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    #16
    Originally posted by 808 View Post
    Buy a factory service manual. The best purchase you'll ever make along with the car.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-...sQ5fLiterature
    i was lookin and couldnt find one for the gtx... just the 323 will be missing quite a bit of info wont it? what year manuals for the 323 would be compatible?

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      #17
      Originally posted by crazycanadian View Post
      crank pully you can't swap.. the problem is such a major problem because its the key way in the crank that gets worn.. the only way to fix it is to replace the crank... you'll have to pull it apart and have a look at the crank..
      what do you think i should do? there was a slight wobble when it idled, should i just put the head back together with the fixed valves or while im in the motor get down to the crank now also? or would it be a better option to just swap in another motor? guessing it would be more expensive but im not sure?

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        #18
        will this give me everything i need to know?

        BF:
        - 1988 Mazda 323 Turbo Workshop Manual V1,0 (turbo only)
        - Complete 1988 Mazda 323 Rally parts manual
        - 1988 Mazda 323 Workshop Manual

        BG:
        - 1990 EA 4wd Workshop Manual
        - 1990 NoAm 4wd Workshop Manual
        - 1992 323 GTR Workshop Manual
        - 1992 NoAm Protege Workshop Manual
        - Engine Assembly
        - F5M-R Workshop Manual

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          #19
          The 88 323 workshop manual covers the turbo models only... really all you would need is the BF FSMs.

          1988 White GTX - #1 parts
          1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
          1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
          1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
          1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car

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            #20
            Originally posted by 808 View Post
            The 88 323 workshop manual covers the turbo models only... really all you would need is the BF FSMs.
            yea i looked through most of those pretty sure that covers everything i need. as far as the crank, what should i do and if i do replace is should i try and get a big nose and what car could i get it outta?

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              #21
              thinkin about pulling a crankshaft at the junkyard tomorrow... heard there is a miata there. what cars could i pull crankshaft out of that would work or be an upgrade? or stronger? thanks, trying to go the junkyard tomorrow.

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                #22
                I've looked at the yahoo archives, and there's still some ambiguity on whether or not the B6T crank was forged (and nitride journals), or if they were cast. Either way, just go grab a 27mm crank nose'd crank (and oil pump) and put it in.

                Here's some info:

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                  I've looked at the yahoo archives, and there's still some ambiguity on whether or not the B6T crank was forged (and nitride journals), or if they were cast. Either way, just go grab a 27mm crank nose'd crank (and oil pump) and put it in.

                  Here's some info:
                  http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html
                  alright, after readin that novel. i might just try and replace the bolt and key with some loctite. i think???

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                    I've looked at the yahoo archives, and there's still some ambiguity on whether or not the B6T crank was forged (and nitride journals), or if they were cast. Either way, just go grab a 27mm crank nose'd crank (and oil pump) and put it in.

                    Here's some info:
                    http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html
                    alright so i already have the large nose crank pulley on there. i can tell by the 8 slots in it. with that being said should i just replace the bolts with new ones and lock tite? and should i torque it to spec?

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                      #25
                      as far as the ticking.. my buddy tj who helped me get the block off says the ticking probably would not have come from the small amount of leakage in the valves. meaning we did a water test and 4 of the valves on cylinder 4 leak water, pretty slow but leak. he said im losing compression there but theres not a bent valve that we can see so he thinks it just needs to be cleaned. but if thats not the ticking then could it be the crankshaft or pulley?

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                        #26
                        IIRC, another way to determine the size w/o removing the crank pulley is to look at the four 10mm bolts and see if they are in a perfect square pattern, which would be indicative of the 27mm crank. A rectangular pattern would be 22mm crank nose (long and short).

                        Here's some more info (Note that the info also covers 22mm (long and short), 27mm cranks):



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                          #27
                          Originally posted by g3mccotter View Post
                          as far as the ticking.. my buddy tj who helped me get the block off says the ticking probably would not have come from the small amount of leakage in the valves. meaning we did a water test and 4 of the valves on cylinder 4 leak water, pretty slow but leak. he said im losing compression there but theres not a bent valve that we can see so he thinks it just needs to be cleaned. but if thats not the ticking then could it be the crankshaft or pulley?
                          Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLAs) are most likely the culprit. Change the weight of the oil and see what happens. Also might consider flushing the oil system out too (depending on the condition of the oil, age of engine, etc. etc.)

                          Lots of good info on the yahoo forum too.

                          Yet more info:


                          Last edited by BFMRGTX; 05-17-2010, 01:19 PM.

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                            #28
                            Also: Why is this posted in the "Non-US Model" forum?

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                              IIRC, another way to determine the size w/o removing the crank pulley is to look at the four 10mm bolts and see if they are in a perfect square pattern, which would be indicative of the 27mm crank. A rectangular pattern would be 22mm crank nose (long and short).

                              Here's some more info (Note that the info also covers 22mm (long and short), 27mm cranks):



                              http://www.miata.net/garage/LongNoseRepair/index.html
                              yea i have the long nose...
                              Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                              Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLAs) are most likely the culprit. Change the weight of the oil and see what happens. Also might consider flushing the oil system out too (depending on the condition of the oil, age of engine, etc. etc.)

                              Lots of good info on the yahoo forum too.

                              Yet more info:


                              http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=193131
                              hlas? would cause the ticking sound, i will check out the links see what i find out about that. its kinda putting us to a hault cause we were hoping we would find something that would look like it would cause a tick but since we havent we dont know what to do... i will check out the hla. getting the head heat bathed or whatever its called today to clean it. now i need to find a gasket set, possibly a beefier than stock head gasket. know of anywhere?
                              Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                              Also: Why is this posted in the "Non-US Model" forum?
                              i guess cause i saw gtx in the title and it was my year gtx...

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                                #30
                                read through those, makes sense. we were wondering where the shims were to adjust lifters. i dont know if i will take each lifter apart or try the twisty flush deal once its back together or maybe i should get the lifter heat soaked with my block. consist of acids that it sits in over night, one drawback is that i will lose the order they came out in... reading that info is a relief, thats a lot less of a problem than i thought. onto the crank pulley, prob pull it off today check out the bolts replace with loctite and see what happens once the car is running again... need to get my head gasket set now

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