those out. Here they are, anyway:



              November 2008

              Rods. The bulk buy went completely belly-up after certain rather badly handled affairs, and thus I was left without the set of chromoly SCAT rod forgies I was so looking forward to. I contacted a local manufacturer for a set, not particularly affordable but held at very very high regard in the business. The finnish domestic metal shop "PO-Metalli" agreed to do a single number set, but the price was the same for one rod the bulk buy had for the entire set (For reference, I also contacted a titanium rod manufacturer, and their price for one was the same it was for the set of the four domestically produced steel rods. Interesting multiplication behavior.)

              This time, the delivery date was set at two weeks, and sure enough it kept to a day. Given one day for postal service delay, I owned these:


              Right after that I sent the pistons for the machinist so he could begin to work on the block. (which, at this point, had been lying at his shop for 9 months.)

              I also started looking for new valves. I was initially looking for Subaru valves, but they were quite a bit too large for the head, si I resorted to the well-known option, VG30DETT valves (or Nissan 300ZX v6). They match in almost every detail except their valve keepers, which were much shallower. At first I just ordered exhaust valves. They were Ferrea F1850p, 30.5 (1.5mm oversize) super alloy valves.

              The third quest was for the fasteners. I needed flywheel bolts, head studs and main studs. There had been some controversy over which head studs would fit the FE engine, and the parts supplier suggested I tried Mitsu 4g63 studs, as they had a paper that said it had 10x1.5 and 10x1.25 threads. Actually it had 10x1.25 on both ends and thus they didn't fit. Fortunately, since this was agreed as a test fit, I could return them with full reimbursement (I kept the money in for the purchase of the actual head studs later.) Flywheel bolts were a stocked item, so those arrived in a couple of days.

              Upos receiving the bolts, a second problem with the flywheel emerged. The machinist had done the holes for 10mm bolts, but the actual bolts were 12mm. Not a problem, since again, the 10mm decision was done on the machinist's own discretion, and didn't set me back at all. HOWEVER, when the holes were enlarged, it was obvious the machinist had ALSO messed up the bolt pattern diameter! Now the holes needed to be bored to 2mm oversize and offset and sleeved. Such a note ended November 2008.

              December 2008
              The alarming signals from world economy had been going on for months and I was on a spending spree with no end in sight. I had to buy a new daily driver car too! (the old Wagon suffered too much from the winter wears). The flywheel issue got more and more messed up. The machinist had made sleeved inserts, but the inserts weren't flush with the flywheel deck anymore! Had I bolted that on, the bolts would've only threaded to half way, and the clutch disc would've interfered with the bolts! At this point I decided not to take it to the parts shop anymore, but the engine machinist who then fixed it properly. It was a sad comedy in the purest.

              Well anyway, the valves arrived. They too were pretty as a picture, but there was a problem; the Mazda valve keepers had a huge retaining ridge, far larger than the groove on these valve. I had originally planned on having the grooves machined to fit the mazda keepers, but the machinist held off this idea as too risky and instead urged to find a solution that didn't involve machining the valves.



              The year 2008 ended in mixed feelings. The engine nowhere near the condition I had planned and with very bleak financial prospects in sight for the year 2009. I loved the new parts going into the engine, and had most of the expensive stuff taken care of. One of my goals was to have no bottlenecks nor vastly over engineered parts which I think I was consistent with.

              Comment


                #8
                what about 2009???? you know i want more
                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                Comment


                  #9
                  Had some connection problems yesterday, but here goes...

                  January 2009
                  I rethought the decision to keep original valves, as they weren't in top shape anymore, and since I was going to go for oversize exhaust valves, a matching set of intakes seemed like a good idea.

                  Also, the set of cam gears arrived in the final days of the month. from the bulk buy deal that went on right here in this forum!


                  Great many thanks to bpt323 for handling the deal, and the builders who participated!

                  February 2009

                  Some nice things happened this month. I ordered a steel gasket from gaskets-to-go, and in few weeks the gaskets did arrive.


                  Concerns were expressed if it was the FWD layout gasket or RWD from Kia, but sure enough, it was the FWD as specified. I saw no problems with the dimensions or finishing, so thus far it seems like a quality piece!

                  Also, later in the month the Ferrea intakes arrived. Things sure move faster in the winter!

                  1.5mm oversize, thinned shank and almost exactly to the Mazda size! Things really started to roll on the machine shop.

                  The valve keeper issue began to press on. The valves accepted CA18, SR20 and 4A-GE keepers, but these were so tiny compared to the mazda keepers, they went right through the Mazda retainer. The look was on for retainers that held the mazda springs and nissan/toyota valves.

                  March 2009
                  Pretty soon made another decision to fill the block. The cylinder wall thickness isn't all that great with FE engine, and it was a reasonable trade.off with noise and wear (pre-heat the engine and it's all much better).

                  I bought a set of 4A-GE valve keepers, and exhausted the toyota dealer supplies entirely from the whole country:D Hope there were no GT Corolla owners in immediate need of new keepers at the time... It was a pleasant deviation from the norm, dealing with OEM supplier; they told me getting the keepers would take a "long time", which was about four workdays.

                  A problem was discovered at the shop. The exhaust valves were shot, and needed to be replaced. None but the Mazda dealer had those, at truly exorbitant prices. The solution was found in BP DOHC valve guides, which were exactly the same diameter and used the same valve stem seal, but were 3mm shorter. No problem, it would give a small valve guide trim for free :D

                  Finally, at the last days of march, the block, the head nad the crank returned home, after being 13 months at the shop! The bill was pretty harsh, but the parts were absolutely worth a million.


                  The head was decked to accept the MLS gasket, valve seats were cut and radiused to match the new valves (the old seats had just enough area to suit the new valves and the ports were cleaned off from any casting imperfections. It really started to look like a high-performance part! Just comparing it to the Titanic shipwreck salvage part it was a year before makes it seem unbelievable.



                  The crank journals got polished and balanced with the flywheel. There wasn't much that needed to be done about balancing, it should be good up to 10k RPM now (of course it's not intended to run that high, it's just for the smoothness).

                  Since I had to scrap the original block and substitute with a new one, nothing major happened here, here's a a shot of the shiny deck:


                  At this point I got my first furlough notice (a temporary layoff, or non-paid leave). but fortunately I had the bills paid up.

                  April 2009
                  April went researching the valve retainer problem. The exhaust valve retainer from an Audi/ VW 20V engine seemed like a suitable candidate, but unfortunately it didn't quite fit the 4AGE keepers. It couldn't be machined either because it was hardened steel, so that didn't provide the answer.

                  Finally, I decided to go for the Honda B18 retainers. It had a 4.5mm valve shank so it did need machining too, but titanium isn't too difficult to work with (similar to stainless steel), and the valve spring diameters were close enough. I tried to contact Ferrea about this several times, but they didn't answer to any of my contacts. Finally I just ordered a set of ...ferrea... retainers for the Honda B18 from the local retail shop and began waiting.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Summer 2009

                    The ARP stud deal had stalled many times and finally I contacted ARP themselves on the issue and got a prompt response. The part number drama about FE head stud got cleared right away; upon completion of the measuring form, I got the proper part numbers:

                    Stud: AU4.800-1LUB
                    Nut: 300-8308
                    Washer 200-8514

                    And that's directly from ARP.

                    I never asked the number for regular main studs, because I was seriously planning the journal brace, and due to it the head and main studs will be the same.

                    The summer went largely in no-cost operations on the engine. I got a bit of plastigauge from the machinist as a sort of bonus on the machinist operation so I checked the tolerances of the journals, and sure enough, they were right within the factory specs.


                    (obviously I went through all the journals and not just the first )

                    I also started working on painting the block. Even after hot tanking, there still seemed to be a bit of of crust on the block, so I went thgough it carefully with dremel (and kept the grinded spot oiled so it wouldn't billow abrasive particles around:

                    After I had cleaned and dried the block I put on several layers of engine primer:



                    After the primer had dried, I applied several layers of red VHT engine enamel, and after that, a good thick clearcoat.



                    The paint job turned out reasonably good, but I need to take care not to spill any gas or oil on it before the engine has actually run, only after that it has completely dried and cured to withstand hydrocarbons.

                    After painting, I started to fit the pistons. After referring the internets on how to do it, I got a few good points. First off, the piston ring needs to sit perfectly square and a few centimeres below the deck in the cylinder bore when measuring the end gap. It's easiest to achieve using a piston as the positioning tool, like this:



                    I referred to the little instructions sheet that came with the pistons, and decided to use a gap that's a bit large for street engine but below full race engine. With the blades I had meant I'd be using 0.45mm gap on the top ring and 0.5mm on the lower. I didn't have a ring filer so I used a standard diamond file, it took a while but the results weren't too bad.

                    The instructions I got stated the end gap measurements should be taken from top of the cylinder, from bottom of the cylinder and in the middle, but since I paid good money to have them perfectly square and cylinder, I only took it from the top. The top rings had barely 0.05mm gap straight out of the box, so had I skipped this step, it would've probably ended in immediate engine damage. The bottom rings actually had two that were at 0.5mm from the start, so that saved a bit of work.


                    Here's a good gap, everything sits tight and square in the cylinder, the leaf has just the right tension. If it didn't go all the way to the cylinder wall, the gap would be V-shaped and need more work.

                    Now, the Mazda WSM suggest rolling the rings on the piston while every engine build manual explicitly tells not to, so I went with the manuals and bought a ring expander for something like $15. After figuring out how to use it, it really made installing rings a joy!



                    Finished!


                    Getting C-clips in was somewhat tricky. I finally figured out to push the one end in, then help the other end with a miniature screwdriver and finally gently push the end into groove with a flat punch.



                    Installing the pistons went really straight forward. Using generously engine oil on the piston and the cylinder I used a ring compressor and tapped the piston in with the wooden handle of a hammer. At this point I sort of missed the scented motor oils(!) available in japan... not that I would EVER use them in a running motor, but it would make assembling stuff a lot more pleasurable, it sure wasn't an olfactory joyride.

                    However, after I had installed the pistons, a serious lubrication issue had been discovered at MX6.com; the diesel used fully grooved main bearings, while gas engines used semi-grooved for closer tolerances. The diesel crank only had simple drills through the journal, because it was always facing the oil groove; gas engines instead had cross drilled journals to ensure the proper lubrocation for rod big-end bearing throughout the crank revolution. Thus, similar cross drills had to be done on the diesel crank too. The machinist assured me it was no big deal; forged cranks had tough surface but rather malleable core. Well, we'll see about that in a later post.


                    I started serious work on the engine brace, A wooden mockup was made to indicate any clearance issues; with the 86mm crank, clearances were abundant. The design finalized into this:


                    Now, since I had just taken the crank into shop again, I couldn't check it with 94mm crank. However, the clearances were so great no great difficulties were expected.

                    I spotted a tiny corroded spot on one the lobes of my exhaust cam, and that made the decision on whether to regrind very simple. (you know how an almost cosmetic blemish on the exhaust makes it a must to regrind the intake into a whole new spec...) So I took the cams to another machinist, who was specialized in valve train modifications. At the same time, my Ferrea retainers arrived.

                    Much sexier and lighter too :D

                    I sent a valve, keepers. the retainers and a stock valve stup for the machinist along with the cams.

                    in the late summer, my studs finally arrived, a teaser fit here:

                    Comment


                      #11
                      September 2009
                      I got my cams and valve retainers back early in the month. I was planning to build the head right up, but then got thinking about past experience about stripped threads on the earlier engine and decided to wait for a bit to think about helicoiling the exhaust studs. Many people have commented they don't strip easily, but they did for me, and I'd rather go for nine while the head is on a shop table rather than one when the engine is in place. The problem was the bench drill I had didn't have enough depth to mount the head, so the thought got sort of left hanging...

                      One thing I did though is I serviced the oil pump.


                      The parts looked quite good right from the start, no issues can be seen here.


                      The outer rotor clearance was fine.


                      The rotor tip clearance was excellent too, right on the factory specs.


                      Now, this shot left me wondering. It seemed fine, but now I think I might have bended the aluminium rule just so slightly to get a false reading. I perhaps should go in and check it with a steel bar. The good thing is axial play can be cured with home tools.

                      I also began building the mold patterns for the enginge brace, here's the process.



                      I made the most complex bits with SLS rapid modeling, a company that makes these is working in the same premise our office is at, and we have close collaboration, so it was an easy step ;D Then I used primer and sanding to smoothen the surface a bit (SLS parts are somewhat rough), and filled the hole, I was going to make molds out of this and the hole would've just made things more difficult. The hole is actually inded just to bolt the pattern bit into the pattern base, it's not a feature in the cast part. Finally, the pattern bit was attached to the mold box (I used a cabinet drawer. Perfect size.)


                      After the pattern bit was secured in the mold box, I used RTV silicone for it. This was not the optimal choice, it's meant for tin casts, it's a bit too expensive, and much too hard. Nevertheless, it did it's job. The white oval mold was first intended to be used for both bits, but the drag half got a bit screwed up so I had to redo that mold.


                      I then made five copies from clear polyester resin for the brace caps. They need trimming so they are all the same height (the mold filling wasn't consistent) and then they will be attached to the cope and drag pattern boards. I haven't quite finished the boards but it's not an awfully far away either.

                      October 2009
                      The sheet hits the fan again as I was put on a new furlough again, and this time with much much worse prospects than in March. (sure enough, I managed to get almost full pay from the April, spent July on summer vacation and got called back to work in August). So, that sucked major butt.

                      Anyway, I fitted the valve springs on the retainers that month. I used t grinding dtone on a mill to cut a tiny portion off the spring's lowest coil.


                      Using oil the grinding stone took away a tiny amount of material; the ground spring is on the left in the middle picture; there's hardly a lot gone. The retainer seats the spring with a click, which is enough clearance for me


                      I also bought a set of 3S-GE echaust studs, which are the perfect replacement if you need to replace your FE exhaust studs. They're the exact same size and shape, but the Toyota has a 6-pointed external torx head for easy assembly. Pluys they were a *lot* cheaper than Mazda parts. However, since I decided to use helicoils on this head, these went unused (for this build).

                      The crank with new oil channels arrived at the last days of the month. The machinist gracefully retracted his statement about forged cranks being relatively soft inside, and told it was the toughest, hardest to cut steel he had ever came across.



                      The crossdrillscame out pretty well, except for the one at the flywheel end, on that the drill started to veer a bit, and the hole grew a bit oblong. That's only a cosmetic issue though, It won't adversely affect the crank in any way.



                      November 2009 - December 2009
                      I had very little to do on this time period. The garage I was using (my dad's) had to store a whole heap of stuff from other places, so there was no room to work in, I had no money, and I had to spend hours at employment office and various re-employment programs to receive non-employment compensation (which sucks, anyway).

                      Comment


                        #12
                        January 2009

                        No progress.

                        February 2009
                        I got organized some space in the garage, and got an access to a pillar drill, so I got the exhaust manifold stud helicoiling done.


                        Here goes. The $1000 head in a $100 pillar drill. Exhaust ports were already taped up, after the first bore I drilled the deck too, to prevent any contamination or scratches from the shavings.



                        There, first hole drilled. the 10.5mm drill got just enough to leave faint marks of the original thread; a good thing, I suppose.

                        [

                        I had to get the tap perfectly straight and true for nine times, so I didn't risk with a handle, instead I put the tap on the drill chuck and turned it by hand. Aluminium is soft enough to be workes without extra handles on the chuck, and it was a fairly quick operation. Finally I used a #3 tap to bottom out the thread; if the helicoil tapered at the bottom, it would be BAD.


                        To my great relief, they all went in easily. I removed the stubs with a magnetized screwdriver, and tightened the coils with a bolt to ensure they all were properly seated in their grooves and the coil wasn't constricted at any point.



                        I got them all successfully coiled, and NOW I can perhaps focus on assembling the head!
                        Last edited by STW; 03-03-2010, 03:33 AM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Wow nice, that's true engine work right there.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            @RussianRed, thanks

                            Unfortunately, this month could've started out better. I was preparing to install the valve springs, but got a bit careless with handling the head, and this happened:



                            A scratch, right across the deck... not good. The scratch itself is very very shallow, but may lead to sealing problems eventually. I'll have it checked out by the machinist, and then we'll see what happens. This is another unfortunate delay and money issue, but what can you do? next time, I'll be sure to protect the surfaces more carefully with tape.
                            Last edited by STW; 06-04-2010, 01:40 AM. Reason: derrrp grammar

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Is this GC engine FE pistons are realy fit to FE3?
                              My BG Familia FE3 project full spec and plans.

                              www.mazdasgarage.com/forum/ New mazda tuning forum



                              1/4 mile drag with BP DOHC engine:

                              Reaction: 0,5771 (not so bad)
                              60 ft: 2,472 (good for conditions what was)
                              ET: 16,2411 (but was heavy wind from front and custom intake was just compleated in nigt and setings was worst than bad )

                              Comment

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