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    Improving the Gear Shift Mechanism and its Operation

    These articles were posted earlier but have since become submerged in the recesses of the forum. I have reposted them as part of a unified topic that, as such, should be more useful to our members interested in pursuing these mods.

    Polyurethane Transmission Stabilizer Bar Bushings

    These bushings only fit 1999 to 2003 Proteges and their variants (MP3, P5, and MSP). They will not fit earlier models which use a smaller diameter version.


    This polyurethane two-piece bushing set is meant to replace the one-piece OEM rubber bushing at the transmission end of the extension bar (the bar used to couple the shifter mechanism to the transmission housing, sometimes called the stabilizer bar), not the change control, or shift rod, which transfers motion from the shift lever to the shifting forks enabling gear changes to be made. In other words, it's similar to the pair of polyurethane bushings that KartBoy used to sell. It’s also similar to the nyloil (oil-impregnated nylon) bushing set that one of our members, Maz1.8T, previously sold on our Forum, along with the smaller diameter set for earlier Proteges. Currently, the nyloil bushings don’t seem to be in production. These are excellent bushings, BTW, and I currently have a set of four nyloils installed on my change control rod.

    I installed the KartBoy polyurethane bushings on my car some time ago and have written at length on the forums about the noticeably improved shifting response due to the more rigid coupling they provide between the two components. The increase in rigidity reduces play and wasted motion in the stick and improves the overall shifting experience.

    I strongly advise any 3rd gen owner to install a set even if no other shifting mod is contemplated. They are easy to install and well-worth their modest cost. If future mods in this area are planned, this is a good first step.

    Although no longer available from KartBoy, fortunately they are available from TWM Performance, and can easily be purchased from their website. The current cost is US $36.95. For purchase, go to:
    http://www.twmperformance.com/bushingkits/index.htm

    Corksport is another vendor who sells stabilizer bar bushings although they label them incorrectly as Shifter Bushings for Protege. They are Code: 99p-9-015 and the current cost is US $30. For purchase, go to:


    Happy Motoring!

    Photo 1: My spare set of KartBoy bushings. The TWM bushings are virtually identical in appearance.

    Photo 2: The polyurethane bushing set installed on my car. The bushings and the forward end of the extension bar are supported by a threaded stud screwed into the transmission case. The flanged fixing nut and the two large flat washers are OEM parts reused after removing the OEM rubber bushing, along with the sleeve placed between the stud and the bushings (invisible in the photo). The FSM torque setting for the flanged fixing nut is 28-38 ft/lbs (38-51 Nm).




    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 09-13-2011, 06:56 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    MP3 Shifter Installed
    About a year before this installation, I installed the KartBoy shifter bushings. These polyurethane bushings which replace the OEM rubber type, are installed in the end of the extension bar (also referred to as the stabilizer bar) that connects to the transmission. They work by more tightly coupling the transmission to the shift lever mechanism, eliminating a good deal of play enabling more precise shifting. I highly recommend them apart from any other shifter mod. These bushings are no longer available from KartBoy but comparable ones can be obtained from TWM Performance and CorkSport as indicated in post #1.

    However, I wanted a further reduction in play and a decrease in stick movement along with a more precise feel when changing gears. I did not want to install a short shifter for two reasons: First, I didn't want to unduly increase the force required to move the stick and second, I didn't want to shorten the life of my synchros.

    With the above factors in mind, I decided to replace my OEM shift lever with that from an MP3. Luckily, I was able to purchase one (with knob) from a seller on the msprotege Forum for US $50 + shipping.

    The MP3 shift lever is the same length below the fulcrum (pivot) point as stock but is over an inch shorter above the fulcrum. Thus, although the actual throws of the two levers remain the same, the MP3 lever produces a virtual shorter throw because its reduced length causes your hand on the lever to move through a shorter arc when shifting. The installation was straightforward and has been described several times on the various Forums. The standard boot can be reused.

    A true shortshifter on the other hand is longer than stock between the pivot point and the lower end that attaches to the change control rod. Thus, a given degree of hand movement above the pivot point equates to a greater length of travel below the pivot point resulting in more rapid gear changes. This is accomplished at the expense of less leverage leading to more force required to move the stick although to what degree is also determined by the length of the shortshifter above the fulcrum. It's also been suggested that replacing the factory shift knob with a super heavy stainless steel type may help to overcome the greater force needed to move the stick under these conditions. For more information, go to:


    For those seeking a shortshifter, one possible source is TWM performance. Their shifters are available for all 1992-2003 Proteges including the MP3, P5 and MSP. Their products seem to be of very high quality and they have a good reputation among the various forums.
    twmperformance.com is your first and best source for all of the information you’re looking for. From general topics to more of what you would expect to find here, twmperformance.com has it all. We hope you find what you are searching for!


    With the Kartboy bushings and the MP3 shifter, I really liked the results. Just about all the play was gone and shifting felt very precise. Shifts could also be made somewhat more quickly than before because of the reduction in hand movement. It felt like a whole new mechanism and as far as I was concerned, it seemed an ideal setup. IMO, the MP3 shifter choice is a good compromise mod, it quickens the shifting to some extent but does not overly stress the synchros because it is a factory setup.


    FYI, the MSP shifter is the same length as that of the MP3 so it could also be used as a replacement in the same manner. Keep in mind however, that the MSP shifter, along with all other Protege shifters, uses an M10 x 1.25 thread while the MP3 uses an M8 x 1.25 thread. Those of you plannning to acquire an MP3 shifter should also obtain the matching knob.

    Happy Motoring!


    Below, the MP3 shifter and knob installed (that's one nice ):
    Attached Images
    Last edited by goldstar; 09-22-2011, 07:23 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      MSP #3 Engine Mount Installed

      Thanks to TheMAN for providing the Forum with information about this mount along with the part number. His favorable report on the benefits obtained from installation on his car, reduction in wheel hop and improved shifting reponse, prompted me to do the same on mine. This is the mount located on the right (passenger) side of the car. It's the only mount that differs from the standard Protege engine mounts and is noticeably stiffer than stock. Also, it will only fit M/T 2.0 L cars. The part no. is: BP7H-39-06Y and it cost me US $168.90 at my dealer. It can be identified by the blue paint dot on the metal bracket as opposed to the white dot on the standard mount.

      Driving Impressions
      First, the steering seemed a bit tighter and more precise although I'm not exactly sure why that would be. In fact, cornering seemed to be somewhat improved particularly in transitioning from straights to corners.

      Second, wheel hop is virtually eliminated on launching from 1st, allowing for faster, smoother starts and making the car even more fun to drive than previously. Obviously, this will be a boon for those who plan to modify their engines.

      Third, with the stock #3 mount, when driving very slowly in 1st gear with the clutch fully engaged (as in slow-moving bumper to bumper traffic), my car used to buck and shudder at low rpms forcing me to slip the clutch to maintain some level of smoothness. This would occur until I reached a sufficiently high rpm at which point the engine would run smoothly. The situation is quite different with the MSP engine mount in place. Now, at low rpms, as long as I'm above stall speed, there is absolutely no bucking or shudder even under acceleration. It's so much easier to drive the car now because the difference is striking.

      Fourth, my shifting is already quite improved over stock with my MP3 shifter and Kartboy bushings but, with the new mount, there is a further reduction in play and wasted motion in the stick improving the overall feel of the shifting process. I attribute this to the increased stiffness of the mount reducing the relative motion between the shift lever and the transmission. As evidence for this, at idle, both the shift lever and engine vibrate a trace more than previously indicating a tighter coupling to the transmission. It's not bothersome to me and I only mention it to illustrate the difference.

      Since there are so many benefits to the stiffer mount and virtually no downside, I highly recommended this mod.

      Happy Motoring!

      Below is a photo of the installed MSP #3 engine mount:
      Attached Images
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment


        #4
        Change Control Rod Bushings

        The final improvement to the system involved replacing the 4-OEM rubber bushings located at the ends of the change control (also known as the shift) rod with nyloil types. One end of the rod connects to the shift lever and the other end to the shifting forks at the transmission housing. The nyloil bushings were manufactured by one of our Forum members, Maz1.8T, who originally offered them for sale here in a group buy in June, 2005. Go to:


        They were again placed on sale here in April, 2009. For a photo of the bushings (including the 2 for the stabilizer bar, as outlined in post #1, at the top of the photo) and more information, go to:


        As far as I can determine, that was the last posting Maz1.8T made here and the bushings no longer seem to be available. This is unfortunate as the product was of very high quality and there certainly seems to be a market for them as they fit all models of the Protege, not just the 3rd Gen. Sometime in between those two postings, I bought a set of 4 from pigeon (another ex-member of our forum) who had become a vendor.

        Fortunately, bronzoil (oil-impregnated bronze) bushings are available from CorkSport which are also a direct replacement for the OEM rubber types. They are code: Gen-6-955-10 and the current cost is US $35. For purchase, go to:


        Installation (Nyloil)
        I decided to replace the OEM bushings in two-stages, first at the transmission end and later at the shift lever end to see if a progressive difference occurred. Since the transmission is well forward in the vehicle, the changeout can easily be carried out using ramps, which I did. Locate the end of the change control rod and remove the M8 x 1.25 nut, bolt and lockwasher where it connects to the transmission. The bolt head takes a 12 mm wrench and the nut requires a 13 mm wrench. Remove the two OEM bushings from the rod and replace with the nyloils. Even though they're oil-impregnated, I coated them with Red Line synthetic grease before reassembly - just to be on the safe side. The FSM specification for the fixing nut is 12-16 ft/lbs (16-22 Nm) and no threadlocker is called for. On roadtest, there was a definite reduction in play in the shift lever but no apparent increase in stiffness of movement. Very good.

        A couple of weeks later I installed the nyloils at the shift lever end. Pay attention because this is a cautionary tale. To obtain sufficient clearance under the car it must be placed on jackstands under the frame rails. If you jack the car up high enough, you can slide the jackstands under the frame rails from the side of the car without going underneath until they're positioned. It's also helpful to place the stick into 4th gear to move the change control rod end as far forward as possible for wrench clearance. It's also necessary to remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold the heat shield in place, and pull it down to obtain working room. I followed the same proceedure as when changing the front bushings but found that at the recommended torque setting the stick bound up and was difficult to move, presumably because of the considerably harder bearing material. So I simply backed off the fixing nut until I was satisfied with the stick movement and went on my merry way after reattaching the heat shield (just snug up those bolts and don't overtighten). Don't forget to coat the heat shield bolt threads with anti-seize to make subsequent removal easier.

        Results
        The nyloil bushings made a significant difference in eliminating much of the remaining shifter play and vagueness, and produced a much more positive and direct feel when making gear changes. I felt that I finally had a shifter of which even a Formula 1 driver could be proud.

        Postscript
        Last summer, 2010, my wife and I were on vacation in Williamsburg in the beautiful commonwealth of Virginia, 350 miles from home, when the nut came off the bolt that connects the shift lever to the change control rod. Obviously my fault for not having tightened it sufficiently, and thinking I could get away with it - it's not nice to ignore factory torque specs. I have to shift the blame onto myself for this mishap. If you're interested in how I made an emergency repair, you can read about it at:
        http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?49631 posts 6 and 7

        On returning home, it was clearly time for a permanent fix so naturally I turned to our Forum members for the best advice. What transpired was an excellent tutorial and you can read their recommendations at:


        The option I chose was to replace the OEM lockwasher and nut with an M8 flatwasher (grade 10.8) and an M8 x 1.25 SS nylock self-locking nut. Both parts were obtained from:


        Referring to the above installation instructions, after removing the factory parts and replacing them with the new flatwasher and nylock nut, I held the bolt head with a 12 mm wrench and progressively tightened the nut with a 13 mm wrench until all trace of play disappeared from the shift lever, with no sign of binding. No threadlocker was used and because of the limited clearance I found it best to use short box wrenches to do the job. This is my current and, hopefully, final solution to the problem. So far so good but I'll keep you posted should anything unexpected occur. Right now, it shifts like an eel in oil.

        Happy Motoring!

        For Reference, Modified Photo of the Complete Set of 4-Nyloil Change Control Rod Bushings Taken from Maz1.8T's April 2009 Thread, Referred to Above.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by goldstar; 09-14-2011, 10:03 PM.
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment


          #5
          And Let's Not Forget ...

          Last but not least, if you've gone to the trouble of modifying your shift linkage make sure you switch to a true synthetic M/T oil. It puts the finishing touch on your installation and provides a further improvement in the overall shifting response. I use Red Line MT-90 and even before I modded my shift linkage it provided a noticeable difference in ease of shifting, particularly in the winter months. It's definitely the slick thing to do.

          Happy Motoring!
          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

          Comment


            #6
            I agree. Transmission fluid is something to never cheap out on, especially since it's not changed as frequent as engine oil.

            Also for people who are trying to source out "control rod bushings x 4" also known as shifter/shift link bushings they can order the proper 10mm ID bronzoil bushings from Corksport or spend some time with a digital caliper and out source some flanged bushings in the needed specifications (much cheaper option lol). I've had mine installed for 10k miles and used the locking nuts with nylon threading to ensure no vibrations will back them off. They only required a re-torque after about 1k miles after the bushings/linkage have settled in.

            You gain such a crisp response from the system afterwards, and I have less than a 1/4" of play at the shift knob no more guessing which gear it's in due to warn bushings!

            To add to this thread Goldstar, you may want to cross reference your shift knob experience since that is definitely an improvement to the operation of the system...but one again, job well done love reading your posts.
            -Jack

            ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

            91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
            http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

            01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

            91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
            http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for your kind words, Jack, and the additional useful information you provided.

              I did reference the article regarding the benefits of heavy shift knobs in post #2 but for those who missed it I'll repeat it here:


              Happy Motoring!
              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

              Comment

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